jimbullet Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 I don't think the finish had anything to do with the crack or crack propagation There has to be something impacting the slide to cause it to crack in the first place, as there isn't enough of a jerk from normal cycling to cause that type of material fatigue. My money is on that the guide rod channel is striking the frame somewhere just in front of the barrel lug channel. Can you post a picture of the top of your frame? Would a shokbuff or something similar (aluminum buffs) have prevented the slide cracking though? To me it sounds logical for the shok buff to get really battered before anything else goes. That is why I have one always on my pistol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigG Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Two different slides, two different builders. You need to start looking at the areas that they have in common. Ammo, spring weights... It was the same Gunsmith. That being the case I'm willing to bet that is where the problem is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssanders224 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 What ammo did you run through the Caspian top end? If you reload , have you chrono'd it? Do you chamber check the rounds? Did you notice any other places that seemed affected ? Any bulge in the chamber? I run my reloads. They are consistant at 168 PF. Yes, I chamber check, and never had a problem with my reloads. I'm pretty darn anal about them. How is the slide finished? Blued, Hard chrome, etc.??? Blued. I don't think the finish had anything to do with the crack or crack propagation There has to be something impacting the slide to cause it to crack in the first place, as there isn't enough of a jerk from normal cycling to cause that type of material fatigue. My money is on that the guide rod channel is striking the frame somewhere just in front of the barrel lug channel. Can you post a picture of the top of your frame? There are no unordinary marks on the frame or slide. No evidence of odd impacts or wear. Everything seems to be fit correctly. I shot the gun in a match Sunday, and nothing changed. I'm going to keep an eye on it, and continue shooting the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegunnerd Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 You're sure it's a crack and not a scratch of some kind? Maybe there is something in your holster that is doing ? I'm just spitballing at this point . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midget Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 What ammo did you run through the Caspian top end? If you reload , have you chrono'd it? Do you chamber check the rounds? Did you notice any other places that seemed affected ? Any bulge in the chamber? I run my reloads. They are consistant at 168 PF. Yes, I chamber check, and never had a problem with my reloads. I'm pretty darn anal about them. How is the slide finished? Blued, Hard chrome, etc.??? Blued. I don't think the finish had anything to do with the crack or crack propagation There has to be something impacting the slide to cause it to crack in the first place, as there isn't enough of a jerk from normal cycling to cause that type of material fatigue. My money is on that the guide rod channel is striking the frame somewhere just in front of the barrel lug channel. Can you post a picture of the top of your frame? There are no unordinary marks on the frame or slide. No evidence of odd impacts or wear. Everything seems to be fit correctly. I shot the gun in a match Sunday, and nothing changed. I'm going to keep an eye on it, and continue shooting the gun. If that is the case, I would see if you can have someone just weld the crack up and refinish the slide.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Can we see pics of the second crack? What did the smith say? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911Prof Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I had an open gun that was slightly shortened and when I used an 8 lb recoil spring everything was fine. When I went to a 9lb spring I noticed that the reverse plug was getting battered and it turned out that the the spring was stacking up and going 'solid' due to the extra width. (http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=160859&hl=+reverse%20+plug#entry1795044) I am sure that if I had continued to shoot it that way I would have eventually cracked the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonglee0507 Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Minimize slide cuts man! Maybe thats the problem Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbullet Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 I had an open gun that was slightly shortened and when I used an 8 lb recoil spring everything was fine. When I went to a 9lb spring I noticed that the reverse plug was getting battered and it turned out that the the spring was stacking up and going 'solid' due to the extra width. (http://www.brianenos...ug#entry1795044) I am sure that if I had continued to shoot it that way I would have eventually cracked the slide. I never thought of the huge impact spring length has. From reading the thread, the reverse plug should actually touch the head of the guide rod when fully compressed, otherwise this results in the reverse plug getting battered. Thanks for the heads up. I now wonder why these spring manufacturers just dont then make the correct recoil spring length in the first place for a 5 inch pistol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 6 weeks ago my #2 backup gun slide cracked, look above for the post, Wednesday night while cleaning backup #1, I noticed that it cracked at the front of the breach opening, this is also an STI Slide. This gun was run with a shockbuff probably has 50K rounds or more on it. My #1 has a caspian slice, no cracks yet, however, the cone on the cone comp is splitting. I have a call in to sti. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnivelingDramaQueen Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Definitely , SVI is only solutions and best customer service !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Definitely , SVI is only solutions and best customer service !!! I got set straight on that point last Sunday at a match, fellow shooter has been shooting two open guns since the 1980's no cracks and he is shooting @190pf in 38S, he says Les Bear is the best slide and seems to have the proof in hand! Or is it they don't make them like the use to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Baers are tuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynn jones Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 sti use to replace cracked slides. they refused me here recently. bummer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 sti use to replace cracked slides. they refused me here recently. bummer Wonder why the change in replacing the slides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Was yours off a factory gun or one that was custom built Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 I have seen all brands of slides cracked, STI and Les Baer lead in the numbers. In a lot of cases the slides aren't lightened, standard profile with sight cuts and standard cocking serrations. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynn jones Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Was yours off a factory gun or one that was custom built i've had custom cuts in two slides. they replaced them both, then quit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grump Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Looks to me like a poor execution of the design, inadequate radius (as referenced above) and possibly too-hard surface hardening IF that was even done. Plus I suspect that even with a reasonable spring weight, the lightening cuts speed up slide velocity to make it all worse. Me, I'd totally trust it with a v-groove and weld, IF the rod is appropriate steel AND the radius is proper AND proper radius is added to the other side. But that would probably cost almost as much by the time it's re-machined to proper specs. IIRC, the M3 submachine gun receiver needed an added/increased radius to avoid cracking. So did the original M1 Garand op rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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