RickyH Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 what size ultra-sonic should you get and heated or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aglifter Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Not on a comp, but I've had good results using ballistol to get the carbon build-up out of my P7's gas cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtis108 Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 what size ultra-sonic should you get and heated or not? http://lrultrasonics.com/hcs200orders/ This should work for an open gun. L&R is the only brand I have experience with. I had three at work 2 heated and 1 not heated. Heated is more efficient. Non heated will do the same job, eventually. As far as size goes, get the biggest you can afford. You will use it to clean everything once you get started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perf40 Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 I use a dremel vibro etching tool. I replaced the carbide tip with a piece of brass rod. You can grind a point or a chisel end on a piece about 2 inches long. They wear out quickly so I prepare about 5 pieces before I start cleaning. I use a belt sander and a dremel tool to sharpen the brass. I put the rod in the dremel and hold it at an angle against the belt sander. Sharpened in about 5 seconds. If you have a lot of powder fouling to remove, you can use a piece of drill rod, but you have to grind a 1/32" radius on the end of a sharpened rod or else you could actually vibro etch the comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgunz11 Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 See my dealer forum for more info on the L&R ultrasonic cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Spent the last few minutes reading the search results. Ok, given that most were old. Anyone found anything that works better than the dental pick approach and maybe some KG1? I've got Loctited Comps and don't want to use anything that might loosen them. There must be something that ok for loctite and will help loose the crud? It's mostly carbon as I'm shooting solid based JHP's...or CMJ's Thanks for reading, Alan Brake cleaner works GREAT! it never messed with my old comped guns comp (which was loctited) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 I use a 50/50 solution of vinager and hydrogen peroxide. Let it soak overnight and all carbon just wipes or rinses out. Just be careful as this solution will remve paint or blueing. Only use on stainless steel. Hammer that is a very dangerous solution your using. I tried that in a stanless steel barrel and the instructions were no more than 15 minutes, well I got a call from work and spent an hour on the phone with them fixing a problem. When I got back to the barrel and rinsed it out it had pitted it. I was out $140 for a barrel and another $120 to have my smith fit it. You got that right!! Just for giggles take a small pill bottle with the 50/50 mix in it and drop in a small/fine pitch screw with the black oxide type finish, another screw of the stainless steel kind and let them set for a week. When the week is up see which one, if either, still has threads on it. When I was using this set up I never left the solution sit for more than 10 minutes before washing with hot water then checking to see if the part needed another dunking. Not worth all the risk if you ask me. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyH Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 (edited) are titanium comps ok in the 50/50 ? Edited July 19, 2010 by RickyH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 are titanium comps ok in the 50/50 ? I will have to see if I can find some scrap Ti parts and see if the 50/50 mix affects the metal any, not something I have heard of before but you never know. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DyNo! Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Would an ultrasonic cleaner like this work for small parts and pistol barrels? http://cgi.ebay.com/GEMORO-SPARKLE-SPA-PERSONAL-ULTRASONIC-JEWELRY-CLEANER-/230410743769?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a58cefd9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 Would an ultrasonic cleaner like this work for small parts and pistol barrels? http://cgi.ebay.com/GEMORO-SPARKLE-SPA-PERSONAL-ULTRASONIC-JEWELRY-CLEANER-/230410743769?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a58cefd9 I am not sure I would use it to clean a comped barrel, it would likely damage the thread locking compound and the comp would come lose. I have not tested this but with two parts weighing different amounts and both vibrating it would stand to reason it could be an issue. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DyNo! Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 (edited) Would an ultrasonic cleaner like this work for small parts and pistol barrels? http://cgi.ebay.com/GEMORO-SPARKLE-SPA-PERSONAL-ULTRASONIC-JEWELRY-CLEANER-/230410743769?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a58cefd9 I am not sure I would use it to clean a comped barrel, it would likely damage the thread locking compound and the comp would come lose. I have not tested this but with two parts weighing different amounts and both vibrating it would stand to reason it could be an issue. Joe W. What about with one piece comps that can't come apart (Like a Trubore) and small parts? Would it still get the job done? Could I shoot moly bullets at open velocities? Edited August 5, 2010 by DyNo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 What about with one piece comps that can't come apart (Like a Trubore) and small parts? Would it still get the job done? Could I shoot moly bullets at open velocities? With a one piece set up like the Trubore it shouldn't be a problem. Shooting lead on the other hand..... lol You WILL have to clean the comp a LOT. And at major velocities you would have a major leading issue even with the hardest lead bullets. Heck I don't even like to shoot FMG bullets out of my gun because of the lead build up in the comp as it passes through the comp. For me, a toothbrush and some KG Gun Cleaner works wonders on the small parts and is a lot cheaper than an ultra sonic cleaner. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star4Ever Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I use a 50/50 solution of vinager and hydrogen peroxide. Let it soak overnight and all carbon just wipes or rinses out. Just be careful as this solution will remve paint or blueing. Only use on stainless steel. Hammer that is a very dangerous solution your using. I tried that in a stanless steel barrel and the instructions were no more than 15 minutes, well I got a call from work and spent an hour on the phone with them fixing a problem. When I got back to the barrel and rinsed it out it had pitted it. I was out $140 for a barrel and another $120 to have my smith fit it. Totally agree... I too have pitted a barrel (Stainless) because I became distracted and left it in the brine for about 3 hours.... ugly black little round pits.... Since then 10 Minute tops... I set a timer now. It does dissolve leading in barrels.... I would use something else for carbon... like brake cleaner.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Totally agree... I too have pitted a barrel (Stainless) because I became distracted and left it in the brine for about 3 hours.... ugly black little round pits.... OUCH! Sorry to hear about the pitting. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 I don't have a compensated pistol yet, but I drop my AR's bolt in a can of Kroil for a couple of hours and it works pretty good at getting the carbon off that's behind the gas rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Buy an old thermometer, break it and poir the mercury in the comp chsmbets...lethal stiff but the lead disappears. Impressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 A respirator, a Dremel and a small ball cutter. 10 mins and done. JT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzygä Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 A respirator, a Dremel and a small ball cutter. 10 mins and done. JT +1 That is the best way what I have find out. You just have to be carecul to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Submerged for 10-12 hour in a 80/20 mix of odorless mineral spirits and Break Free CLP. Good old Hoppes #9 works too but takes twice the time. Either way, what little crud remains gives it up pretty quickly with a little brushing and a rinse. Bear in mind I don't let the comps get real nasty to begin with so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 (edited) Well here goes,(ridicule if you want), a long time ago I read spraying the comp w/Pam or equivalent will aid in carbon removal. I sprayed mine shot a match and cleaned w/#9. Sprayed w/Pam, shot and cleaned etc... Hmmm, this is really easy to keep clean. Is it the Pam? Don't know but I have clean comps. Comps??--Yep, got 2 G34 open guns. Edited September 17, 2010 by the duck of death Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Well here goes,(ridicule if you want), a long time ago I read spraying the comp w/Pam or equivalent will aid in carbon removal. I sprayed mine shot a match and cleaned w/#9. Sprayed w/Pam, shot and cleaned etc... Hmmm, this is really easy to keep clean. Is it the Pam? Don't know but I have clean comps. Comps??--Yep, got 2 G34 open guns. If it works, keep it up right? I might just have to give this a try the next time I give my comp a good cleaning. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rye Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 I use a 50/50 solution of vinager and hydrogen peroxide. Let it soak overnight and all carbon just wipes or rinses out. Just be careful as this solution will remve paint or blueing. Only use on stainless steel. Is this safe with stainless steel comp with chrome finish? Is it harsh to loctite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 Is this safe with stainless steel comp with chrome finish? Is it harsh to loctite? It will still etch stainless steel, just not as fast as it does with carbon steel. As for the LocTite, if I remember correctly it does effect it over time. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mildot1 Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 After reading this today I went out and REALLY looked at my comp. WOW!!!! I didn't realize that all that funk had built up in there. Spent about an hour scraping then realized, hey stoopid git that dremel tool out. Removed a ton of junk with it and left it to soak in Hoppes over night. Anxious to see how the dot moves tommorrow> Mildot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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