fritzthemoose Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 here again not a LNL issue but maybe someone h as an idea. The brass I am using is for the most part S&B. This cant be avoided as more than 90% of the brass shot here is this brand. Bad thing is that they have the thightest primer hole you can imagine and the nontox version is even thighter. So that I can sometimes not seat a primer at all and like 1 to 2 out of ten are squashed or the primer is not seated deep enough dragging along and preventing the press from indexing properly again causing all kind of problems and also getting the half seated cases out takes lots of time. Here again I have to use pure force to get the primer in sometimes. Any idea beside getting a 1050? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdm74 Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 I always toss my s&b brass. I always have trouble with those. You could always purchase some once fired brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 S&B has tighter than normal primer pockets, otherwise good brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritzthemoose Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 I always toss my s&b brass. I always have trouble with those. You could always purchase some once fired brass. if I toss it I toss 90%+ of my brass. So not really an option unfortunately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritzthemoose Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 S&B has tighter than normal primer pockets, otherwise good brass. yes it does hold major loads well even after several times but the pocket is a pain in the ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4045 Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Prep pockets like rifle brass. Swage out the pockets. I usually throw away S&B brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritzthemoose Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 Prep pockets like rifle brass. Swage out the pockets. I usually throw away S&B brass. is there a fast way to do that? would love to thow the crap away but its not possible. like i said i might toss 1000 to end up with something between 50 and 100 non SB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlockCanMan Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 I sort out all of my S&B brass first before even trying to load them so I don't get my LNL jammed up. I am getting a bix box full of them. Haven't tried to swag out the pockets or anything yet. Please keep us in touch on what you decide to do and how it works out for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritzthemoose Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 I sort out all of my S&B brass first before even trying to load them so I don't get my LNL jammed up. I am getting a bix box full of them. Haven't tried to swag out the pockets or anything yet. Please keep us in touch on what you decide to do and how it works out for you. just read on some austrian forum that supposingly they had a retooling lately and now sb should have normal pockets. hope its not just a rumor but then again no idea how many old ones are still around even if its right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdm74 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 I always toss my s&b brass. I always have trouble with those. You could always purchase some once fired brass. if I toss it I toss 90%+ of my brass. So not really an option unfortunately Sell it for scrap metal, then buy some once fired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4045 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Dillon has a tool for it. It works but its about $100. I have tried other methods but none are quick or easy. Good thing is if you do it once you won't have to again on those pieces. It's just like removing the militar crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillC Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 I have a whole ton of S&B brass. Pockets were tight, and I had to swage them (Dillon makes a tabletop swager and RCBS makes both a press-mounted and tabletop tool) to get them to prime reliably. More recently, I haven't had problems priming S&B brass on my LNL. I use Winchester primers. I also have a steel washer under the primer punch, which may help. Good luck - I like using the brass! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Try all the primer brands available to you there. Some are larger than others and you may find one of the smaller ones that will enable you to use the brass you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onagoth Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 I throw it away, along with Fed NT, IVI, WCI and some others with weird markings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizer67 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 I could be mistaken, but I think S&B branded primers are sized slightly smaller to work with their smaller primer pockets. They might be worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfman Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Have a batch of S&B-Brass with priming problems on my LNL. The primer pocket is slightly than other brands, but the greater problem is, some primer pockets are out of center. I have crushed some primers, before measuring the pockets. Now I grab every case to feel the contact beetween primer and pocket to avoid crushing primers. This works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 The problem isn't the LNL it is the brass. The Dillon XL650 just crushses the primers easier. I shoot 9 major so I buy once fired brass, run into a lot of crimped primer pockets, and no I'm not checking them. I have learned to feel these before smashing the primer into oblivion, on the LNL, can't feel it on the dillon so they get smashed. You should be check this brass with a magnet some of it is steel cloaked in a vail of brass wash. The only "brass" I chunk is GECO. Shot lots of SB at major power factor with no issues. If you are really at wits end buy a few thousand Starline brass and shoot them till they split (minor only). Shooting at major power factor loosens the primer pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritzthemoose Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 The problem isn't the LNL it is the brass. The Dillon XL650 just crushses the primers easier. I shoot 9 major so I buy once fired brass, run into a lot of crimped primer pockets, and no I'm not checking them. I have learned to feel these before smashing the primer into oblivion, on the LNL, can't feel it on the dillon so they get smashed. You should be check this brass with a magnet some of it is steel cloaked in a vail of brass wash. The only "brass" I chunk is GECO. Shot lots of SB at major power factor with no issues. If you are really at wits end buy a few thousand Starline brass and shoot them till they split (minor only). Shooting at major power factor loosens the primer pocket. sorting out the s&b nontox solved most of the issues. The other s&b are ok. Geco works great for me by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 The problem isn't the LNL it is the brass. The Dillon XL650 just crushses the primers easier. I shoot 9 major so I buy once fired brass, run into a lot of crimped primer pockets, and no I'm not checking them. I have learned to feel these before smashing the primer into oblivion, on the LNL, can't feel it on the dillon so they get smashed. You should be check this brass with a magnet some of it is steel cloaked in a vail of brass wash. The only "brass" I chunk is GECO. Shot lots of SB at major power factor with no issues. If you are really at wits end buy a few thousand Starline brass and shoot them till they split (minor only). Shooting at major power factor loosens the primer pocket. sorting out the s&b nontox solved most of the issues. The other s&b are ok. Geco works great for me by the way. All the USA GECO I have encountered had crimped primer pockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techj Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Almost all of my 9mm brass is S&B. I found that I had far fewer problems (about 1 out of 200) when I switched from Federal primers to Winchester. With the Federals I was having a problem at least 2-3 times out of a 100. FYI -- I reload on an LNL AP with case & bullet feeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 The only brass plated steel S&B cases I have found were 9 mm. Some times a little rotating of the case while trying to start the primer helps. Kind of a touch/feel kind of thing to get it right. It will slow down the loading process in mixed brass like small primer 45 cases will. If I don't have my 1050 load it, I sort it out and load them all at once for lost brass matches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brenden Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Almost all of my 9mm brass is S&B. I found that I had far fewer problems (about 1 out of 200) when I switched from Federal primers to Winchester. With the Federals I was having a problem at least 2-3 times out of a 100. FYI -- I reload on an LNL AP with case & bullet feeder. This has been my solution as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Almost all of my 9mm brass is S&B. I found that I had far fewer problems (about 1 out of 200) when I switched from Federal primers to Winchester. With the Federals I was having a problem at least 2-3 times out of a 100. FYI -- I reload on an LNL AP with case & bullet feeder. This has been my solution as well. Well lets talk LNL, two things cause primer seating issues, 1st - The index, and the index going the primer station, if its not perfect with the shell plate ball locking in the hole, well you got problems. Second in debris in the primer slide cavity and the slide not going all the way forward, and or caca in the punch and it not going all the way down catching the slide. If that is all good then CCI primers work best for me in 9 mm, Win is also good. Federal a little more trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bch13mp Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Well lets talk LNL, two things cause primer seating issues, 1st - The index, and the index going the primer station, if its not perfect with the shell plate ball locking in the hole, well you got problems. Second in debris in the primer slide cavity and the slide not going all the way forward, and or caca in the punch and it not going all the way down catching the slide. If that is all good then CCI primers work best for me in 9 mm, Win is also good. Federal a little more trouble. I had the same problem, had to take the dremel and polish the primer slide and it works flawlessly now. I use both CCI and federal primers and have no issues. Wolf even works good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crydaddy Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 I have reloaded a lot on my LNL with S&B. I cannot recall having problems seating them using Winchester SPP. Try using this primer if readily available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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