Steve RA Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Have you used all one brand of primer ?? If so, and if you have any, try another brand. SRP or SP, either one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 here's a pic with the case cut in half I used to set the swaging depth. Is that not in enough? It is all the way to the shoulder on the swaging rod. When I go up any higher, it really forces the shellplate up. Appreciate everyone's help. Shannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Have you used all one brand of primer ?? If so, and if you have any, try another brand. SRP or SP, either one. Primers are federal match, small pistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 If you have something else, try them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD1 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 For skipping primers. Check blue orifice at bottom of primer tube , The threaded cap on the explosion cover. Snug it and back it off a quarter turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 the blue plastic tip? replaced that with a spare. Explosion cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Look at the difference between my before and after swaging photos. Note that is easy to see that the case on the right has the crip and the one on the left has been swaged. And yours. I can't tell one from the other. See that ring left in yours? That is the crimp that is still causing you problems. Forget your cross sectioned case and set the back up rod and swager so the crimp is gone. Edited January 18, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD1 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 sorry was trolling in a waiting room..... Big Blues term is Magazine Shield Cap 13957 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Guess I need to inspect my stuff better. Or sleep on it more. I'm pretty sure I looked at everything when I cleaned it and took it apart 3x this week--except the swage rod itself. Went to adust the swage rod even deeper as suggested, and it was all the way out. Looked at lot closer at rod and finally pulled out a flashlight, and noticed the rod was broken, not allowing any further adjustment. Here's a pic. Ordered a replacement this morn. $32 or so. One of the downsides of the 1050 in a non commercial use, paying for parts. But, when it is running good, I still love it. Tim was very helpful on the phone. I did not force it or anything, seems to have just failed. I don't force the last few inches of downstroke. Set off a primer once (smashed primer early on). and I am super careful to not force anything since. So dumb question, how much force is required for swaging properly? Is it kind of a "squishy" feel the last 1/2 inch or so of the stroke? Or is it a solid feel like normal without swaging? Ususally when I get that "squishy" feel last 1/2" of stroke, I know it is a GAP brass or small primer 45 shell, or something that needs exploring. Appreciate everyone's help and advice. Hope this fixes my issue. But to me the break is very clean and recent. I might not have had the swager adjusted deep enough previously, I was matching the pic in the manual as close as I could, but apparently that wasn't enough. For my understanding, I need to adjust it until the entire ring showing is gone? Thanks, Shannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 confirmed small primer tray (hadn't changed trays since loading about 10k of 40, but double checked anyway; http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/lockmup68/library/Dillion%201050 I was smashing primers until I realized I had left the large primer cup in the reloader instead of replacing it with a small primer cup. (Sorry if that's what you meant above - I'm not sure how to interpret what you said above). But, if you leave the large primer cup in, the primer gets lost in the cup, doesn't center properly, and smashes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) $32?!? That's how they afford to keep us 650 users supplied with free parts for life! Edited January 18, 2014 by Sarge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Yes, I had the small primer tray in there. Was not the large primer tray. confirmed small primer tray (hadn't changed trays since loading about 10k of 40, but double checked anyway; http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/lockmup68/library/Dillion%201050 I was smashing primers until I realized I had left the large primercup in the reloader instead of replacing it with a small primer cup.(Sorry if that's what you meant above - I'm not sure how to interpretwhat you said above).But, if you leave the large primer cup in, the primer gets lost in thecup, doesn't center properly, and smashes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 $32?!? That's how they afford to keep us 650 users supplied with free parts for life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 For my understanding, I need to adjust it until the entire ring showing is gone? Yes, like the first pic in #32 and your problem will be solved. Not sure how that broke but $32 is cheap compared to loading crimped primer pockets on a 650 as the results would have the same fail rate as what you have now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 More swage for sure. I do see deflection of the shell plate at the swaging station. But for my mil 9mm brass to prime properly that's what it takes me. And I still get 1 or 2 per 100 mill brass that the primer gets messed up. Slowing my pull rate down a little helped as well. It's for this reason, the priming difficulties, that I hate mill brass. I can get it for free and still choose not to use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 I do see deflection of the shell plate at the swaging station. Lower the backup rod/expander enough to take the load off of your shell plate and you will get better results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Less Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 As a 1050 owner with some smashed primers in the past, this thread has been gold. I hope you resolve your problem soon! Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevoTT Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Just when I thought I'd seen everything. Hope the new swage rod fixes your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) update: got the new swage rod in, installed, adjusted with cut in half case, ran some brass through, needed more to get the ring off, adjusted a bit more, ran a few more through, looked like another 1/4 turn up and it would be good, 1/4 turn more and slow pull on the handle and felt it give way and get real squishy on end of stroke. look down and swage rod broke in exactly same spot. It broke right above the threads of the bolt, not much material in there when you adjust it up. If I was really cranking down on it I could understand, but for a brand new part to fail in exactly the same place as the old one that I've run 20k rounds through (of 40 non mil brass granted, but shill used it). I'm thinking it is just a weak design. I ordered another new one from Dillon, and then took the two broken ones to my buddy who is an engineer over at that green tractor place, who also has a very nice machine shop in his garage, . I told him what was happening and measured the opening in the press where the swage rod fits into the cast base, which is 10.18mm wide opening. He cut the rod off just below the machined flat spot, turned a new piece for the bottom out to 10.1mm, and made it a 1/4" longer than the stock piece, welded it tup, tapped it deep and we found a new joint piece that has much longer threads, so the thread contact is very deep, more surface area on the threads and thicker material should be stronger. So it barely fits into the machined slot, but plenty of clearance to adjust up and down and cycle properly with the handle pull. I only had to adjust up a few turns to get it to swage properly, versus many turns up on the stock piece, and since it is a few mm thicker of material and much longer thread contact, should be good to go. I just ran 200 through with no problems and no cracking on the swage rod. So hope this fixes it. The new one I ordered from Dillon last week hasn't arrived yet (another $41 shipped) and he is going to fix my other broken one same way as a spare. Here's a pic of it in the press, you can see how it fills up the slot in the press versus the stock piece that has plenty of clearance on each side. It doesn't rub at all, but very little clearance. Edited January 29, 2014 by lockmup68 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Update 2: loaded 3-400 rounds this aft. Still spitting out/smashing 1-2/100, but that is a huge improvement over what it was, so I can live with that if needed. Now another problem has creeped in, the primer tray is now really "snapping" back to the stop, whereas it went pretty smoothly previously. I took it apart and cleaned it, made sure it slides freely in the channel, etc. By hand it moves freely. However, when I lower the arm down into it, when the handle comes up and the rod flows into the channel of the arm that moves the tray, the spring is taking up the pressure and then suddenly it snaps back. Any ideas? I did a search for snap primer tray, just primer tray, etc., but nothing was showing up. Getting there. Thanks, Shannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Post some new pics of your before and after swaging operation, now that you have it sort of working. For the snap, the arm might be binding, if everything else is smooth. Might try moving the clamp on the primer blast shield up just a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 here's a pic of non swaged and swaged now. Looks much better. I adjusted arm up and down, same snapping motion. I'm going to take entire thing apart again and clean it and see if I can figure out what it is hanging on now. Good news is I got through 800 rounds with the new modified swage rod. Working good. I've read about all the plate snapping and powder spilling, but I never had that problem with 40 and 45. However, with 9mm and Silhouette powder, the plate seems very snappy and I am going real slow. Spill powder if not very careful. I ordered the plastic ball and new roller bearing kit for it, see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD1 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Where are you in NC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmup68 Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Where are you in NC? Southern Wake County, SW of Raleigh. Have good buddy in Travelers Rest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD1 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Cool. . I have a friend in Kernersville but won't be up there till summer . I would come by and help get it right. But you will have her fixed by then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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