Patrick1981 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hello! Some people know how it's possible to make a trigger stop for a MIM trigger ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 The way I do it is to drill the square pad on the back of the trigger with a 1/8 (3 mm) carbide spade drill, but not all the way through. Then cut off a piece of 1/8 (3 mm) drill rod, make sure it's a slip fit in the hole in the trigger. With the gun assembled, put the drill rod in the back of the trigger and see how far the trigger will pull until it hits the stop. Take it out, make it a little shorter, try it again. When it gets to where the trigger will just release the hammer double action, take off another few thousandths and Loctite it in the hole in the trigger. It will be there forever or until you heat it up and pull it out. This way there is no hole in the front of the trigger to eat away at your finger on each trigger pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_Z Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 When I worked my 686 into a plate gun this is what I used.http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22167/Product/TRIGGER-STOP-SCREWS Works great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 When i gave up on getting a regular drill to work on the trigger, I put epoxy putty on the back of the trigger formed it into a bump and filed it to the final height once it had cured. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Not on a MIM trigger, but a number of times on a forged trigger I've made them from Marine Tex, SteelBed, PC epoxy etc. Put a little blob on the back, when it hardened I filed it square, then filed the back side till the gun functioned as I wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg in VA Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 You could always make an internal trigger stop.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 You could always make an internal trigger stop.... You talk about a pin rod ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 Not on a MIM trigger, but a number of times on a forged trigger I've made them from Marine Tex, SteelBed, PC epoxy etc. Put a little blob on the back, when it hardened I filed it square, then filed the back side till the gun functioned as I wanted. Cas, you talk about some kind of epoxy resin ? Sticks firmly to the metal ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg in VA Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 You could always make an internal trigger stop.... You talk about a pin rod ? Yes, pin rod hidden and works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 how much longer should be about a pin rod set for DA comparing the SA ? I know the finally setting is different for every gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 If you want to match the single and double action to one trigger stop, set the double action first as it almost always releases first. Then start stoning or diamond filing the single action sear part of the trigger until it is short enough to engage the notch on the hammer. Done correctly, you will have a close stop for both single and double action with no push off on the single action. I don't care for the internal pin rod as it will bend the rebound slide pin over time. It's not too bad for the occasional shooter, but someone who shoots a lot may have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Thanks for advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dauntedfuture Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 I used some JB weld to make a trigger stop. Its holding....so far. Not too much stress i dont imagine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 have a pics ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 I have seen where a pencil eraser was cut and glued to the back of the trigger and sanded to work. Old timers trick! Don't know anyone who has tried it though. FWIW Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMC Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 You can also put weld bead on the back of the trigger and file until the hammer falls just remember the hammer won't lock back in single action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I have seen where a pencil eraser was cut and glued to the back of the trigger and sanded to work. Old timers trick! Don't know anyone who has tried it though. FWIW Richard Yep, Use the glue that is used to keep the body moulding (sp) on a car. I do not use a trigger stop and just get the cylinder to lock up and then prss further for the tight/ far shots. later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp100man Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 If you want to match the single and double action to one trigger stop, set the double action first as it almost always releases first. Then start stoning or diamond filing the single action sear part of the trigger until it is short enough to engage the notch on the hammer. Done correctly, you will have a close stop for both single and double action with no push off on the single action. I don't care for the internal pin rod as it will bend the rebound slide pin over time. It's not too bad for the occasional shooter, but someone who shoots a lot may have a problem. One of my S&W came with an internal pin, and I put them in two more S&W. Two of the guns are the older non-MIM ones, and the third is a 625JM with the newer MIM parts. It takes a lot of trial and error to get the length just right, but when you do you never have to mess with it again. I can confidently say that I have put several thousand, perhaps over ten thousand rounds through each of the guns and they work flawlessly. I pull off the sideplate once a year or so, and strip everything out and I have not seen any bending, marring, etc on my rebound slide pins. It may bend over time, but I got a feeling that it won't be in my life time. But that it is just my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 If you want to match the single and double action to one trigger stop, set the double action first as it almost always releases first. Then start stoning or diamond filing the single action sear part of the trigger until it is short enough to engage the notch on the hammer. Done correctly, you will have a close stop for both single and double action with no push off on the single action. I don't care for the internal pin rod as it will bend the rebound slide pin over time. It's not too bad for the occasional shooter, but someone who shoots a lot may have a problem. The triggerstop inside the rebound spring will bend the rebound slide pin, as Toolguy says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 The triggerstop inside the rebound spring will bend the rebound slide pin, as Toolguy says. I have not seen this problem as long as the sideplate is left in place, so that it can support the pin on both ends. If you're not careful, it's pretty easy to bend the pin during the trial/error fitting process, though. Fortunately, they seem to bend back without breaking. Even so, I stopped using trigger stops years ago on my revos, which are shot almost exclusively in DA mode. In my opinion, trigger stops are useful for SA shooting only. For DA shooting, you want to roll the trigger right on past the break, for good smooth follow-through. You don't want the trigger to hit the end of its travel and lurch to a stop while the hammer is falling or the bullet is still in the barrel, do you? Learn to love the overtravel, boys! Hang onto the gun good and hard, get your finger in there to the first joint where it's supposed to be, and roll that puppy right on through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Mhh, i think I want to love overtravel, it's the cheapest and fast way And maybe the best for DA shooting Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 I try a simple way..I hope it's functional A little piece of rubber rod, cut at 2,3 mm. and super strong glue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 The triggerstop inside the rebound spring will bend the rebound slide pin, as Toolguy says. I have not seen this problem as long as the sideplate is left in place, so that it can support the pin on both ends. If you're not careful, it's pretty easy to bend the pin during the trial/error fitting process, though. Fortunately, they seem to bend back without breaking. Even so, I stopped using trigger stops years ago on my revos, which are shot almost exclusively in DA mode. In my opinion, trigger stops are useful for SA shooting only. For DA shooting, you want to roll the trigger right on past the break, for good smooth follow-through. You don't want the trigger to hit the end of its travel and lurch to a stop while the hammer is falling or the bullet is still in the barrel, do you? Learn to love the overtravel, boys! Hang onto the gun good and hard, get your finger in there to the first joint where it's supposed to be, and roll that puppy right on through. Mike, when I was shooting IPSC with my 625 I noticed the trigger stop led to more low left hits and I removed it. On my (686)s for Bianchi and PPC I found it very helpful especially at 50 yards. The way Warren adjusts the stop I think is important to note. If I place a business card between the stop and the trigger guard the trigger won't pull through. There is no gap to jump when the gun goes off only a solid feel and the dot lift. obviously this is a terrible idea for a carry gun but I think really helps in high accuracy situations. I have also found that the only thing wrong with having Warren build my guns is I can no longer blame the gun for my accuracy errors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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