Geeko

Modified Chute with Rollsizer

I had setup the Mark7 autodrive with a 650. However, I changed out the Dillon bucket with an offchute from mikesreloading@yahoo.com. Make a mod to his chute and it works great with many other setups, like the Rollsizer - https://www.rollsizer.com/ JB Weld three super magnetics so I could use the chute on several other equipment setup. The off chute tube was from Range Panda - https://rangepanda.com/collections/dillon-xl650/products/funnel-output-hose-and-clamp However, this can be found on Amazon as dust collection parts/equipment The shield material I got from - https://www.webstaurantstore.com/g/8921/regency-shelving-30-wide-clear-pvc-shelf-liner I used their material to cut and shape for the shield or off chute of the Rollsizer, since without, the brass would bounce enough to not go into the chute. The velcro shield allows me to take it off if I need to use the chute on the 650.

I currently use Mr Bullet and works great and a lot less than GR

Do you check - https://www.gugaribas.com.br/en/where-to-buy/ They list several US Dealers

For a Dillon Casefeeder upgrade, I probably would use Immortal Arms ™ Case Feeder Upgrade Pro (CFUPRO) - https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=440 I know for my setup, I will be using MA Systems casefeeder (14in) to feed the Rollsizer or Decapper/deprimer units. Both Rollsizer units will outrun the Standard Dillon. Just going more commercial direction equipment. Just not big enough to go bigger than the 14in bowl. The 16in bowl can come with variable speed.

Great pictures of your new and improved bracket. I did see that your motor housing is different from mine. The rear end cap is shaped differently. My motor end cap was what was inferring with the bracket that caused me to add spacers. Your motor housing does not appear to have that problem. Either way, nice job.

My idea for the Rollsizer Decapper at this time was $$. I have thought of something like the Dillon CP2000 setup (minus the trimmer for pistol) and replace the Dillon casefeeder with the MA System either 14in or 16in bowl. Add the Fast and Friendly (fastandfriendlybrass.com) motor drive for depriming and checking the primer pocket swagger. It seems like the FFB system runs faster than Mark7. The idea is to deprime, wet tumble in the cement mixer, minus the steel pins, then use dry crush walnut for the drying process in the mixer again. The walnut would continue the cleaning and polishing process without the hassle of the steel pins. Then run through the Rollsizer to begin the reloading process.

I wonder if someone is working on an autodrive system for the FX10. That would be neat to see.

I had ordered and setup the CasePro100 several years ago and found it worked great to remove the brass bulge. Saw the Rollsizer and liked the speed capability. Ordered one. Went to setup on the bench and found things not aligning right. Contacted the MFG'r and was told it was shipping damage. The delivery company dropped the unit/box. Mfg'r did say try loosing the bracket screws and try to bend the bracket(s) and re-adjust. After checking the brackets for straightness before doing anything, I found one of the brackets was hitting the motor housing causing the misalignment (Shipping damage?? Not). I had to add spacers to one side to move the bracket away from the motor housing for clearance. Due to the added spacers, longer bolts were needed. I used M8 x 1.25 x 35mm. 30mm length would have worked, but the 35mm worked just fine as well. The original length was 25mm. This fixed things up. Now just waiting for the MA System casefeeder to finish the full setup to feed the Rollsizer and the Rollsizer Decapper

Thx for your reply Mike. I have participated in USPSA, ICORE, IDPA for yrs as well. Great fun. However, what have people done with tools as advertised per web forums, websites to fix the chamfer pilot issue. Would using the 45GAP chamber reamer work enough to open up the chamber near the throat, given the chamber SAMMI dimensions that near the throat area, the chamber diameter is less than the beginning opening? ** SAMMI chamber for the 45 tappers from breech face 0.4812 through to 0.4796 and ends at the throat at 0.4740 with chamber depth 0.898 - 0.920, if I read the SAMMI diagram right. It appears S&W cuts the chambers tight near the throat, almost too tight for the Brownells pilots. I just thought it was interesting that the cylinder S&W replaced worked just fine with the chamfer pilots, yet the original as well as other people have had this problem for some time. I do not have access to gage pins, a milling machine, nor tools shop. Just a basic garage gunsmith trying to figure things out with limit resources. My hands are just not as steady as they use to be without the pilot. SAMMI_45ACP_Chamber.pdf

Thx for your reply. The typical home gunsmith or maybe, call me a garage gunsmith, having done some/limited research, buy tools from Brownells to which a lot of people mention then generally are able to gunsmith with no problem. I do understand about gage pins, however, can be very $$ for many others to start. I thought of pin gages as well, but thought I would be able get by with some basic tools to start. As it can be seen in the original post pic, the replacement cylinder from S&W was just fine with the Brownells chamfer pilots and I was easily able to chamfer the chambers. Being so, why would the original factory cylinder have such problem as well as my friend's new 625-8. What I am asking is - what have people done to overcome the 625-8 cyl issue. It appears from other research that this issue has been going on for some time, 2010 the earliest I have seen, yet I have not seen a solution how people have overcome this with simple basic tools like those I have mentioned before and in the pic of tools purchased from Brownells. Tools are the Throat reamer for the 45 cyl, throat reamer pilots, the chamber finish reamer for the 45, the 2 45-1 chamfer tool pilots

These are Pilots from Brownells on their website, per their info, the 45-1 for the SW 625. Mind you, they fit just right on the replacement cyl with no mod to anything.

I am trying to figure out what going on with the SW 625 revolver to chamfer using the chamfer tool and pilots from Brownells. Brownells website says to use the 45-1 version for the SW 25 & 625. Both Steel & Brass pilots are the 45-1 ver. The replacement cylinder was from a repair job S&W did 6 months ago prior to founding out the pilots did not fit the orig cyl S&W sent back, but the pilots fit with the replacement cyl. My friend has a new 625-8 to which the pilots did not fit as well and S&W told him its to SAMMI spec and sent it back to him unmodified. What are we missing?

I did read some where that RSA is another entity of Eagle Imports. Just was not sure of the actual stamping RSA vs Eagle on the P45. Are you able to tell me if there is a SKU for the P45 with the dynamic rear and fiber front I see in all the distributors photos verse a three dot sight system I saw stamp with RSA? I prefer the fiber front and dynamic rear. I have the fiber on all my other GP's (MK6&MK7) and well as the dynamic on some. However, DawsonPrecision does not have the dynamic anymore.

Robert, where did you find the holsters? I've got an LHS holster from David a while ago, but I'd like something which I can use in IDPA. Tried to contact Blade Tech, they said they can make a custom fit holster if I left the gun there for a few days which is not an option until March-April. Just to add, I heard from Comp-Tac and their reply was: " Thank you for reaching out to us on this. Regrettably, at this time, all we have for GP pistols would be our holsters for the GP6. I will be happy to log your requests for these pistols and as they become more and more popular they will get moved up our R&D list. "

I noted on a GP P45 I saw recently the importer stamp of RSA Enterprise, Ocean NJ. I thought the importer was Eagle Imports? The P45 I saw did not have a fiber front, but the standard white dot version. Which is it, for I see other distributors showing the P45 with a fiber front sight. Because of the two issues noted, was what I saw an early import?

Canuck223, thanks for the reply/info. I still believe the problem is due to the slamming of the slide into the trigger guard (slide buffer) which then the trigger guard slams into the back of the square hole inducing the stress on the square corners causing the cracks. As figured out during WWII regarding the M1 Garand oprod, radius cuts fixed the cracking at the square corner. I learned early on to take down the action (trigger guard) by pulling forward and then down. Saw this in a youtube video. So the second and third frame cracking was not due to improper takedown/reassembly. The trigger guard was always snapped into proper position before firing. I thought it may have been an ammo issue until I understood the dynamics between the slide and trigger guard (slide buffer) and the square corners. I am still testing the MK6 frame that I have with the radius cuts and still no cracks even though I look forward to the MK12 frame version. I will update later as round count continues. I only note this issue because of the burn rate of Power Pistol powder. IIRC, PP has been/was/is been used for the standard Mil load used for the US Military M9 (Beretta 92FS). I am sure that any other powder this issue would/may not have occured. At this time an interesting experiment with the MK6 frame despite having been discontinued. There are many MK6 frames out there and someone may benefit from this information. I also am testing a MK7 frame unmodified (no radius cuts) and hereto no cracks (yet?) due to the thicker material to take up the shock of the recoil (slide buufer). Ending comment for now, BATF please hurry up. I would love to see/get the P45 and other updated models.

A bit late in the discussion, however, I do have to say the GP K100 is one fine pistol. I got my first GP6 MK6 several years ago. Loved it. Got a second one and then the GP5 MK6. Later got the GP K100 MK7. I did note the frame differences in the thickness especially in the dust cover area and where the trigger guard snaps into the frame. I did note one issue. I reload my 9mm using PowerPistol. I use 6.0gr with a 115FMJ. It chronys about 1150-1175fps for PF in IDPA. However, after about 7000rds, I noticed the square hole where the trigger guard snaps into, the back two corners cracks started there. It seems back edge of the trigger guard slams into the back side of the square hole from the slide slamming into the front of the trigger guard. A first I did not realize what caused the cracks. I thought I did something wrong in the disassembly/assembly process. That first frame was replaced by STI. The second time the cracks appeared, I thought it was from range pickups from a USPSA match. Someone trying to meet major with their 9mm instead of staying minor. Upon the third and final frame cracking is when I realized the interaction of the slide and trigger guard during recoil. I then remembered where I had seen this type of issue with square corners of a part during recoil. I had seen it on the M1 Garand oprod. The solution was to put a radius cut on the square corner. This fixed the M1 Garand oprod cracking problem during WWII. I took one of my remaining MK6 frame and cut radius cuts on the back two corners and to date had no cracking in that area. I have left my MK7 frame alone with its square corners to see if the cracking does not happen due to the thicker frame material or if it still does. I look forward to hopefully getting my hands on the new MK12 frame version. It would be great to see at least the new P45 come into the US as well as the K22 too. I hope Century can get these and others models into the US soon.