WillC

I run MG 180 JHP at 1.120 (max length that will feed reliably) out of my CZ 75. Note that the JHPs require a far shorter COL than the FMJ/CMJ due the ogive. 4.6 N320 - 167 PF 4.8 N320 - 172 5.0 N320 - 177 5.1 N320 - 178 5.2 N320 - 182 Not sure why they're running slower in your STI. Hope this helps!

I've been limited more by what will chamber than by mag length. I wouldn't go past SAAMI max length (1.169) in any case. 1.150 (1.165 will engage rifling) for Berry's RN or 1.085 (1.100 will engage rifling) for MG 124 JHP are my go-to lengths. My chamber seems to be extra-tight, but I can't argue with the results!

Welcome from northern IL! Check out http://www.wiilshoot.com if you're ever in this neck of the woods. Lots of great info on area activities!

Hornady 55gr SP (2266), loaded to 2.200 per manual, mixed brass, CCI 400 primers 18" 1:9 barrel, temp 70F, 240m elevation 24.0 gr: 2856 fps (n=5), SD 30.93 (1.08%), ES 76 25.0 gr: 2969 fps (n=5), SD 19.07 (0.64%), ES 45 25.5 gr: 3008 fps (n=5), SD 13.82 (0.46%), ES 32

GAT in Dundee and Bass Pro (at least the one in Bolingbrook) carry jugs.

I shoot a CZ 75B in Production. It works quite nicely. You must start with hammer fully down. This means on 'Make Ready' you chamber a round and then _carefully_ lower the hammer all the way down. An AD when lowering the hammer is a DQ, obviously.

Not to mention Rube Goldberg contraptions involving electric eyes and arrays of solenoids. His expression of glee when talking about stage toys is priceless.

The IL State Championship this past weekend was a great match - a true class act! In Northern IL, we envy your proximity to the WSRC. It's an amazing facility!

I picked up a 625 PC. It wasn't too bad out of the box. However, I wound up needing to take it to my revolver smith. The chamfers on the cylinders were sharp and needed smoothing. The single action was so light that it concerned me. The sear was very rough and actually needed to be replaced. The hammer block was a poor fit to the hammer channel (it was too wide) and was actually dragging. It needed to be narrowed a smidge. The inside of the frame was so rough that I could have used it as a file. The trigger return reflected this. I got rid of the Technicolor stocks about 25 seconds after I got it. Now it runs like a champ... I love it. Ridiculously accurate and soft-shooting. It's a great gun and well worth it. I'm not sure what the Performance Center does exactly. Perhaps yours will be better... :-)

I have a whole ton of S&B brass. Pockets were tight, and I had to swage them (Dillon makes a tabletop swager and RCBS makes both a press-mounted and tabletop tool) to get them to prime reliably. More recently, I haven't had problems priming S&B brass on my LNL. I use Winchester primers. I also have a steel washer under the primer punch, which may help. Good luck - I like using the brass!

My IDPA club has enough revolver shooters that the change from 5 to 4.2 inches means they don't want to or can't participate anymore since they don't own a short barreled revolver and certainly don't want to cut theirs down just to shoot IDPA. As a 625 shooter, I still don't get the logic of allowing 5 inch barrels in semis and prohibiting them in revolvers (as opposed to a 4 inch). I don't think the extra length makes that big of a difference to justify cutting out a group of shooters who have USPSA-legal and previously IDPA-legal revolvers before the rules changed on them.

On further review, the drive hub seems to consistently snap at the level where the threaded steel insert ends within the cast aluminum part. It seems that any lateral force exerted on the hub (e.g. from the dies such as a hard to extract case or tough sizing stage) will wind up stressing this point. It's pretty much the only major potential design flaw I've seen, probably correctable if they just made the insert full-length. Just an observation...

Yep. The drive hub seems to be a weak part of the design. Or there was a bad batch. My brand new LNL had the drive hub snap the very first day I had it, when I was setting up dies. They sent me a new one. It's been great since.

Titegroup does a number on the RCBS plastic, and quickly (as in overnight). There's no way to remove the etching. This is the only pistol powder I've found that does this. If you think the clear plastic etching is bad, look inside the body of the dispenser - it can get ugly. When you contact RCBS, they will nag you about the sentence in the manual that tells you to empty your measure when done loading. And then, being the amazing company they are, will probably send you a new clear hopper. I doubt they'll do that more than once... Enjoy!

I use Tapatalk. This forum works very well with it (though I wish it would get rid of the 'successfully logged on' popup box every time I logged in)