olp73 Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 I have a compensator with a cone that is treaded on to the barrel and loctited in place with green loctite. I want to use gunkote on the comp and cone but wonder if the loctite can withstand the heat when I "cock "the gunkote? I know it will loosen up there and then, but will it go back to its former state when it cools off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 The loctite will require around 400 degrees to break. If the temp for the coating exceeds that, I'd loctite it after the paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olp73 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) The loctite will require around 400 degrees to break. If the temp for the coating exceeds that, I'd loctite it after the paint job. We are talking Fahrenheit I guess? If so the coating needs 320 degrees to harden, I should be fine then. When you say "break" what does that mean exactly? Edited June 4, 2010 by olp73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) Yes, the temperatures are Fahrenhiet. By "break" that's the temperature that the loctite breaks down and you can remove the part. When I've had to remove parts, I used a propane torch to get it hot enough. Edited June 4, 2010 by Dan Sierpina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Smith Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Silly question here, but how is Green Loctite different from Blue or Red? I know that Blue is medium strength and Red is high strength. The only things I know about Green is that it's not Blue or Red and it's supposed to be applied "to the nut-bolt seam AFTER assembly" as opposed to the other two which are applied during assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfinney Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 All iI know is I had this exact problem with a bake on finish on an open gun, the comp started turning after the finish was applied. Better safe than sorry, re loc-titie it after baking would be my advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Blue Loctite is removable, red isn't supposed to be, I don't know about green. From the web: First off, there are three standard Loctite grades. The first grade is coded Blue Removable No.242 which is applied to fasteners that you may want to unscrew with minimal hassle. Most mechanics just call it Blue Loctite, and I've had one or two guys who have worked at Surgical Steeds, who will remain nameless, call it "Berry". The second grade is coded Red High-Strength No.271 which is applied to fasteners that you don't want to take apart for a long time. When you do want to remove a fastener that has been treated with Red, or "Cherry" Loctite, you may have to use heat from a torch or iron to loosen its grip. Then we get to the third grade, which is dyed Green and is used on fasteners or studs that you don't want to ever remove, like cylinder studs or exhaust studs. Green is not used commonly on fasteners that the everyday motorcycle technician uses unless they are building motors or transmissions. The average consumer or weekend wrench won't need a tube of Green Loctite in their toolbox. Even the guys around the shop haven't found a goofy name for the green stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 For compensators the green variants (Retaining Compounds) are prefered. Even those seem to be degraded if the shooter uses a lot of Break Free on the cone/barrel. No theory on that one, just experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Even the guys around the shop haven't found a goofy name for the green stuff. Green Death! Once it's on, it's on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.J. Norris Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 One must remember that there are two kinds of green loctite. The first (I forget the numbers), is a wicking grade that you can apply after assembly and will hold comparable to blue. The other green is an extremely thick, "retaining compound" that holds harder and to higher temps then red, and does NOT like to come loose, especially if applied with the loctite primer... This is usually what is applied to comps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 There are more than 2 green Loctite variations. 290 is the wicking version. I have 680 and 608 also. That's just scratching the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schroed Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 and one more: Loctite - 272 Threadlocker Red High Temp/High Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussB Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 There are many different types of loctite. Many of the Green one's are for cylindrical parts, with different heat and tolerance specification. One needs to be specific when discussing Loc-Tite products Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calishootr Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 I pulled out the carbide insert to a 38 super die yrs an yrs ago, applied some ofthe green stud an bearing mount, whacked it back into place...let it set overnite....some 10 or 15 yrs later and thousands of rounds loaded....no problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 The Green Loc-Tite that most use for comp installation is called 540 Stud and Bearing Mount. It requires some serious heat to get it off. Back when Les Baer was building comp guns, he told me about some stuff that was even stronger. It was black, made by Loc-Tite, and was some time of "marine-grade" something.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninefan Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 The open guns always seem to use loc-tite for the comps, but the AR15 guys are using Rocksett for the comps & suppressor mounts. I don't know how well Rocksett would do in the open gun comp application. I have Rocksett on my AR comp and also on my gas block clamp screws & gas block adjustment screw. So far so good on those. The actual gas block is held on with the 620 Green loc-tite for slip joint applications along with some of the 7471 primer. It isn't going anywhere! (God help me if I ever need to disassemble that upper...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Black Max loctite is used for bonding steel to steel, it does work great but is very expensive and a very short set time. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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