CAI-imported Grand Power K-100..?

[Stan-O]

Dave, are you loading 4.2gr for X-Cal or is it your estimate what should work for the shorter barrel of X-Trim?

[Canuck223]

Dave, are you loading 4.2gr for X-Cal or is it your estimate what should work for the shorter barrel of X-Trim?

That is the load I used in my GP6, but it's barrel was at least as tight as the X-Trim. I wouldn't shoot a Level III without checking first, but my gut is you will find the load you want between 4.2 and 4.5gr.

Please check the Hodgdons site as a reference, and work up safely.

[NicVerAZ]

I don't have an easy access to a chronograph and I just switched to Clays Universal so if anyone has chronoed the loads with Berry's plated 124gr bullets, please do share.

You guys who experiment with the hammer spring -- any chance you could measure the difference in DA/SA with the trigger gauge?

PS. I do have a problem chambering reloads as well -- my X-Trim is sensitive to the cases not being resized full-length and being a bit thicker towards the bottom. My GP6C was the same with both barrels (I've had a 4.25" and 5" barrels for it).

PPS. Regarding the holsters -- I've had no major problems (besides loosening some screws) fitting my X-Trim into Blade-Tech GP6 holster, but the LHS X-Calibur holster I have received very recently works better. It would also fit X-Calibur when I get it.

With Clays Universal, I'd start at 4.2 gr at 1.145 and work up if needed.

Invest in a chrony. They are barely over $100 and worth their weight in gold.

I pre-process my brass and never run into a fat round at the wrong time.

Glad you like the LHS Holster. I can't wait until I get the new mag pouches in.

What do you call pre-process?

[NicVerAZ]

Regarding the LHS holster, does it accomodate a CR Speed belt?

http://shop.lhsholsters.com/product_info.php?products_id=40

It seems a little bit slim to me. Granted, I can probably mod it myself to fit, but I was wondering.

And yes, I can also contact them and ask.

[rebsimeanblackbears]

I've a cr speed belt, and it works well with the LHS holster.

[Canuck223]

The new anchor can cinch up rock solid on even relatively thin belts. There's no problem with thicker belts.

By pre-processing, I mean that all my brass is run though the 1050 once just to size and primer pocket swage.
I then run it through a second cleaning.
Then it's run through a second time to resize (mostly just to clear the primer pocket and flash hole) and prime.

When I load ammo, it's in cases that I know are well sized, with proven primer pockets, and with primers seated just below flush.

[NicVerAZ]

The new anchor can cinch up rock solid on even relatively thin belts. There's no problem with thicker belts.

By pre-processing, I mean that all my brass is run though the 1050 once just to size and primer pocket swage.

I then run it through a second cleaning.

Then it's run through a second time to resize (mostly just to clear the primer pocket and flash hole) and prime.

When I load ammo, it's in cases that I know are well sized, with proven primer pockets, and with primers seated just below flush.

Interesting. I will try that with my match ammo.

[Geeko]

A bit late in the discussion, however, I do have to say the GP K100 is one fine pistol. I got my first GP6 MK6 several years ago. Loved it. Got a second one and then the GP5 MK6. Later got the GP K100 MK7. I did note the frame differences in the thickness especially in the dust cover area and where the trigger guard snaps into the frame.

I did note one issue. I reload my 9mm using PowerPistol. I use 6.0gr with a 115FMJ. It chronys about 1150-1175fps for PF in IDPA. However, after about 7000rds, I noticed the square hole where the trigger guard snaps into, the back two corners cracks started there. It seems back edge of the trigger guard slams into the back side of the square hole from the slide slamming into the front of the trigger guard. A first I did not realize what caused the cracks. I thought I did something wrong in the disassembly/assembly process. That first frame was replaced by STI. The second time the cracks appeared, I thought it was from range pickups from a USPSA match. Someone trying to meet major with their 9mm instead of staying minor. Upon the third and final frame cracking is when I realized the interaction of the slide and trigger guard during recoil. I then remembered where I had seen this type of issue with square corners of a part during recoil. I had seen it on the M1 Garand oprod. The solution was to put a radius cut on the square corner. This fixed the M1 Garand oprod cracking problem during WWII. I took one of my remaining MK6 frame and cut radius cuts on the back two corners and to date had no cracking in that area. I have left my MK7 frame alone with its square corners to see if the cracking does not happen due to the thicker frame material or if it still does. I look forward to hopefully getting my hands on the new MK12 frame version.

It would be great to see at least the new P45 come into the US as well as the K22 too.

I hope Century can get these and others models into the US soon.

[Canuck223]

Hey There Geeko,

There are possibly two issues in play here with your frame troubles.

The trigger guard on the pre-MK12 grip frames was designed as a built in and periodically replaceable slide buffer. By design it takes a little abuse and will begin to distort. If it's swapped out every 20K, there should be no problem. If you run hotter ammo, it might need replacing faster.

Unfortunately what we found is that the trigger guard disassembly system caused some owners stress.

Some tried to pull the trigger guard straight down for disassembly, instead of forward and then down. This caused added stress in the lock up area and grips would fail.

Some folks periodically forgot to snap the trigger guard shut during reassembly, and that allowed added slide travel and again could cause grips to crack.

For the Mk7 frame, the area where the trigger guard anchors was beefed up, and the trigger guard was slightly widened as it gets closer to the magazine release.
These upgrades eliminated a large number of the user induced frame problems, but not all.

For the Mk12 frames, the trigger guard is solid and there is no slide buffer. Also on the MK12 models, the frame insert is serial numbered, not the grip. I'm still waiting to hear if the grip frame will be importable as a non-ffl part. I half expect ATF to suck and blow on this subject.

There are already ATF approvals for the P11, K100 X-Trim, K100 Target, K100 Dynamic, X-Calibur, P-40, and P-45.
From my review of the ATF FTB reports, getting the K22 X-Trim approved should be easy. The K22S may take some work but should be possible.

[NicVerAZ]

I am happy to hear there are ATF approvals for the new batch of guns, including the XCal.

That said, it seems that the days of the CAI-imported K100s are numbered.

[Geeko]

Canuck223, thanks for the reply/info.

I still believe the problem is due to the slamming of the slide into the trigger guard (slide buffer) which then the trigger guard slams into the back of the square hole inducing the stress on the square corners causing the cracks. As figured out during WWII regarding the M1 Garand oprod, radius cuts fixed the cracking at the square corner. I learned early on to take down the action (trigger guard) by pulling forward and then down. Saw this in a youtube video. So the second and third frame cracking was not due to improper takedown/reassembly. The trigger guard was always snapped into proper position before firing. I thought it may have been an ammo issue until I understood the dynamics between the slide and trigger guard (slide buffer) and the square corners.

I am still testing the MK6 frame that I have with the radius cuts and still no cracks even though I look forward to the MK12 frame version. I will update later as round count continues. I only note this issue because of the burn rate of Power Pistol powder. IIRC, PP has been/was/is been used for the standard Mil load used for the US Military M9 (Beretta 92FS). I am sure that any other powder this issue would/may not have occured.

At this time an interesting experiment with the MK6 frame despite having been discontinued. There are many MK6 frames out there and someone may benefit from this information. I also am testing a MK7 frame unmodified (no radius cuts) and hereto no cracks (yet?) due to the thicker material to take up the shock of the recoil (slide buufer).

Ending comment for now, BATF please hurry up. I would love to see/get the P45 and other updated models.

[Canuck223]

The one above is mine, still in the mk7 frame.

[Canuck223]

And the MK12 K100

[NicVerAZ]

I think that the new, more traditional, takedown is a good initiative.

The current system is very awkward and uneasy without a bit of practice, and it got even harder with the Mk7 frame.

I too have the same issue on my GP6 Mk6 as Geeko. It will probably be another trip to STI. My GP6 will probably be resold to finance the Mk12 or X-Calibur when it comes around in the States.

[Sandbagger123]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TW_s1_bd-kE

[NicVerAZ]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TW_s1_bd-kE

Thanks, but I am not a big fan of porn.

I like the REAL THING

[pivoproseem]

What is the status of GP pistols, didn't Century drop them from importation? I hope EAA doesn't pick them up....I don't own one, but if I were to by a poly- framed gun, it'd be on the short list.

[Canuck223]

What is the status of GP pistols, didn't Century drop them from importation? I hope EAA doesn't pick them up....I don't own one, but if I were to by a poly- framed gun, it'd be on the short list.

Grand Power is committed to bringing it's entire line up to the US. If Century are not up to the task, we'll find other options.

Century stopped shipping Grand Power pistols and is currently coordinating a recall to address a potential problem with some of the barrels in the K100 and P1's they imported. Grand Power has supplied Century with replacement barrels to refit every gun in the affected serial number ranges.

The vast majority of the barrels in this recall are probably perfect. They are being replaced out of an excess of caution. Some of the blanks used to produce these barrels were later discovered to have the wrong metallurgical properties. Grand Power as a result has switched to a different supplier for their barrel blanks.

One note: The Grand Power guns are not polymer framed guns. They have a cnc machined steel frame holding the hammer group. The polymer is just a grip. In that way, it's somewhat like the STI 2011.

[NicVerAZ]

What is the status of GP pistols, didn't Century drop them from importation? I hope EAA doesn't pick them up....I don't own one, but if I were to by a poly- framed gun, it'd be on the short list.

Grand Power is committed to bringing it's entire line up to the US. If Century are not up to the task, we'll find other options.

Century stopped shipping Grand Power pistols and is currently coordinating a recall to address a potential problem with some of the barrels in the K100 and P1's they imported. Grand Power has supplied Century with replacement barrels to refit every gun in the affected serial number ranges.

The vast majority of the barrels in this recall are probably perfect. They are being replaced out of an excess of caution. Some of the blanks used to produce these barrels were later discovered to have the wrong metallurgical properties. Grand Power as a result has switched to a different supplier for their barrel blanks.

One note: The Grand Power guns are not polymer framed guns. They have a cnc machined steel frame holding the hammer group. The polymer is just a grip. In that way, it's somewhat like the STI 2011.

I indeed believe that this is "extreme caution" and a good example of great customer support.

Good luck with the new importer.

[NicVerAZ]

I measured the trigger pull at 8 lbs in double action (ouch!) and 4.5 lbs in single action using a Timney pull gauge on my K100.

I was surprised by the number, I believed all this time the SA pull was between 2 and 3.

Can anyone else get the same readings?

[Sandbagger123]

Got the same with my Lyman digital. have to put this into perspective though. Most of the factory DA/SA ones i have tested were 6# Sa and 12# DA. Sig and Berettas.

Even CZ's that have been massaged by CZC are 3.5-4 # SA and 8# D/A. They can of course be brought down lower with the right parts, but as of now there is not much comp support in the US for the K100.

Got a friend with a CZ that has a 4.5# DA and 2# SA. only lights FED primers though.

Edited November 18, 2013 by Sandbagger123

[NicVerAZ]

I am going to experiment with recoil spring (with caution, of course).

What is a good recoil spring tester out there which will work with our springs?

[cpa5oh]

13# hammer spring from an EAA Witness makes the trigger feel GREAT...did on mine, anyhow...and no light strike issues that I've noticed. (Only problem I have with the gun is a short site radius...when I get mine back, though, I'm gonna work with it extensively and see if I can make the gun work as my primary competition gun.)

[Canuck223]

I measured the trigger pull at 8 lbs in double action (ouch!) and 4.5 lbs in single action using a Timney pull gauge on my K100.

I was surprised by the number, I believed all this time the SA pull was between 2 and 3.

Can anyone else get the same readings?

The 8# DA doesn't surprise me with stock springs. The 4.5# DA however does surprise me. I'd be tempted to clean, oil, and retest.

As for the perception of a lighter weight, that doesn't surprise me. Compared to some of the other brands, the geometry here is clean. There isn't a lot of tolerance stacking possible in the design.

I think back to the earlier days when shimming or peening the sear cage for the CZ type guns was job one to trigger work, just to take out the slop.

[Canuck223]

I measured the trigger pull at 8 lbs in double action (ouch!) and 4.5 lbs in single action using a Timney pull gauge on my K100.

I was surprised by the number, I believed all this time the SA pull was between 2 and 3.

Can anyone else get the same readings?

The 8# DA doesn't surprise me with stock springs. The 4.5# DA however does surprise me. I'd be tempted to clean, oil, and retest.

As for the perception of a lighter weight, that doesn't surprise me. Compared to some of the other brands, the geometry here is clean. There isn't a lot of tolerance stacking possible in the design.

I think back to the earlier days when shimming or peening the sear cage for the CZ type guns was job one to trigger work, just to take out the slop.

So today was the perfect day to test the triggers on my guns.

I'd been experimenting with the new wide safety levers and had a new K100 hammer in my old GP6.

Single action was 4# even, and I didn't check the DA at the time.

On the X-Calibur, the SA broke at 2.25lbs and the DA broke at 6.45lbs.