Matrix68 Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Flexmoney...when I am ready to make a part purchase, I usually hit all the usual places...ie, Midway, Brownells, Numrich, even Gunbroker (got some killer deals on part here)...if they are a no go, I just call up Ruger parts department, tell them what I am looking for and they have shipped them to me (if they are in stock). With that said...again, I have never purchased a frame (doubt they would sell one anyway), nor have I ever purchased a barrel or complete trigger guard assembly. But, springs, pins, hammers, hammer dogs, etc. I have sometime over the past 2 or 3 years purchased them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ty Hamby Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 This has been a great read. I do have a question about this hammer. I recently picked up this 627 to replace my dash4. I had intended to cut up the pro hammer much like I did with my 627-4. This hammer however looks totally different than any of the other frame mounted firring pin Pro hammers I have yet seen. The 27-7 hammer (blued hammer in picture) is exactly like every other N-Frame Pro hammer I have. With this one being different I have to ask the question. 1) Will any other frame mounted fireing pin N-frame hammer work in this gun? 2) Am I good to just cut away the Stainless factory hammer out of this JM627 or would it be difficult to find a replacement in the future? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOvalBandit Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 1) Will any other frame mounted fireing pin N-frame hammer work in this gun? That hammer is a bit odd looking.... that little "lip" is huge. But yes any frame mounted firing pin N-frame hammer will work. I bought a new mim hammer to chop and kept the original, just get a new mim DA sear and corresponding spring with it, takes about 5 seconds to polish & fit compared to the pinned sears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 This has been a great read. I do have a question about this hammer. I recently picked up this 627 to replace my dash4. I had intended to cut up the pro hammer much like I did with my 627-4. This hammer however looks totally different than any of the other frame mounted firring pin Pro hammers I have yet seen. The 27-7 hammer (blued hammer in picture) is exactly like every other N-Frame Pro hammer I have. With this one being different I have to ask the question. 1) Will any other frame mounted fireing pin N-frame hammer work in this gun? 2) Am I good to just cut away the Stainless factory hammer out of this JM627 or would it be difficult to find a replacement in the future? Dude, nice gun! That's one of the early Lew Horton 6.5" barrelled 627s, which is a rare and desirable variation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ty Hamby Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Dude, nice gun! That's one of the early Lew Horton 6.5" barreled 627s, which is a rare and desirable variation. Well then, would you cut away this hammer or find another hammer. The hammer installed looks Frankenstein-ish. The gun will probably live its entire life,eventually dieing on an ICORE field (or USPSA if things change). I don't know if it matters much about cutting this one up, or throwing another Pro hammer in there that I then cut that one up. Or maybe just call Apex and install one of there's. What are your thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Cut it up and make what you want as I know for a fact that there is only 199 out of 200 left as I made one into a 38 short colt only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ty Hamby Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 How was that? How do you turn it into a short colt only? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Dude, nice gun! That's one of the early Lew Horton 6.5" barreled 627s, which is a rare and desirable variation. Well then, would you cut away this hammer or find another hammer. The hammer installed looks Frankenstein-ish. The gun will probably live its entire life,eventually dieing on an ICORE field (or USPSA if things change). I don't know if it matters much about cutting this one up, or throwing another Pro hammer in there that I then cut that one up. Or maybe just call Apex and install one of there's. What are your thoughts? I don't know if a regular N-frame would work, or if a Randy hammer would work. Guess you could figure it out pretty quickly! Those were the very first centerfire S&W revolvers (other than maybe those weird Model 53s) to have the frame-mounted firing pin system, and the version they used on those early guns may not be the same as current production. If you're going to shoot the gun a bunch (and I would if it were mine), I'd go ahead and cut it down. But that's me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 How was that? How do you turn it into a short colt only? I put a 38 super barrel on it, cut the cylinder back to 38 short colt length and extended the forcing cone. Hence the only round that will shoot through this is a short colt. I would post a picture but I will not be home for 2 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Dude, nice gun! That's one of the early Lew Horton 6.5" barreled 627s, which is a rare and desirable variation. Well then, would you cut away this hammer or find another hammer. The hammer installed looks Frankenstein-ish. The gun will probably live its entire life,eventually dieing on an ICORE field (or USPSA if things change). I don't know if it matters much about cutting this one up, or throwing another Pro hammer in there that I then cut that one up. Or maybe just call Apex and install one of there's. What are your thoughts? I don't know if a regular N-frame would work, or if a Randy hammer would work. Guess you could figure it out pretty quickly! Those were the very first centerfire S&W revolvers (other than maybe those weird Model 53s) to have the frame-mounted firing pin system, and the version they used on those early guns may not be the same as current production. If you're going to shoot the gun a bunch (and I would if it were mine), I'd go ahead and cut it down. But that's me. I put an apex hammer in my other 6.5 627 and it worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ty Hamby Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Thanks for the info guys. I got so much 38super ammo loaded it may be a while till i get to this one. I have one apex job Ti cylinder, the works , and another 627 carmonized. I did my own 627 using a Carmonized gun I got as a guide. Came out well. I have a new Ti cylinder to go in this one and don't think i have the skills to cut the star myself. So this one will probably get sent off to Scott at Apex. Thanks for all the inspiration over the years to start gathering unique icore guns. Also just picked up another 27-7. The hunt and quest is almost as fun as the prize. Next i might buy an unobtainable USPSA holy grail revolver, once i figure out what that it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) Today I put the stock hammer back in one of my 327s and " carmonized " it. Start weight w/ stirrup and sear : 33.33 Final (so far ) : 16.98 took 16.35 g off.... little less then 50% reduction I think..... This enough or should I aim to lose a little more weight? Also, while i'm here, maybe somebody can tell me about this. I've noticed that after a few trigger pulls the hand works its way outwards a little bit, I assume it's settling in it's " straight " position... but leaves a bit of a gap between the hand and trigger... Is this normal ? Should I shim the trimmer and hammer up to close the gap between the hand and trigger? thanks Edited May 1, 2013 by alecmc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 should I aim to lose a little more weight? eh...from where would you take it? I probably would've left that vertical rib just below the upper nose of the hammer - that area likely gets stressed upon hammer strike, yet it gets pretty thin when the hammer's Carmonized, so the rib would likely help strengthen it. Otherwise, nice job. Range report soon, eh? As to the hand, all sorts of things move & shift when the sideplate's off. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 should I aim to lose a little more weight? eh...from where would you take it? I probably would've left that vertical rib just below the upper nose of the hammer - that area likely gets stressed upon hammer strike, yet it gets pretty thin when the hammer's Carmonized, so the rib would likely help strengthen it. Otherwise, nice job. Range report soon, eh? As to the hand, all sorts of things move & shift when the sideplate's off. Tom I lost the rib on the side you see because it was non existent on the opposite side, figure i'd mirror the sides best I can. Granted, I did opt to shave off the ribs on the ' front ' side. If I were to take out more it'd probably be from the recessed section right below the pin for the hammer and to the left of the sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Remember that, at some point, the hammer can get so light that 2 things quickly start working against you. First, with less mass comes less momentum. Generally a good thing, since it's momentum that jars the muzzle upon hammer strike. But it's also momentum also overcomes internal friction, so the lighter the hammer, the more perfect the action will need to be, lest it start slowing down and causing reliability issues. Second, at some point, the speed of the hammer will max out, so lightening the hammer further will start to decrease reliability. And further lightening the spring tension at this point will radically decrease reliability. I suppose you could increase spring tension, but that kinda defeats the purpose of such aggressive tuning, no? I suppose you could hollow out that recessed section you mentioned (i.e. behind the sear), but the area right below it is stressed during both the trigger pull and return. I'll admit I don't know where the point of diminishing returns lies (Carmoney? Warren?), but seems like what you've got now is a reasonable balance of weight & speed. JMHO. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I'll admit I don't know where the point of diminishing returns lies (Carmoney? Warren?), but seems like what you've got now is a reasonable balance of weight & speed. JMHO. Tom I'm not much of a scientist--I just chop until it looks right! Seems like I'm taking away roughly half the factory stock weight of the hammer. I would say that Alec's looks just fine. The most important thing to remember: Hammer spurs are for midnight cowboys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 There you go gettin Otis involved again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 It was ALMOST perfect Went just a HAIR too deep on the right side, and cut into that stupid hollowed out part on the s&w hammer. Works good, but that little nick missing on the side is really bothering me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 ^^^^^^^^^^ Wonder if I can mig weld it up a little bit on the side and upward to fill in , then re contour... Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) It will take a lot of weld to build up enough to re contour, but doable. I would build up on the bottom side and keep the same contour on top. The hand often sits a little right of the trigger - that is pretty normal. Edited February 3, 2014 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 It will take a lot of weld to build up enough to re contour, but doable. The hand often sits a little right of the trigger - that is pretty normal. Thinking I might try to build up a little mig weld just to fill it in, I know it's just aesthetics, but I just cant stop staring at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I don't think you'll ever be able to make it look right with weld added. You'd probably be money (time) ahead starting over on another hammer. I got a better idea.......how about grinding it into a smooth contour, then removing material from the same place on the opposite side of the hammer to make it symmetrical? That would give it a cool sorta wasp-waisted look. Or, if you don't need to keep the ILS functional, just do a full Carmonize job and cut off that whole back part completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I like Mikes idea, if asked it is a force multiplier by reducing drag through aerodynamics therefor increasing hammer fall! You can even claim that after exhaustive testing you found a .2 LB reduction in Action Weight. Then sit back and see if others copy your new technique and how far they take it. The MC Swiss Sliced Hammer If nothing else gives everyone something more to play with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 The MIM parts tig weld nicely. I was curious and tried it, welding together a couple of the hammer "leftovers". I don't see why it would be difficult to put a little metal in the area that was broken thru. However it might be easier to start with another hammer and fill that area before you start grinding. Using mig would be like using a 4 lb hammer as a fly swatter. Tig would be far better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidSnethkamp Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I just recently bobbed my 627 hammer and was wondering, since Smith flash chromes them at the factory, is there any need to coat the bobbed hammer? I polished the cut contour to a mirror finish and really hate to do anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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