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Improving Stock M&P Trigger Reset Feel


smokshwn

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I have read M&P trigger threads until I am crosseyed but I cannot find a method to increase the feel of the stock triggers reset. I am carrying an M&P at work so the trigger must remain stock but has anyone found a method to improve the feel of the stock trigger reset.

Thanks in advance

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Not sure what trigger modification you can get away with. I think the Apex duty kit includes a stronger reset spring. I have the RAM in my 40 and I am apparently the only person on the planet that thinks the RAM pretty much worthless. JMO I am not looking to be convinced otherwise. Just FYI I am about a 1000+- round shooter a month.

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Apex products will not work for Smokshwn's application. He has to pass an armorer's inspection twice a year. I tried to pass a Apex product through and the armorer caught it. It was on my competition production gun, so I didn't get in trouble. Craig, Burwell's welded over travel mod might pass. I played with one at this years Nationals and as long as the trigger pull stays around 5lbs, the Rangemaster will not disassemble it. You also want one of the other 2 to do the inspection. They will notice the lighter trigger pull, and look to see if the springs have been changed but after that, they haven't been able to figure out where the lighter pull is coming from. They just assume its from the pistol being shot and worn in.

Craig, you do know the 1911's will be authorized withing the next 6 weeks?

Kevin

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Easy, Take out the trigger, bend the trigger bow. I put the longest portion against a straight edge and measure, then bend it to increase the distance by .010-.015. You CAN overdo it. I take my measurement at the near 90* angle. Yes a picture would help but I'm at work.

Hang on....

...painting....

See if this helps

M&P reset adj.bmp

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+1 for want2race

00bullitt did a trigger job on my M&P using stock parts. I acutally prefer the reset on my tweaked trigger bar vs. apex RAM after comparing them side by side.

Edited by TAP
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If you have too much reset tension it can create excessive drag and the reset will be sluggish. I had experimented with different tensions (amount the bar was bent), then once I got it right measured before and after. Now I can do it by feel, then confirm with measurement.

I have actually never installed a RAM so I can't comment on doing both other than what I mentioned above.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Best way I've found - do NOT buy the Apex striker block (unless you're paranoid on working on your own pistols and want a spare part).

Remove the striker block, and insert an allen key where the spring normally will go. Take this to the bench grinder, and profile the sucker so the entire head is a dome - not a flat space on it. Then polish it up. The allen key allows the striker block to rotate and give a uniform shape as you grind. Go slow and work from the outside in, aiming for a gentle profile - keep a dome shape, don't try to get a cone on it.

Take the trigger bar and very slightly bend it inwards towards the magwell - it doesn't take much.

This gives a much better reset. If you want a stronger one still, and do not use a mag disconnect or a thumb safety model, then look at the Apex RAM.

The .45 that I bought has Apex's striker block in it, and my 9Pro has my home made jobbie - and there is a huge difference between the two, before I even added the RAM to the 9.

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Jeep, see post #6, click attachment.

Be carefull about making the block a dome. The trigger bar does not ride straight over the center of it. It's offset just like the Glock. If you overdo it you can induce light strikes because the block won't be pushed far enough out of the way and the firing pin will "rub" it. Ask me how I know. Using the light spring and rounding the corners is usually enough.

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Jeep, see post #6, click attachment.

Be carefull about making the block a dome. The trigger bar does not ride straight over the center of it. It's offset just like the Glock. If you overdo it you can induce light strikes because the block won't be pushed far enough out of the way and the firing pin will "rub" it. Ask me how I know. Using the light spring and rounding the corners is usually enough.

+1

I got an extra block and put it on the solid end of a 5/32" (i think that was the size) drill bit and polished the flat top till the ridges were gone as well as rounded the harsh corners. I used a felt pad in a bench grinder with jewelers rouge. It isn't as sculpted as an Apex USB but it did the trick. I did end up putting the apex one in though.

I can honestly say the Apex ram did nothing for me till I put the Apex USB in. Made a bigger difference then.

Edited by matgyver
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  • 3 months later...

Easy, Take out the trigger, bend the trigger bow. I put the longest portion against a straight edge and measure, then bend it to increase the distance by .010-.015. You CAN overdo it. I take my measurement at the near 90* angle. Yes a picture would help but I'm at work.

Hang on....

...painting....

See if this helps

I just did this little mod in about 15 minutes. It is amazing and works like a charm. I shot a match yesterday and missed reset several times and finally decided to give it a try. It feels like my Glock reset now.

Thanks Want2race!

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  • 2 years later...

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