TRUbor9 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 hell ive got one that i cant remember the last time i put a battery in it....its been several yrs btw... Well i don't know how you have managed that because I've replaced the batteries several times in mine :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansy Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 , hell ive got one that i cant remember the last time i put a battery in it....its been several yrs btw... Well I'm curious about the battery as well.....maybe your forget things sometime All kidding aside I go through quite a few battery's every year....so what give????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 hell ive got one that i cant remember the last time i put a battery in it....its been several yrs btw... Well i don't know how you have managed that because I've replaced the batteries several times in mine :/ Same here. I have to replace a battery every 2-3 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PINMAN44 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 has anybody had a cmore module break or crap on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansy Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Yes I had them fail on me but I could tell they were going ie; new battery and still a dim dot....pop a new module and voila.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PINMAN44 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 thanks boss I appreciate it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I had one that needed a battery about once a month, at the AASA Nationals after winning 18 rounds of man on man in the semi final it crapped out half way down the plate rack, but I managed to hit them with no dot, then the heart breaker the stop popper missed and lost. I sent it in, and got a call that the frame was cracked, the lens was pitted, the dot module was toast, and the rehostat was bad. I must have been like that when I bought the used gun, I only shot if for two years (20k rounds), anyway they took it as a trade in and for $153.00 I go a new one. Point is it was telling me for over a year that it was sick by needing all those batteries, I jsut wasn't listening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I just sent a slide ride in because the rheostat would only work wide open. They insisted I had a bad dot module and replaced the rheostat and dot module. Now it won't hold zero. I shot it in a match 2 weeks ago and it had shifted about 8 inches low and 3 to the left. I zeroed it Friday and shot a match on Saturday and it was off again. Its damn hard to shoot a Texas Star with a screwed up zero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calishootr Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 (edited) i dont shoot nearly as many matches as i used to anymore same with dry fire practice etc...even so back in the day where i burned 30k thru one in one yr i only replaced batteries in it once in the yr....guess i got a 'good' one??? the one that has a loose intensity knob has been off a gun for yrs an i bet i can go turn it on and it will still be somewhat bright??? which also begs the question of how often is it turned on/off??? are some of these extreme batt. useage happening because they are left on??? i know of more than one shooter that would tunr his on the first stage ofthe match and not turn it off till he bagged his gun to go home....me??? on at LAMR and off at ULSC... Edited December 16, 2010 by calishootr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 I cracked the body of my C-more by over tightening the windage/ elevation screws. Yep. That's right... I did it. I would PREFER that it not be that easy to crack, but I still ignored the instructions and overtightened. Seth do you mean the locking screws? Yes. The set screws can crack the body if you blatantly ignore the instructions and over tighten them. Who here reads instructions???? Just a quick update, I've shot my open gun once a week, every week since the 2010 Nationals and I'm still on my original 4-5 yr. old C-More Serendipity model. Havent had any problems out of this sight, not losing zero, no cracks in the legs ....... nothing. Thats at least 21 weeks of shooting approx. 75 rounds a week (3 stages per match). And not a single problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaGunner Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 After reading this thread I went and inspected my c-more on the used open gin I just bought and found a crack at the windage screw. I tried putting some jb weld in the crack, I hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loki999 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Hi, Mine also cracked at the windagesection and it wont hold zero anymore, after 10 rounds the windagescrew changes position. And ofcourse i have a match this weekend. What can i do? I read something about blue loctite, how does it work? take out the srew that holds the windagescrew and put loctite on it? The blue version of loctite is for plastic? Regards patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMC Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 For you guys who's scopes have cracked, both plastic and aluminum, what kind of mount was it on? I wonder if there's a pattern and if the mount contributes to the cracking. I had a plastic bodied C-More on an SV mount for years without any problems or loss of Zero. I replaced the plastic one with an aluminum bodied one on onthe same SV mount at the end of last year. Its only got about 1,000 rounds on it so far but everthing is hold up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loki999 Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Anyone on the blue loctite question one post above? How to aply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 The best cmore advice that I ever got was from TJ, in a class that I took, where he said that the majority of plastic cmores crack from having too much torque applied to the windage lock screw. The screw is wedge shaped and causes the stress. His solution was to never loosen or tighten the windage lock screw. Initially make sure that it snug (not tight) and then adjust the windage without loosening the screw. Have not broken nearly as many since I started using his method and broke a lot more before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 The blue version of loctite is for plastic? No, blue simply means it is removable with tools only, no heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaGunner Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 I decided that knowing that my c-more was cracked at the windage screw was going to drive me crazy wondering when it's going to lose zero. So I contacted c-more and they can switch the plastic body for $55 ,which is a whole lot better than buying a new one. Shipping it today,c-more said it could only take a few days to get it back to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loki999 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Thanks guys i will contact c-more, i dropped a drop of blue locktite on and behind the windagesrew i hope it will last this weekends match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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