TacticalReload Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I have a few questions. In an attempt to limit pre-travel, I see that you can bend the trigger return spring tab forward. I also see that you could drill and install a set screw in the ejector housing. Which way is better? To limit over-travel, I've been using a fitted Ghost Rocket connector. However, I guess you can go the LWD route and install a set screw into the opposite side of the ejector housing as the pre-travel location mentioned above. Is there an advantage to one over the other? Is it possible to do both set screws? Has anyone who has used the "set screw" method also relocated the trigger pad & trigger bar hole to lighten pull? How has one affected the other and vice versa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke8401 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 a set screw in the ejector housing When drilled and installed from the rear this limits over travel. I installed one on my G34 and for my setup it doesn't make much different as I like/have significant pre-travel/trigger prep. If you adjust the over travel stop enough to limit trigger movement right after the striker release the trigger feel great but becomes unreliable in that depending on the orientation of the gun and changes in grip the trigger pull changes/ increases significantly if the trigger bar must flex to allow the striker to release. I don’t think there is an "ejector" set screw that limits/removes PRE-travel. David E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 You can purchase a trigger housing with adjustments for both pre travel and over travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 If you do both set screws and relocate trigger pivot pin hole you get a VANEK ULTIMATE TRIGGER,with the inclusion of JAGER STRIKER = 1 1/2 LB TRIGGER JOB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalReload Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I don’t think there is an "ejector" set screw that limits/removes PRE-travel. I think you can put a set screw on the opposite side of the over-travel to limit pre-travel. You can purchase a trigger housing with adjustments for both pre travel and over travel. What's the fun in buying one when you can make one yourself by ruining a bunch of parts over and over. If you do both set screws and relocate trigger pivot pin hole you get a VANEK ULTIMATE TRIGGER,with the inclusion of JAGER STRIKER = 1 1/2 LB TRIGGER JOB. This is kinda what I'm thinking I'm going to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMC Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 YOu can put a set screw in front of the trigger bar that will adjust or limit pre-travel/take-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal82 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) Ok I pretty much have done most of the mods without using the set screws. I don't like the idea of the set screws and I believe it would be difficult to do correctly without having the proper tools. Also I have not moved the trigger pad hole location, requires a lot of work and some precise tools to do properly. I'm using a LWD connector with a lighter striker spring, lighter striker safety pin spring. I have re-profiled the "nose" of the trigger bar so that my break is at the very back and it has minimum reset. I also bent the spring tab forward a bit to reduce pre-travel, being careful to keep all safeties in tact.I have about a 1/4" pretravel, with a solid clean break with minimum over travel and a very short crisp break. I don't have a scale but I believe it's about 2.5lb. I'm using a 4lb stiker spring and it's a little light for me so I'm gonna try a 4.5 to see if that gives me more feel back in the trigger. Edited March 12, 2012 by Marshal82 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal82 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Image of my Pre-travel mod instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 All I got to say is be darn careful. I've seen more hack jobs with "all safeties functional" that actually had the safeties disengaged and did not even know it. I picked up one guys Glock (who had done some trigger mods he described in the same way as some on here have) and holding the grip,, gave the back of the slide a sharp rap with my squib rod...yep, it fired. Overtravel: I do my own by drilling and threading a hole and putting in the set screw. This results in a much harder overtravel stop, which most perceive as a crisper trigger. In essence, the torque is reduced and hitting against a more solid piece of the frame, the plastic rebound is less. That is the primary reason I have never liked the LS connectors. Pre-Travel: Again, I prefer a polymer block in the front of the trigger bar inside the housing. This moves the trigger back and to get the shortest, the cross tab on the trigger safety tab has to be trimmed. The more forward location of the trigger by bending the trigger bar is not only more time consuming, but I don't like the wobbly feel as much. The nice thing about the screw for over and block for per travel is that they can be removed and the trigger returned to a totally stock configuration. Simple and effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noximus03 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Do the safe and responsible thing and get a Vanek drop in kit, and call it a day. You wont be disappointed, and you wont walk around with a potentially dangerous weapon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalReload Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Do the safe and responsible thing and get a Vanek drop in kit, and call it a day. You wont be disappointed, and you wont walk around with a potentially dangerous weapon. I don't have the money to drop hundreds on something that can be done on my own for a couple of bucks and some work. I know it's not for everyone (and some people don't know their limitations and for all I know I could be one of those type of people). However, I don't necessarily think it's fair to call it irresponsible or unsafe to tinker with your Glock's trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGreg66 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Hmm, I never considered putting a set screw in the front part of the trigger housing to limit pre-travel. I might have to try that. Would that be legal for Production? Worth a try on my limited gun at least. I've tried both the set screw and Rocket connector for shortening reset and I like the Rocket a bit better. The Rocket connector has a more solid stop whereas using the set screw there's a bit more flex in the trigger once it bottoms out. I definitly don't notice it during a run or even shooting slowfire, but looking at them both. I like the idea of the trigger bar just stopping solidly instead of flexing at each pull of the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalReload Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Hmm, I never considered putting a set screw in the front part of the trigger housing to limit pre-travel. I might have to try that. Would that be legal for Production? Worth a try on my limited gun at least. I've tried both the set screw and Rocket connector for shortening reset and I like the Rocket a bit better. The Rocket connector has a more solid stop whereas using the set screw there's a bit more flex in the trigger once it bottoms out. I definitly don't notice it during a run or even shooting slowfire, but looking at them both. I like the idea of the trigger bar just stopping solidly instead of flexing at each pull of the trigger. While I'm not an expert on rules by any stretch, I would think that it would be legal for production as long as it isn't so extreme as to defeat either the firing pin safety or the trigger safety (or require modification of the trigger in order to keep it working). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 While I'm not an expert on rules by any stretch, I would think that it would be legal for production as long as it isn't so extreme as to defeat either the firing pin safety or the trigger safety (or require modification of the trigger in order to keep it working). It is legal, so long as it does not defeat or alter the TRIGGER safety. USPSA considers that to be the "primary" safety. While I think all safeties should be required to be maintained, the rules do not say that. Read C2.47. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TacticalReload Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) See... I told you I'm no expert on rules. Thanks for the clarification. Edited March 13, 2012 by TacticalReload Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) For those that are interested, this is a photo set illustrating the pretravel and overtravel. I use a 6-32 nylon screw, tip rounded, for the pretravel. Gel Locktite in the pocket for the tip. Then the threads that face the trigger bar are essentially removed to make a flat. Remove more to allow full stock safety tab frame engagement (about 50%), trim the "T" off the safety tab and remove just enough for the engagement on a L, L10 or Open (about 25%). The 6th photo is the overtravel screw. I use a 4-40x 1/4 socket set screw. Drill and tap from the rear of the housing. When you tap, only let about 3 of the cutting threads protrude into the gap. This makes the engagement a bit tighter eliminating the need for any locktite. I turn it in til about 3 threads are showing and then adjust from there. I back off 1/6th turn after I find I have no reset. It is really easy to do and the 2 screws are like 30 cents at your local ACE. BUT, if you don't know how to ensure the striker safety is still engaged, don't do this! The overtravel can not defeat any safeties, but if you turn it in too far, you won't get a reset. I have been doing this mod for about 12 years now. Probably about 100 housings out there that I have modified and none have failed. If you have a CCF Raceframe, you can tighten it up enough to literally make it feel like a decent "stock" 1911 trigger. Edited March 13, 2012 by MarkCO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I don't have the money to drop hundreds on something that can be done on my own for a couple of bucks and some work. I know it's not for everyone (and some people don't know their limitations and for all I know I could be one of those type of people). However, I don't necessarily think it's fair to call it irresponsible or unsafe to tinker with your Glock's trigger. It often is necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 It is legal, so long as it does not defeat or alter the TRIGGER safety. USPSA considers that to be the "primary" safety. While I think all safeties should be required to be maintained, the rules do not say that. Read C2.47. That depends on who you ask. It is my belief, that with a Glock, all the safeties work as one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) It is legal, so long as it does not defeat or alter the TRIGGER safety. USPSA considers that to be the "primary" safety. While I think all safeties should be required to be maintained, the rules do not say that. Read C2.47. That depends on who you ask. It is my belief, that with a Glock, all the safeties work as one. While I agree that all safeties should remain intact, they are in fact separable. If one were to remove the safety plunger, that does NOT render the trigger safety inoperable. Glock's own verbiage indicates 3 independant safeties. Furthermore, Amidon apparently "did" not agree either. There are several references to the "primary" safety in the rulebook, and one of the rulings even goes so far as to define the external trigger safety as the primary safety. While I would enthusisatically support a change in the rules w.r.t. striker fired pistols and operable safeties, I think the resistance would be significant. Edited March 13, 2012 by MarkCO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noximus03 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Do the safe and responsible thing and get a Vanek drop in kit, and call it a day. You wont be disappointed, and you wont walk around with a potentially dangerous weapon. I don't have the money to drop hundreds on something that can be done on my own for a couple of bucks and some work. I know it's not for everyone (and some people don't know their limitations and for all I know I could be one of those type of people). However, I don't necessarily think it's fair to call it irresponsible or unsafe to tinker with your Glock's trigger. Bro, I'm not trying to trash you, your gun, or your goals by any means. It was a simple suggestion based on being safe. It can really be touch and go with modifying a trigger set. Just really dont want to see a posting on here about your gun coming back to bite you. I can totally understand how it is regarding cost of the triggers. I dont know your budget, but another (somewhat cheaper) option is to try one of Glocktriggers.com kits. they did wonders for my production gun. Hope it works out....safely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Just as a side note, when I did shoot Glocks primarily, I regularly checked my safeties. Many times, due to wear, I found that one of the safeties was just on the edge of being non-functional, maybe a time or two completely non-functional. I would not use a Glock without all safeties operable and so I was finding myself doing trigger jobs more than I cared for. One of the reasons I learned to do my own...a new trigger every year was not an expense I wanted to incur. Also why I kept a complete second gun and shot it mostly at majors, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magsz Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Just as a side note, when I did shoot Glocks primarily, I regularly checked my safeties. Many times, due to wear, I found that one of the safeties was just on the edge of being non-functional, maybe a time or two completely non-functional. I would not use a Glock without all safeties operable and so I was finding myself doing trigger jobs more than I cared for. One of the reasons I learned to do my own...a new trigger every year was not an expense I wanted to incur. Also why I kept a complete second gun and shot it mostly at majors, just in case. Can you elaborate on how your mechanical safeties were eroding? The only safety that i have ever found questionable was the firing pin plunger safety as that has a tendency to peen somewhat harshly over time. Anything else we should know about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) Can you elaborate on how your mechanical safeties were eroding? The only safety that i have ever found questionable was the firing pin plunger safety as that has a tendency to peen somewhat harshly over time. Anything else we should know about? I have had the trigger safety "flipper" or "Tab" lose all rebound. It is a polymer flipper basically designed as a living hinge. Over time, the engagement gets less and less, for a variety of reasons. When I looked at one of these 500K rounds rental Glocks, the trigger safety was non-existant due to this. There are a few things that can also occur to impede proper operation of the drop safety, but I can't comment on them since I have an active case on the matter...CHECK to make sure all three work! Edited March 13, 2012 by MarkCO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Getting back to the OP question--I have bent the leg of the cruciform to limit take up. Heat and a heat sink must be used. I've also drilled a hole in the top of the top of the ejector housing and inserted a pin. Both will cut down on the pre travel. If you do this make sure the right side of the cruciform sear is on the drop safety ledge when the trigger is forward. If you do this the trigger safety will have adjusted where it enters the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes777 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 so, if i instal a pin in the ejector housing, do I re-cut the trigger safety to get it to work? or is this where bending the bar comes in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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