1050 for 9mm and .223 reloading

[j28s]

I've been told that if you will be switching out dies, to just get a 650. But if you have a dedicating press to a caliber that you shoot all the time then get a 1050. I have a 650 and looking to get another press...currently looking at the 1050.

Question: I pretty much shoot 9mm and .223. Anything other calibers I don't shoot enough to load in high volume and would reload on the 650. With that said, since the 9mm and .223 use small primers, what is involved with switching out calibers (9mm and .223) via a toolhead. Is it as easy as the the 650 (that is, 2 pins for the tool head, shell plate)? If not, what else is involved?

[al503]

If you get a dedicated spare tool head, changing out the calibers can be done in less than 15 minutes, once you get the hang of it.

Off the top of my head:

1. loosen and remove single bolt holding the tool head and switch the toolhead.

2. loosen for allen bolts holding the shellplate in and switch

3. switch the brass locator pins

4. switch the casefeed plate

I think thats about it.

If you're going to do a lot of 223, a 1050 with the swage is the way to go.

[SPRSkip]

If you get a dedicated spare tool head, changing out the calibers can be done in less than 15 minutes, once you get the hang of it.

Off the top of my head:

1. loosen and remove single bolt holding the tool head and switch the toolhead.

2. loosen for allen bolts holding the shellplate in and switch

3. switch the brass locator pins

4. switch the casefeed plate

I think thats about it.

If you're going to do a lot of 223, a 1050 with the swage is the way to go.

I second this. There are advantages to the 1050 but the negative side is the cost of a dedicated tool head and conversion kit for the shell plate end of things.

[norbs007]

I have a 650 and just recently added a Super 1050 for the same reason... 9mm and 223. As al503 stated, it's the swager that gave it a go for me. Though I've yet to pick-up the conversion kit and toolhead for the 223 the time to switch calibers shouldn't be too much of a hassle for me. Planning on processing 223 brass on the 650 eventually since I have the conversion for it, it's just the thought of gunking up the casefeeder and casefeed tube with case lube that I don't like. Other than that, looking forward to loading 223 much easier.

[Kyle O]

Planning on processing 223 brass on the 650 eventually since I have the conversion for it, it's just the thought of gunking up the casefeeder and casefeed tube with case lube that I don't like. Other than that, looking forward to loading 223 much easier.

This is what I do, the lube is a non issue, you'll love it!

[norbs007]

This is what I do, the lube is a non issue, you'll love it!

Well that is good to know... thank you!

Edited October 27, 2012 by norbs007

[pmclaine]

I switch my S1050 from .38 to .45ACP to 30-06, soon .308.

A big part of my decision with which machine to get was based on fear of changing calibers. When I was able to get rid of one caliber leaving me with only two to load (at that time) I figured I could overcome any caliber change issues the S1050 is said to have.

I have learned that its not a big deal (except for cost of tooling up) and it is actually beneficial as my machine gets maintained every caliber change. Discovering how easy it is I added .38 to my original two calibers and look forward to a .308 set of tool heads.

I mitigated any the minimal caliber change issues there are by loading bigger batches when I do change a caliber.

[j28s]

Thanks guys. This helps a lot. I had heard that switching out the calibers took about 45 minutes which worried me.

Thanks again.

[mcracco]

I was ready to buy a 650 to load caliber #2 but users here talked me in converting my 1050. Glad I listened as it has worked out well. To me, the time to do the conversion is not a big factor and I use the opportunity to do some extra cleaning and greasing. Cost is the big issue as each caliber setup on the 1050 is a $600 bill.

[Lifeislarge]

45 minutes is nothing really, in the comfort of my garage. Even if I were to run out to the local Walmart to pick up some ammo it would take a lot longer than 45 minutes. I can't go there without it being a two hour round trip after the wife ambushes me with her list of stupid shit I need to "pick up" while I'm there. I'm a tinkerer by nature so the act of setting up and dialing it in is fun for me. I spend a lot more time doing other non-productive things. Besides, the more you take apart your press and put back it together, the more familiar you become with it's operation so when you do encounter a problem, you'll at least have a better idea of what's going on, even if your on the phone with the Dillon guy. I don't know what this obsession is with making caliber changes into NASCAR pit stops.

[purecharger]

I don't know what this obsession is with making caliber changes into NASCAR pit stops.

Seriously! Seems like the majority of posts I read are people doing their best to avoid changing calibers, and god forbid changing the primer system. The 45 minutes I spent on Thursday switching from Large to Small primers on my 1050 was way better than spending $1700 on another press. Like others in this post say switching calibers is a great opportunity to clean and lube your press. I'm one of the least mechanically inclined people out there and even I found it straightforward.

[warpspeed]

I had a 1050 and loaded 9mm & 223.

I did not find the switching of calibers an issue but I did have a separate tool head for both.

If you take a case and cut it in half, it makes the setting of the swaging rod easy.

[benos]

I've been told that if you will be switching out dies, to just get a 650. But if you have a dedicating press to a caliber that you shoot all the time then get a 1050. I have a 650 and looking to get another press...currently looking at the 1050.

Question: I pretty much shoot 9mm and .223. Anything other calibers I don't shoot enough to load in high volume and would reload on the 650. With that said, since the 9mm and .223 use small primers, what is involved with switching out calibers (9mm and .223) via a toolhead. Is it as easy as the the 650 (that is, 2 pins for the tool head, shell plate)? If not, what else is involved?

The items required and the options involved in adding a caliber to a 650 are explained here:

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillonfaqs.html#650calconv

be

[Turnpike]

I have used a 650 for about 14 years now. Prior to that for 7 years was a Hornady. Prior to that was a Lyman single stage for 10 or so years. Eight months ago I added a S1050. I did a lot of researching to ease my conversion process for the 300 blk. I looked at several trimmers. I have the super swage. After doing the math for time spent on each stage the S1050 was the clear winner for me and I would recommend one without hesitation. However in time you may spend nearly the cost of a 650 and several 650 conversions with all the caliber changes for the S1050.

I processed a 5 gal pail of 223 last week. I have another 5 gal pail of LC 556 to convert to 300 blk in the next couple of weeks. I also have another 2 5 gal pails of 223 misc. brass to do. This is where my S1050 shines. Beyond this processing the 650 would be a fine press with a case feeder. You'll enhance your reloading by adding a S1050. You'll have more options down the road.

Mike

[angus6]

I've been told that if you will be switching out dies, to just get a 650. But if you have a dedicating press to a caliber that you shoot all the time then get a 1050. I have a 650 and looking to get another press...currently looking at the 1050.

Sounds like your talking to XL650 owners, I shoot 7 calibers and the 1050 is the go to press, at this time I've only got 3 toolheads and really not sure I'll be adding more

[BeltFed]

I was saving for a S1050 when I came across a great deal on a 650. That was a no brainer at the time. Now I'm back to saving for a S1050 again, just for the swager.

[PingJockey]

Now I'm back to saving for a S1050 again, just for the swager.

Same here, plus I like the priming system better.

[sardo67]

I had a 1050 and loaded 9mm & 223.

I did not find the switching of calibers an issue but I did have a separate tool head for both.

If you take a case and cut it in half, it makes the setting of the swaging rod easy.

can you explain that more? the only thing i have run into with my 1050 is primer problems that i think are resulting from improper swage of mil-crimps.

[G29SF]

I had a 1050 and loaded 9mm & 223.

I did not find the switching of calibers an issue but I did have a separate tool head for both.

If you take a case and cut it in half, it makes the setting of the swaging rod easy.

can you explain that more? the only thing i have run into with my 1050 is primer problems that i think are resulting from improper swage of mil-crimps.

If you cut a case length-wise so you can see inside the case, you can use that to setup the swage backup die and swage rod easily. I use this method and it is VERY nice.

I have a similar setup as warpseed. I use my 1050 for 10mm and .223. 1 toolhead for 10mm, 1 toolhead for .223 [trimming] and 1 toolhead for .223 [loading].

The 10mm toolhead is setup pretty standard: resize/deprime; swage/backup/expand; prime; powder; powder-check; seat; crimp.

The .223 [loading] is also setup pretty standard: resize/deprime/expand-ball; swage/backup/expand; prime; powder; powder-check; seat; crimp.

The .223 [trimming] is fairly customized and works extremely well for me. Here are the details:

Station 2: Universal deprime die WITH .223 resize die expander ball and deprime pin installed (instead of universal deprime pin). This prevents resizing of the outer case however it DOES fix the mouth a bit. This helps when the case mouth is semi-closed/bent.

Station 3: Swage backup/expand die with swage rod adjusted.

Station 6: Trim die with trimmer.

With this setup, I can trim .223 then swap toolheads and load .223. This setup also allows me to load .223 without having to first trim. The .223 [loading] toolhead is fully functional. (I say this because some do not have a fully populated loading toolhead because of functionality overlap with the trimming toolhead.)

For me, I have to switch from small to large primer (and vice versa), however that isn't a big deal when swapping toolheads and everything else. Having dies pre-set saves a TON of time.

Edited November 13, 2012 by G29SF