Pro2AInPA Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 For you guys who have opened up the loading port on your SLP by grinding away receiver material, what in the hell did you use? I tried using the grinding stone attachments for the dremel, but they just fill up immediately with aluminum and become useless. I need help! I want it to look like this when I'm done: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24710 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Abrasives are NOT for Aluminum. Get some carbide burrs for the Dremel. And have patience with the process. You'll probably remove metal just as fast, or faster with a couple of good hand files. Of course there is a vertical milling machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 I don't have access to any fancy machinery unfortunately. I will try the other methods mentioned. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 Anyone else have any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GorillaTactical Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Anyone else have any suggestions? I was able to do mine with the stone attachment...Although I didn't take off nearly as much as you want to....I just opened up the angle slightly and smoothed the edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Use a sanding drum, it won't load up like a mounted point will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 I used a carbide burr on a die grinder to rough it out and a sanding drum on the dremel to finish it. Mine was a Benelli, but same idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 I used a carbide burr on a die grinder to rough it out and a sanding drum on the dremel to finish it. Mine was a Benelli, but same idea. I don't know what a die grinder is, but would a carbide burr on a dremel do the same thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 I used a carbide burr on a die grinder to rough it out and a sanding drum on the dremel to finish it. Mine was a Benelli, but same idea. I don't know what a die grinder is, but would a carbide burr on a dremel do the same thing? Carbide cutter for your Dremel: CLICK HERE Be careful with this...this cutter will cut very quickly and aggressively, throwing out very small, sharp chips that can stick in your skin. Also make sure it stays tight in the chuck, Carbide is slicker than the steel bits you normally use. It can move or pull out of the chuck while cutting if your are not cautious to to stop and re-tighten periodically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken hebert Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 slow speed on the dremel. speed is not your friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 Thanks everyone. On my way to Lowes now for a carbide cutter. I will post photos of the completed project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokshwn Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Don't forget the twelve pack....Some good beer, and a dremel = talented gunsmith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 (edited) I used a carbide burr on a die grinder to rough it out and a sanding drum on the dremel to finish it. Mine was a Benelli, but same idea. I don't know what a die grinder is, but would a carbide burr on a dremel do the same thing? A die grinder is a Dremel on STEROIDS! I would suggest you have the reciever in a vise when you start removing metal, rather than holding it between your knees. Edited September 26, 2010 by Dan Sierpina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 (edited) I did it and can now work on weak hand reloads without rubbing skin off of my thumb. My shotgun is no longer pretty but I couldn't care less. Function over form all day long. Edited September 27, 2010 by Pro2AInPA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogbert41 Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I had a thought today on the loading port when my finger finally got pinched. I've seen how a few have modified the loading lever by filling it in with metal to keep that "pinch" or finger stick from happening. But the fork is actually used to guide the shell into the chamber, so filling it in might actually be detrimental to dependablitiy. But what about cutting the fork LONGER? so that a finger or skinny thumb won't get trapped? That last picture up there shows where a grinding wheel could just easily lengthen the fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cold Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 (edited) Good lord! Still looks like a finger trap to me. Just with a side view. Keep us posted how it works out. Edited September 29, 2010 by cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 Good lord! Still looks like a finger trap to me. Just with a side view. Keep us posted how it works out. My issue was the receiver material rubbing skin off of the left side of my thumb during loading practice sessions. Removing all that material fixed that issue. I'm still planning on sending the trigger group to C-Rums to have the lifter welded to prevent the tip of my thumb from being trapped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug H. Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 For you guys who have opened up the loading port on your SLP by grinding away receiver material, what in the hell did you use? I tried using the grinding stone attachments for the dremel, but they just fill up immediately with aluminum and become useless. I need help! I want it to look like this when I'm done: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24710 I was looking at this thread and realized that the shotgun in the picture is mine! I used a cutting wheel on my Dremel and then smoothed the edges with a small sanding drum. I should have mentioned when I replied to your PM that it is a good idea to put tape or some kind of marking to indicate where to cut BEFORE starting. Also, don't cut so much that all the little parts inside start to fall out! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 For you guys who have opened up the loading port on your SLP by grinding away receiver material, what in the hell did you use? I tried using the grinding stone attachments for the dremel, but they just fill up immediately with aluminum and become useless. I need help! I want it to look like this when I'm done: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24710 I was looking at this thread and realized that the shotgun in the picture is mine! I used a cutting wheel on my Dremel and then smoothed the edges with a small sanding drum. I should have mentioned when I replied to your PM that it is a good idea to put tape or some kind of marking to indicate where to cut BEFORE starting. Also, don't cut so much that all the little parts inside start to fall out! Doug See above for photos. I used a carbibe cutter and sanding drums on mine. And I used the tape method! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Gaines Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 I didn't know you were allowed to take off that much material off your shotgun.hmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 I didn't know you were allowed to take off that much material off your shotgun.hmmmm Nothing in rule book about it as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GorillaTactical Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 I didn't know you were allowed to take off that much material off your shotgun.hmmmm Nothing in rule book about it as far as I know. Lol I'm pretty sure you only lose style points for making your shotgun look that ugly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 Bastard file, rat-tail file, sand-based abrasive stone on a drill, emery cloth, steel wool & PATIENCE! Projects in my past lives have been a teacher! Too much material too fast! Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted September 30, 2010 Author Share Posted September 30, 2010 I didn't know you were allowed to take off that much material off your shotgun.hmmmm Nothing in rule book about it as far as I know. Lol I'm pretty sure you only lose style points for making your shotgun look that ugly Style points mean nothin'. All that matters is the results of the match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Gaines Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 $30 dremel $5 dremel bits $9 12 pack of beer having too much time on your hands Priceless!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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