Taipan

I am hoping to get some advice on a problem that I am having with Lapua brass. The problems is that when I load it on the Super 1050,every now and then the loaded round will not let the bolt of my rifle close. Is this a common problem with this brass? I have the die set as per the manual maybe even a little harder than it should be. The length of the round is well within the reloading manuals Recommendations. I have used this press to load .270 and never had this problem with it. Should I try and wind the sizing/depriming die down even more or should, I use some other die rather than the Dillon Die. Thanks in advance to any reply

Thanks for the replies but I am not using stick powder in my press and to the best of my knowledge my speed on the handle is constant and smooth. The casting of the powder hopper has a burr on it and the Bell Crank hits on that same spot every time but sometimes with a fair deal of force when it catches it for some reason and the whole powder hopper jolts with the force. I really don't want to take to the Bellcrank with a pair of vise grips or file if the is another way to fix this problem without bending anything. Regards and Thanks to any replies.

Has anyone had this happen to them, On my 1050 Super the Bell crank every now and then hits the body of the powder measure with real force enough to give the whole assembly a violent jolt on looking to see what has happend the body of the powder measure has a burr on it from where the Bellcrank has hit it. Now I know there is supposed to be some contact but every now and then it really hits it hard should I bend the Bell Crank out a little or file some of the piece that is hitting the body of the powder hopper. One of my main worries is if I bend the Bell Crank it might throw everything out of whack and cause me problems with correct powder throws. Any advice on this would be most welcome

I would like to ask for some help on how members check their 38 special cases to make sure they have powder in them. The press I am using a Super 1050 and for the life of me can not work out how I can visually check to see if I have powder in the case I have a clip on light that works great for 9mm but the 38 cases are much harder to see into . Dillon I know make a powder check system and I do use that but I would also like to know if there is a set-up that works using good old eyesight and if so any details on how to set it up would be most welcome. Many thanks to any replies

Hi here are a few things to have a look at have you made the shellplate to tight this sometimes slows down the indexing and brings the slot in the shellplate too close to the primers causing them to flip. Have you had a jam that may have caused the timing to have moved Dillon have a tool that they will send you for free to set your primer/shellplate alignment. The only other thing that springs to mind right now could be that your retaining tab that holds the case in place could also be out of adjustment. Just a few thoughts that I hope will help

Hi just thought that this might help buyers of new 1050 Super I just got my new 1050 which was set up to load some 38 special and after checking powder levels etc and cycling the press a couple of times to make sure everything was working okay I put some shells into the casefeeder. Loaded some primers and got ready to turn out some rounds well the first couple were fine except for the fact that they had way too much powder in them but that is an easy fix after I had the right amount of powder in my cases I ran the press only to find that I was feeding 2 primers at the same time one would be seated and the other thrown out the back of the press. Now I had a fair idea what the problem was and went about checking it out someone at Dillon must have had an extra helping of cereal because the knurled nut that holds the primer tube in place was so tight that I needed both hands and a rag to undo it and when I checked the blue primer tube tip it was well and truly crushed so I replaced it with a spare that I had for my other 1050 and most of my primer issues went away. I still have the odd primer problem with this press but I am sure a bit of fine tuning will fix all my problems. Just wanted to give anyone thinking of buying a new press soon something to look at and maybe order some of those magazine tips in advance just in case the Hulk at Dillon has done this more than once

Well I have to admit that I have set off both a 650 and a 1050 primer tube and to this day not sure as to why but take my word for it if you must have a primer detonation(and no I don't recommend you try it ) the press to have it on is a 1050 the 650 detonation was made far worse by the Daisy Chain effect. Not only that but you are very close to the primer tube when it goes off on a 650 not so much on a 1050 and when you talk to Dillon they can tell you without you naming the parts you will need to get the 1050 running again in no time flat on the 650 they ask you what you need. Just my 2cents worth.

Hi just wanted to find out if anyone else has had this problem with the Perspex plate on the front of their casefeeder mine has completely cracked and fallen to bits (and no I did not hit it with a hammer ) My press is only about 8 months old and when I first noticed there were cracks forming I rang Dillon and asked to have a replacement sent out to me which they did so when the original fell apart to the point that it could not be repaired I would not have to wait for it to be shipped. Well on Thursday the Perspex funnel did fall apart I replaced it with the new one but guess what it to is now showing hair line cracks in the funnel area I also have a 650 and it is at least three years old and has not got any cracks in its Perspex case plate. When I replaced the Perspex funnel plate I went out of my way to make sure I did not overtighten any thing just nipped it up nothing more. Has anyone else had this happen to them ?

Well sad to say that the second spring I fitted has also failed even more so than the first one The toolhead now stops just above my 9mm cases to the point where you could not put a projectile on the case. I have fitted a 3rd spring and hope that it is not from the same batch as the last 2. Awhile ago I asked members of this forum what spares I should get for my Super 1050 and thanks to their advice I ordered spare toolhead springs. If I had not taken their advice when the first one failed I would have had to wait for it to arrive down here anywhere from 5-14 days many thanks to them for the heads up. But now I feel I should have ordered a dozen of them, my press is stock standard with no other things on it to add extra weight to the spring. Just maybe Dillon can talk to the company who makes these springs for them and get them to check the quality control. Because I don't think I will be the last person to have these springs fail in such a short time. To anyone thinking of buying a Super 1050 by all means do so just make sure you have spare toolhead springs on hand just in case you have my rotten luck. Regards

Thanks for the replies guys will do some research on items mentioned. Just keep those tips and advice coming I need all the info I can lay my hands on. Regards and Thanks

Hi I would like to get some input from forum members, who load .308 rounds on their 1050's. A few friends and I want to start shooting 308's to the point where we would use about 150-200 rounds on a weekend. What I would like to know is if the 1050 would load a decent round for our purposes I am not talking about desexing a fly at a 1000 meters just a basic target/hunting round. I have heard that the Dillon powder hoppers do not like stick powders at all and people have added things like fish tank pumps to the powder hopper to get the powder to fall consistently. Ball powders are supposed to be better but are very finicky when it comes to weather changes. Which is the best case lube for these cases in the 1050 I have read of cases getting stuck in dies when using One Shot Case lube should I stick to Imperial sizing wax to avoid this problem? Any tips/advice /warnings would be most welcome Regards and Thanks

As stated in one of my other postings the rep I spoke to said that the toolhead spring was not covered by warranty even if the press was only 6 moths old which sort of put a dent in their 12 month no BS warranty.

Well I did phone Dillon back and spoke to one of their customer support reps and he after going through all the items listed above and telling him that the press has no extras on it he said that he had no idea why the the springs failed. So I guess I am stuck with this problem until Dillon realize that they do have a fault with this current batch of springs or I find a spring from another supplier that will hold it tension. To be honest I am a bit peeved as I thought that I would have gotten a lot more rounds out of this press before things started to fail,sure things will go wrong from time to time some of it user error and some just plain old wear and tear. But 2 Toolhead springs in less than 6 months has me wondering what else may fail in the near future. Regards

The Super 1050 is a great press but when things like this go wrong it is frustrating,because there is nothing we the users can do to fix the problem other than just keep buying spares until Dillon fixes the fault.

I hope they do because when both my springs were new they returned the handle with an action that had to be slowed down, but now even the second spring has lost the snap feeling and has to be returned to the resting position where it sags forward at least 2 inches . I would like my springs to last 25,000 rounds before they sag and I would be more than happy with them then. Lets hope Dillon do find out about this fault and post that they have fixed it here in this forum. I would hate to have a collection of springs from the 1050 Super that have failed