BigTinVA Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Is it common to use silicone spray as a case lube? I have seen guys put a handfull of loaded rounds into a ziplock bag with a silicone cloth and knead the bag before loading them into their magazines, but this is the first time I have heard of it being used as case lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryO Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Just a thought. Try using Teflon powder instead of any type of spray on case lube etc. Simply shake a little over your case feeder like if it was baby powder and load them up. Advantages: Clean, works just as well as case lube or better, doesn't evaporate or dry up, doesn't need to be cleaned off, inert material that has no effect on powder, cheap - a little goes a long, long way, did I mention clean - it's not sticky or gooey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardguy Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 For small volume rifle brass, I use a cheap micro fiber towel it works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkSmileyX Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Is it common to use silicone spray as a case lube? I have seen guys put a handfull of loaded rounds into a ziplock bag with a silicone cloth and knead the bag before loading them into their magazines, but this is the first time I have heard of it being used as case lube. Silicone spray doesn't work as well as regular case lube, it's better than nothing. It seems like dirt doesn't stick to it as badly as regular case lube. I've used spray teflon dry lube before too, it doesn't work as well as silicone spray imo. They both really are a compromise, they both require more effort when resizing than regular case lube. There is no way that I would use Silicone spray for rifle brass, i'd have the stuck case extractor real close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTinVA Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Is it common to use silicone spray as a case lube? I have seen guys put a handfull of loaded rounds into a ziplock bag with a silicone cloth and knead the bag before loading them into their magazines, but this is the first time I have heard of it being used as case lube. Silicone spray doesn't work as well as regular case lube, it's better than nothing. It seems like dirt doesn't stick to it as badly as regular case lube. I've used spray teflon dry lube before too, it doesn't work as well as silicone spray imo. They both really are a compromise, they both require more effort when resizing than regular case lube. There is no way that I would use Silicone spray for rifle brass, i'd have the stuck case extractor real close. Good to know. Thanks. I will just stick with One Shot aerosol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob DuBois Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Put it back in the case tumbler with corn cob media and a little Brasso for 30 to 45 min, maybe a little less if I'm loading lead rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Is it common to use silicone spray as a case lube? I have seen guys put a handfull of loaded rounds into a ziplock bag with a silicone cloth and knead the bag before loading them into their magazines, but this is the first time I have heard of it being used as case lube. Silicone spray doesn't work as well as regular case lube, it's better than nothing. It seems like dirt doesn't stick to it as badly as regular case lube. I've used spray teflon dry lube before too, it doesn't work as well as silicone spray imo. They both really are a compromise, they both require more effort when resizing than regular case lube. There is no way that I would use Silicone spray for rifle brass, i'd have the stuck case extractor real close. Good to know. Thanks. I will just stick with One Shot aerosol. Some day when you run out of One Shot, do yourself a favor and use some silicone spray exactly the way you use the OS. You might be pleasantly surprised. Like I said, I don't feel much if any difference in press operation unless I am running a U-die. In that case the OS is just a little better. You can get a huge can of silicone spray for the cost of OS. I keep OS on the bench as well and like it, but I save it for special occasions since I usually have to order it, pay shipping, etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavic09 Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 I have been using the Dillon spray lube and usually just leave it on my .223 rounds. They're a bit tacky to the touch but it doesn't seem to affect function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taipan Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I would like to say that I once tried Silicone spray on my 9mm cases and it worked well for about 50 rounds then the 1050 began to bind up and the cases had a scratch marks on them and it got to the point that I had to force the 1050 apart from the bullets. So I took out the cases that were left and cleaned them off and have not used Silicone again. Any tips on what I did wrong ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I'm sure someone will say what you did wrong was to use silicone. I use it with no problems. I had scratches on brass twice. One time the carbide ring was cracked and another time the die got brass shavings in it and caused scratches or grooves on the case walls. If I had to make a wild guess what happened for you I would say too much silicone. Probably made brass particles want to adhere to the case and or die. Once the shavings get stuck to the die they are tough to get off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emerson Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 I used silicone for a while. I didn't have any trouble with 9mm but I galled two different carbide dies while loading .45 ACP. I went back to One Shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Put it back in the case tumbler with corn cob media and a little Brasso for 30 to 45 min, maybe a little less if I'm loading lead rounds. Brasso? I thought it was ammonia based and as such was bad for brass as in made it brittle over time? Here's the trick to solve the loading mags problem... Go to walmart and get yourself some NuFinish Car wax (big Orange bottle)... About a tsp or small tbsp in per batch and you'll keep the dust down in the bowl, and your rounds will come out with silicone already on them, and nice and shinny. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassochist Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 i use brasso everytime in the tumbler, i tumble my brass for about 4 hours, and have reloaded my .38sa brass 123 times now, no probs at all with brass that become brittle. i never remove the case lube after reloading, and no probs at all, with shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle O Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 I use nufinish as well, and I tried a bunch of other stuff. It seems to be the best for me. After resizing rifle brass (use mobil 1 for that) I dump the brass in a beach towel, toss a couple of ounces of "Prep-all" on them, and tumble them manually. Clean as can be. Never had a failure after case gauging. Prep-all is used for getting everything off of metal before painting, I found it in the paint section at our local wally world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyburg Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Hell, I spray my rounds with silicon after I load them just before I place them in their little box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 (edited) I use Horandy One Shot as recommended by BE. Lay my 9mm brass on a old cookie sheet to give it a final once over culling out the .380 ACP I have missed on the first sort. I then spray a light misting of HOS, roll, spray another light mist, let dry for 5 minutes and load them up in the case hopper. I normally do not tumble off the lube, unless santioned match rounds. whe I take extra effort to double check. If I do tumble off the lube I use corncob treated in Nu-finish for about 10-15 minutes. BTW, I get 14/20 corncob... the exact same stuff Grainger supplys, but buy it from Drillspot.com http://www.drillspot.com/products/499763/econoline_526020g-40_40_lbs_blast_media Less than $22 for a 40 pound bag delivered to your door. Edited October 11, 2010 by Boxerglocker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroskg Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 i have been fighting this issue for awhile now . after using Dillon case lube i like how my under sizing process is so much smoother but it always left a film on the cases. maybe i was using to much because even after letting them sit for awhile sometimes next day the cases were still tacky and heaven forbid if there was some inside the case powder would stick to it and not allow an accurate powder measurement to my scale because some was still stuck inside the case. have tried the carb cleaner/brake cleaner but worried about flammable residue, gallon milk jug liquid dish soap hot hot water shake for several minutes and rinse well only problem had to let the cases dry over night next tried an ultrasonic cleaner it got the lube film off and some carbon build up but same thing had to rinse and let sit over night to dry. tried the tumbler with corn cob or walnut now i end up with media stuck to the inside of the cases and primer holes. the search is still on for a better way guess i will try less lube or give the silicon way a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now