$2000 for a single stack gun (uspsa)

[ss+P]

my first thought was to say go with option 2. if you have someone tune it it should sing like a custom gun.

someone said just have a .40 top end built and while that is a great idea you will then have a 9 top end that probably won't get shot ever and it will be harder to sell as just a top end. the price that he put down for that idea was more than the entire 40 cal gun. some people will tell you that it will wear the rails differently than the 9 and you may get cycling problems. don't know not a smith but i did stay at a holiday in express last night.

you said you shot your 2 classifiers very well and now you are thinking of bumping to major. STOP. cha-lee on this forum did a whole study on a major 40 vs a minor 40 (same thing as the 9, except you can carry more rounds in a 9) take a look at it. This got my buddy and i thinking about the whole major vs minor thing again. He was a great b class shooter and won production in b class at an area match and i came in second b class in limited at the same area match.

we shot a local match in limited, him minor, me major he beat me on 2 stages and i beat him on the other 3. Here was our conclusion if you are B class or under it isn't going to hurt you staying minor and in fact may help some of us. i think we all get caught up in the whole major thing b/c all the pros do and they should or they may never win.

As for punished, i don't know your classification, but thought i would share this with you to just make the decision harder.

reloading 9 is cheaper than 40. not much but it is.

if you do sell the 9 then go option 2

Edited December 21, 2011 by ss+P

[Punished]

I recommend you get an STI USPSA Single Stack (I bought one in .40 S&W last summer).

Much better gun than a Trojan and competition ready right out of the box.

MSRP of $1796.00.

I have not been able to see one of these in person. I'd imagine it handles just like a trojan, just upgraded parts? Is the recoilmaster an issue like everyone says with limited guns?

I haven't found the price difference between the lowest end 1911 with the right mods and a high end custom 1911 to be justified.

I shoot a Spartan that has had some work done to it....a lot of it cosmetic only.

Dawson front sight

Techwell mag well and grips

Trigger job

Front strap checkering

Controls replaced with stainless

Rear sight filed to a custom shape that I like

Nitro bond finish

It is a 45 so it runs. It is as tight as you could ask for and 100% reliable. It likes Wilson mags that don't cost a fortune. It can out shoot me by a long shot. Yes, customs are slicker and they are probably a little better looking, but as far as shootability, I think you would be hard pressed to beat it.[/size]

I have a gun for every division and I always come back to open, but I do really really like shooting ss with this gun.

All that being said, I thing if I were in the market for a new gun, I would have to give a long hard look at Akai custom. I have spoken with Shay a few times and have been really impressed with him and his work.

Shay quoted me for a build. It is outside what I was looking to spend. As it just brings me to the thought of him just building me a limited gun instead. My price idea has been skewed by the big gun manufacturers offering under $2,000. I was thinking a basic limited build is $2300+, a SS frame is less than a 2011 so maybe $1900 is within reason. wrong

I have a Trojan in 45 ACP. Tripp built my 40 S&W. Kodiak Precision built my SVI SS.

I already have a 1050.

Reloading equipment is more important (IMO) than anything else right at the moment for you. Invest in a Dillon 650. This is a workhorse machine with easy caliber changes available.

I pretty much will not buy another STI SS gun. Don't get me wrong, They are nice guns and very popular with the BE members, almost to a cult following. I would buy a Nowlin (if he still makes 'em), SA, Wilson, even a Les Baer (although I do not think he makes a 40 slide ala carte) anything but an STI SS. You will end up replacing/upgrading most of the parts eventually. IMO it is better to start with the best parts available and save spending twice for the same part.

Buy a Caspian slide, Nowlin/Kart barrel, McLearn extended firing pin, EGW firing pin stop, Aftec, and some decent sights. This is a great way to go. Have a good gunsmith fit it to your frame--try Matt McLearn.

Spend the remaining balance on VV320, Zero bullets from Angus, and primers.

Later, when you can afford it buy a full house custom gun. Make it an heirloom and shoot the heck out of it.

It is pure BS about 40S&W not being as reliable as a 45 ACP. Tripp mags are awesome. Look to TGO's post in the XD about the mags he uses. Wilson mags work great. My Tripp guns digests factory or long OAL rounds without any problems. And it is not because Virgil is a member of the pistolsmith guild but because he built it right.

Tripp is who I would send the Trojan to. Have him fix the feed ramp issue, give me 7-8 mags and a trigger job.

my first thought was to say go with option 2. if you have someone tune it it should sing like a custom gun.

someone said just have a .40 top end built and while that is a great idea you will then have a 9 top end that probably won't get shot ever and it will be harder to sell as just a top end. the price that he put down for that idea was more than the entire 40 cal gun. some people will tell you that it will wear the rails differently than the 9 and you may get cycling problems. don't know not a smith but i did stay at a holiday in express last night.

you said you shot your 2 classifiers very well and now you are thinking of bumping to major. STOP. cha-lee on this forum did a whole study on a major 40 vs a minor 40 (same thing as the 9, except you can carry more rounds in a 9) take a look at it. This got my buddy and i thinking about the whole major vs minor thing again. He was a great b class shooter and won production in b class at an area match and i came in second b class in limited at the same area match.

we shot a local match in limited, him minor, me major he beat me on 2 stages and i beat him on the other 3. Here was our conclusion if you are B class or under it isn't going to hurt you staying minor and in fact may help some of us. i think we all get caught up in the whole major thing b/c all the pros do and they should or they may never win.

As for punished, i don't know your classification, but thought i would share this with you to just make the decision harder.

reloading 9 is cheaper than 40. not much but it is.

if you do sell the 9 then go option 2

I definitely want to sell the 9. 40 S&W is what I want. I did the couple nights of researching, going back and forth between 45 and 40. But I know Tripp will make a 40 trojan run just fine if I end up that route.

I threw myself for a loop as well on the thought of a Fusion frame kit (read all the mixed reviews) or STI prefitted frame/slide/barrel and building a gun. I've fit parts before, everything besides barrel and slide. But just like my AR history, staying under budget when I pick the parts never happens.

For USPSA, I am a U on everything, 25 years old and wish I started at 18 when I first found out about it. I started USPSA shooting 3 months ago, first classifier I shot as a C, this second one I wasn't nervous and shot a B. For the fun 4 stage matches, I am usually mid/upper pack. I shoot far more A's than C's, very few D's (swingers mostly)and a rare mike.

To me, moving to Major is the right thing to do. Sure I could just shoot all A's with my minor, but when you calculate the scores and realize the few extra points major gets you will definitely help.

[ss+P]

Yes you get more points for c and d's in major, but if you are already shooting A's and A at lets say a half second in minor is better than an a at .55 seconds in major and an A at .52 seconds is that in either major or minor.

If you are new to uspsa i would keep what you have and start reloading. if you are shooting factory ammo you can go much faster with reloads in 9 or 40 but i would start shooting faster with the minor and then go major in a year or two.

really look up cha-lee posts on a major vs minor limited with an m&p. really good read and he tells you the math and how much faster you have to shoot and what points you have to get.

maybe stick with minor and go to a good class. i am an a class in limited and i always look for extra cash to go to a class.

good luck

Edited December 22, 2011 by ss+P

[Punished]

Yes you get more points for c and d's in major, but if you are already shooting A's and A at lets say a half second in minor is better than an a at .55 seconds in major and an A at .52 seconds is that in either major or minor.

If you are new to uspsa i would keep what you have and start reloading. if you are shooting factory ammo you can go much faster with reloads in 9 or 40 but i would start shooting faster with the minor and then go major in a year or two.

really look up cha-lee posts on a major vs minor limited with an m&p. really good read and he tells you the math and how much faster you have to shoot and what points you have to get.

maybe stick with minor and go to a good class. i am an a class in limited and i always look for extra cash to go to a class.

good luck

I'm looking for Cha-lee's post now. I am going to try and take class with Shannon Smith here in the new year.

[Dragoon]

I recommend you get an STI USPSA Single Stack (I bought one in .40 S&W last summer).

Much better gun than a Trojan and competition ready right out of the box.

MSRP of $1796.00.

I have not been able to see one of these in person. I'd imagine it handles just like a trojan, just upgraded parts? Is the recoilmaster an issue like everyone says with limited guns?

One BIG difference is that the USPSA Single Stack has a forged frame wheras the Trojan's frame is cast.......

As for the Recoilmaster, I have only shot my SS in a dozen or so club matches (Florida Open wwill be my first major with the gun) and so far haven't experienced any trouble. Time will tell, I guess......

[shooter57]

Have you ask any of the guys at your club if you could shoot their gun in 40? most will let you run their gun through the course, may have to pay them for the ammo,most don't want nothing but their ammo shot, see what you like and don't like. How do you shoot against others in a big match outside your local area? Are you really ready to move up after taking a few months off? Most of the top shooters are shooting 1000's of rds a week are you ready for that. Get reloading equipment and shoot. You may be moving up against the local guys but the big matches bring alot of the top shooters from around the state and you need to see what you need to beat them. It's not what you do at the home club but what you do at the top matches.

[Punished]

Have you ask any of the guys at your club if you could shoot their gun in 40? most will let you run their gun through the course, may have to pay them for the ammo,most don't want nothing but their ammo shot, see what you like and don't like. How do you shoot against others in a big match outside your local area? Are you really ready to move up after taking a few months off? Most of the top shooters are shooting 1000's of rds a week are you ready for that. Get reloading equipment and shoot. You may be moving up against the local guys but the big matches bring alot of the top shooters from around the state and you need to see what you need to beat them. It's not what you do at the home club but what you do at the top matches.

I completely agree with ya. I will be ready come summer to shoot in a big match, just need to figure out what to do about the 1911. I don't have the hobby income to shoot constantly, so I make up for what I can with dryfire. I'm not in this to win prizes, just to have fun being competitive and take my mind off of life for those couple seconds on the stage.

At the regular matches not a ton of single stacks are around, when they are I am seeing .45s.

Edited December 25, 2011 by Punished

[shooter57]

Have you ask any of the guys at your club if you could shoot their gun in 40? most will let you run their gun through the course, may have to pay them for the ammo,most don't want nothing but their ammo shot, see what you like and don't like. How do you shoot against others in a big match outside your local area? Are you really ready to move up after taking a few months off? Most of the top shooters are shooting 1000's of rds a week are you ready for that. Get reloading equipment and shoot. You may be moving up against the local guys but the big matches bring alot of the top shooters from around the state and you need to see what you need to beat them. It's not what you do at the home club but what you do at the top matches.

I completely agree with ya. I will be ready come summer to shoot in a big match, just need to figure out what to do about the 1911. I don't have the hobby income to shoot constantly, so I make up for what I can with dryfire. I'm not in this to win prizes, just to have fun being competitive and take my mind off of life for those couple seconds on the stage.

At the regular matches not a ton of single stacks are around, when they are I am seeing .45s.

With that answer I say get reloading equipment a 550b or 650 and buy a few thousand bullets, learn to reload for your nine and practice. dry fire is ok but you need live fire to really find out whats going on. Save any left over money and save for your dream gun when you figure out what you really want. A rough figure is $130.00 will get you a thousand reloads vs. buying a thousand factory loads. try to shoot others guns if you can. most important is live fire with your gun. stretch those hobby funds as far as you can.

[mpolans]

I'd go with a Spartan and reloading gear. If you're going to play these games and you're not rich, reloading is a must.

[Carmoney]

One BIG difference is that the USPSA Single Stack has a forged frame wheras the Trojan's frame is cast.......

I would be interested in hearing you articulate why that would make any practical difference......?

[hax]

I would recommend investing in reloading equipment regardless of your decision. You will be able to save some cash plus get your loads perfect.

[TonyT]

In 40 S&W I shoot both an STI Trojan and a Dan Wesson Pointman. The Dan Wesson would be my first choice.

[amish_rabbi]

I recommend you get an STI USPSA Single Stack (I bought one in .40 S&W last summer).

Much better gun than a Trojan and competition ready right out of the box.

MSRP of $1796.00.

I have not been able to see one of these in person. I'd imagine it handles just like a trojan, just upgraded parts? Is the recoilmaster an issue like everyone says with limited guns?

One BIG difference is that the USPSA Single Stack has a forged frame wheras the Trojan's frame is cast.......

As for the Recoilmaster, I have only shot my SS in a dozen or so club matches (Florida Open wwill be my first major with the gun) and so far haven't experienced any trouble. Time will tell, I guess......

when i was looking and researching it was the spartan frame that is cast and the trojan upward is forged

[hkguy]

why not explore the option of having a 40 top end build for your existing trojan? if im not mistake all you would have to do is swap uppers and possibly the ejector and mags and then your good to go using your existing rig. This would be the cheapest route and should leave you plenty to get a press and start reloading.

[Shadyscott999]

I would buy another slide in 40. Send it to Jeff Abernathy and have it back in about 6 weeks. As a custom. He will probably want you to replace the fire control parts as will most smiths. Add mags and Dillon 550. BOOM! Done.

Edited October 5, 2012 by Shadyscott999