1911 recoil spring

[Mattog22]

What is the most common recoil spring weight and manufacturer for the full size 1911 .45? I am shooting 4.0 gr of clays under a 230 gr fmj bullet. I must be an idiot because Im sure this has been asked before but the search function doesn't give me any related results.

Thanks,

Matt

[CocoBolo]

What is the most common recoil spring weight and manufacturer for the full size 1911 .45? I am shooting 4.0 gr of clays under a 230 gr fmj bullet. I must be an idiot because Im sure this has been asked before but the search function doesn't give me any related results.

Thanks,

Matt

I run a 14# in mine, but shoot 200gr with 4.3gr of clays, about the same PF. If you check this months Front Site Bob (the Brazos Guy) recommends 15-18#. With minor loads I run a 12#.

[Mattog22]

Isn't stock 16# anyway? So I shouldn't replace the stock one with my 4 gr Clays/230 gr load?

Edited June 8, 2010 by Mattog22

[dsmw5142]

When you change recoil spring weights, I think you have to change main springs also?? I'm not sure what the purpose for this is though. I'm sure someone else knows?

[Mattog22]

When you change recoil spring weights, I think you have to change main springs also?? I'm not sure what the purpose for this is though. I'm sure someone else knows?

yes, this would be good to know, thanks

[Kevin G.]

When you change recoil spring weights, I think you have to change main springs also?? I'm not sure what the purpose for this is though. I'm sure someone else knows?

I am no 1911 expert, but I run a 14# recoil spring with the same load of TG and 230gr RN as the OP. The mainspring I run came with a trigger kit and seems to work fine anywhere from light loads all the way up to full power loads using an 18# recoil spring.

I guess if you are tuning a race gun it might be beneficial to balance the mainspring weight to the other trick parts to avoid robbing slide speed. With a .45 you should be fine with the stock mainspring. Lightening the MS too much can and will cause light primer strikes.

[Will_M]

You don't have to change the mainspring if you change recoil springs.

The mainspring's primary function is to make the hammer fall to slap the firing pin. That being said, most of us shooting 1911 style guns will play with different mainspring weights to tune the way the slide opens. A heavier mainspring will retard the slide's opening, and increase muzzle flip. A lighter will increase slide speed. A lot of guys also like to angle the base of the firing pin stop to adjust the way the slide interacts with the hammer upon opening.

There's no "better" or "worse," it's all individual taste.

JMHO.

Edited June 8, 2010 by Will_M

[Singlestack]

I run a 14# recoil spring and a 19# mainspring.

[CocoBolo]

Isn't stock 16# anyway? So I shouldn't replace the stock one with my 4 gr Clays/230 gr load?

You may use the stock spring no problem. You change recoil springs to change how the gun feels when shot. I like a little lighter recoil spring which hits harder in the palm and the slide moves faster. A heavier spring slows the slide down and causes a little more flip at the begining of recoil but less at the end of the stroke. It is all about preference. The stock spring is for 180-190pf at 16x pf a lighter spring could make it feel better. If your gun is new run it with the stock spring for 1,000 rounds till it is broken in then try different spring for feel.

Replace the recoil spring every 5K rounds, and the little spring in the package is a firing pin spring change that as well, especially if you dry fire a lot.

The main spring is for the trigger, you only change that when working on the trigger.

Radius the firing pin block takes the edge off the flip when the slide strikes the hammer. Also makes it easier to rack the slide.

[ParaGunner]

I run a 14ld recoil spring and a 19lb mainspring in my 45 1911

[steel1212]

I run a 14ld recoil spring and a 19lb mainspring in my 45 1911

14# recoil and 17#MS for me. You have to make sure your primers are seated well.

[calishootr]

I was thinking a 'stock' weight for a recoil spring on a .45 was somewhere in the 18lb range, but noone i know in USPSA circles runs that kind of spring for long, usually its in the 14 to 16lb range, i know i'll takesome heatfor this fromthe anto shok-buff crowd, you can install a shok-buff and see just how much your load is affecting said spring, if the buff is chewed??? usually need more spring(unless you like the lack of muzzle flip and are prepared to buy a new frame) if it just kisses the buff your there

[Bob DuBois]

16lb recoil spring and a 17lb mainspring works for me in a 45 five inch.

[Mattog22]

Since my reloads aren't too hot I should be fine with a 14# recoil spring. What is the standard mainspring weight? 19#? Are ISMI or Wolff recommended and why?

Edited June 8, 2010 by Mattog22

[Glockcomma]

Since my reloads aren't too hot I should be fine with a 14# recoil spring. What is the standard mainspring weight? 19#? Are ISMI or Wolff recommended and why?

Factory standard mainspring is 23#, I run a 17# mainspring and a 14# recoilspring.

Tim

[The Happy Gila]

Government length 1911's use a 16 or 16.5# recoil spring (Ed Browns come with a 18#) and a 24 # main spring.

Commander length 1911's use a 18# recoil spring (Ed Browns come with a 20#) and a 24# main spring.

It just depends on what length you're shooting to figure out what spring works best for which load in your gun.

I shoot a Government length Ed Brown and went with a 15# recoil and 21# main spring to drive my loads (usually 4.9-5.0gr of N320 w/ 230 ball).

My advice is to only change the recoil spring in your gun to start with, when you mess with the mainspring you're messing with the timing...and that can be another whole can of worms by it's self. Besides, when I changed my main spring, I noticed very, VERY little difference in the performance of the gun.

good luck

THG

[LT45]

I run a 14ld recoil spring and a 19lb mainspring in my 45 1911

14# recoil and 17#MS for me. You have to make sure your primers are seated well.

I too run a 14# recoil and a 17# main spring. However, I started getting light strikes. Thinking I was have the occasional high primer, I started examining every round. When the problem continued, I opted to try a softer primer. Guess what... problem solved 100%. I went from Winchester to Federal Gold Medal Match. I love the timing I've got with 200g bullets and N320.

[Mattog22]

What exactly are you guys referring to when you talk about timing? I understand that it has to do with the slide lockup and release when a round is fired but can anyone be a little more specific as in how different spring rates effect timing and how you know if you have correct timing? What is considered optimal?

[LT45]

What exactly are you guys referring to when you talk about timing? I understand that it has to do with the slide lockup and release when a round is fired but can anyone be a little more specific as in how different spring rates effect timing and how you know if you have correct timing? What is considered optimal?

Timing of an auto pistol is: The time it takes the slide to complete one cycle, and how it feels while doing so.

There are quite a few things that can change the timing. Springs (recoil and main), the weight of the slide, guide rod weight, type of load (powder type and weight, bullet type and weight) the heavier the bullet, the softer the felt recoil impulse and the timing is slower. Lighter bullets with a bit more powder have a sharper or snappier feel and the slide cycles faster.

Ultimately, you want the pistol recoil impulse to be comfortable to you, you want the front sight to return to the same point of aim before you broke the shot. All these variables need to be fine tuned to your liking. When you find the right combination, you will have the timing custom tailored to what works and feels the best for you.

Edited June 16, 2010 by LT45

[Mattog22]

LT45, thanks for the good explanation. So the correct timing is what is correct for me. I just put in the 14# recoil spring and will try it out this weekend. I think it will definitely help since I was having trouble with the gun dipping down from the slide going back into battery after each shot.

[G-ManBart]

Replace the recoil spring every 5K rounds, and the little spring in the package is a firing pin spring change that as well, especially if you dry fire a lot.

The main spring is for the trigger, you only change that when working on the trigger.

I think those figures are a bit conservative. I'm at exactly 11,746 rounds on the recoil spring in one of my guns (as well as mainspring, and firing pin spring. After the next two matches I'm going to replace the recoil spring just because (no changes right before big matches). Another gun had 15K on the springs and I just put a new recoil spring in it. Neither one shows any sign of parts being battered. I'm switching to simply replacing them once each year at the beginning of the season.

Most springs don't seem to come with a firing pin spring in the package now. I've got one gun with a firing pin spring that's north of 65K (with many times more cycles of dry fire) and the recoil spring is at least half that...still runs fine, no battering of anything. Based on some info I found here, I'm switching all my 1911/2011s over to Springco springs...better QC and testing on them. Most of the big names rate springs by wire material, diameter and heat treating, not on actual testing.

Edited June 17, 2010 by G-ManBart

[slickmix]

Iam no 1911 expert either, but I run a 14# recoil spring with the same load of TG and 230gr RN. The mainspring I run is 17 lbs. Like some else said make sure the primers are seeded very well and I have had zero issue. Works well with light loads and major too!

[BOGA]

I use 14# RS and 19# MS

[Mattog22]

Well, I put in a 17# mainspring and a 14# recoil spring for the match yesterday. The recoil was improved. I had no light strikes in about 120 rounds but I am using federal primers. I also tried running a Wilson combat shok buff. It ran fine but another guy shooting a 1911 said the cp ones will not get chewed up as fast. He warned me about battering my slide using the 14# recoil spring even with my barely major pf loads.

[wide45]

Replace the recoil spring every 5K rounds, and the little spring in the package is a firing pin spring change that as well, especially if you dry fire a lot.

The main spring is for the trigger, you only change that when working on the trigger.

I think those figures are a bit conservative. I'm at exactly 11,746 rounds on the recoil spring in one of my guns (as well as mainspring, and firing pin spring. After the next two matches I'm going to replace the recoil spring just because (no changes right before big matches). Another gun had 15K on the springs and I just put a new recoil spring in it. Neither one shows any sign of parts being battered. I'm switching to simply replacing them once each year at the beginning of the season.

Most springs don't seem to come with a firing pin spring in the package now. I've got one gun with a firing pin spring that's north of 65K (with many times more cycles of dry fire) and the recoil spring is at least half that...still runs fine, no battering of anything. Based on some info I found here, I'm switching all my 1911/2011s over to Springco springs...better QC and testing on them. Most of the big names rate springs by wire material, diameter and heat treating, not on actual testing.

Wolff springs are the ones that used to come with the firing pin springs. I no longer use Wolff, because I never got more than a few thousand rounds out of them. The firing pin springs would start chipping after about 10 thousand.