Perf40

Per Wolff instructions. The closed end, with the wider spacing, is installed to the base of the guide rod. The open coil end, with narrower spacing of the coils, will be at the muzzle end.

Only tried 231 once withe the Berry's 185 HBRN. To much unburnt powder I switched to Bulleye and it worked well. Accurate and no unburnt powder, but left the gun dirty. I switched to Vihtavouri N310 and have never looked back. Gun - Les Baer Premier II Bullet - Berry's 185 HBRN Case - Winchester or Starline Powder - N310 OAL - 1.250 4.5 gr. at 725 FPS, 134 PF, 11 lb variable spring 5.0 gr. at 800 FPS, 148 PF, 13 lb variable spring If I did'nt use N310, I would use Bullseye. Even though it leaves the gun dirty, it's easy to clean. At these low pressures I would rather have a lot of "soot" instead a bunch of unburnt powder getting into all the little hiding places in a 1911.

Don't forget, you can write off a portion of the cost on your federal income tax if store your tax records and supporting documents.

I want to have a dedicated Steel Challenge built. I will have it built on an STI 2011 frame. Trying to decide between a Shorty and full size gun. I’ve shot both and did not notice much difference in my times. Would like to know the pros and cons of a Shorty versus a full size.

Try reloading for your 45. I use a 185 hollow base round nose at around 750 fps in by Les Baer and it shoots softer than my Glock 34 with Winchester white box.

Don't use Loctite 222. I have used it on an extended mag button on my 2011's to keep them from moving, but when I take the gun all the way down, a simple twist loosens 222. I purchased a set of sights from Dawson for my Glock 34. I used Red (271) Loctite and have never had them come loose. You will have to use heat if you need to break 271 loose.

The Les Baer Premier II gives you the best value for the money with zero gunsmithing required.

I use a "dental pick" type tool. I picked one that has the same diameter as the 1/3N battery. You slide it into the slot and rotate it so that you can pull the battery straight up. I had to look aroung for a tool that fit the basic diameter and filed the end so that it could slip it around the battery. Works like a charm.

I use a dremel vibro etching tool. I replaced the carbide tip with a piece of brass rod. You can grind a point or a chisel end on a piece about 2 inches long. They wear out quickly so I prepare about 5 pieces before I start cleaning. I use a belt sander and a dremel tool to sharpen the brass. I put the rod in the dremel and hold it at an angle against the belt sander. Sharpened in about 5 seconds. If you have a lot of powder fouling to remove, you can use a piece of drill rod, but you have to grind a 1/32" radius on the end of a sharpened rod or else you could actually vibro etch the comp.

I shoot a Dawson Shorty with a 3 port comp. I use 4.8 grains of N320, Zero 115JHP, at 1.200 OAL. This gives me 1075 fps for a 124 PF. It works the comp just fine. 5.8 grains (same powder, bullet,OAL) produces 1263 fps with a 145 PF. That might work better with the slide and comp configuration pictured in your post. If you want even more powder to work your comp try N350. 6.4 grains (same bullet, OAL) is running at 1179fps for a 136 PF. 7.2 grains of N350 (same bullet, OAL) runs 1298 fps for a 149 PF.

I have to agree with Doug. I would give the Berry 185 HBRN a try. I started with N320. Never was happy with the accuracy. I switched to N310. 4.5 grains at 725 fps (134 power factor). Very accurate.

I have been using 40 for pins for 10 years. Back in 2000 STI built a Grandmaster for me in 40. I usually use a 180 grain bullet at 195 to 200 PF, but I have run it as high as 215 PF with no signs of pressure issues. I do load to an OAL of 1.200. John

I use an STI Grandmaster in 40 S&W. I seat either a 180gr. or 200gr. bullet to 1.240". I use VV N350 from 7.6 to 8.2. With 180's 7.6 gives a 200 PF. 8.2 produces a 214PF. I found 214PF a bit of overkill. As far as I'm concerned any load that will take a pin off the top shelf without hitting the bottom shelf on the way down is all you need.

I have used several 180 gr. bullets for pin shooting (up to 1200 FPS). I get the best price and accuracy combination with Rainier plated. From a rest indoors, Zero gives slightly better accuracy at a higher price. I use Zero JHP because I dont't like the exposed lead at the base of the FMJ Zeros. Berry's platted bullets did not do well in my 40, even at indoor distances. I do like Berrys 185 round nose hollow base bullets in my 45 because I get very good accuracy at lower velocities. In my open guns I like to use Vit N350. Tightgroup works great in my limited 40 and the price is good. My advice would to by some Tightgroup and try several brands of 40 bullets starting with Rainiers.

I called in an order of 16lb. of Vit N320 from Powder Valley today. They said that they will ship it out tomorrow. I mentioned the shipping problem and they said that they had not heard of it.

I use 2.7 gr. of Vit N310 with a 125 gr. rainer. It works great for stationary steel.

Be very carefull about shooting other guns. Aside from the obvious difference in static weight and felt recoil you won't really know if it is right for you until you practice with a particular gun for some time. Build a heavy gun like an STI Edge. Shoot it for a seaon. Have it lightned if you not happy with the gun's performance. Remeber it is a lot easier to make a heavy gun lighter than it is to make a light gun heavier.

I talked to the tech guy at C-more and he said DO NOT USE two 1.5 volt batteries. Only use the 1/3 N battery.

Brake cleaner for really tough cleaning. Starrett M1 for general cleaning. FP-10 to lube the gun. Starrett M1 is a very light lubricant, but it cleans well and leaves a light protective film on the gun. thre price is reasonable, $15 a gallon at any tool supply store. I talked with an engineer at Starrett and he told me that in talc tests (the abilty not to attract dust) M1 is supperior to most of the clean, lube, and protect products on the market.

I emailed Vihtavuori for the information on H310.

I use 5.0gr. of N310 and a Berrys 185 HBRN. I get 800fps in my stock 5" gun.

I have only loaded bullet weights up to 130 gr. in 38 super using N310, but I have used N310 in several calibers including 38 Short Colt, 38 Long Colt, 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 40 S&W, and 45ACP. In every case (within +/-0.2 gr.) I have found that data for Bullseye works well for a starting point. I emailed Vihtavuori a couple of years ago asking for N310 data for several calibers. They had data for the 45ACP. At the time they told me that they didn't recommend N310 in the super because it was not efficient. When I exlplained the use (steel plate) they went ahead and did some development work and sent me the results. They really expressed a concern about a double charge but did not express any concerns about the small amount of powder. They started with 3.5 grs. with a 124gr bullet. Hope that helps.

As I understand it Starline uses a different alloy for 38 super +P versus 38 super. That would seem to explain why the super went up in price and not +P.

If a low powder charge can supposedly create excessive pressure, how come none of the poweder manufactures can recreate this condition? I have called several manufactures and not one can create this condition.

I'm using Rainier 135 FP's with 5.0 grs. of Tightgroup. I get 1030 FPS out of my Edge. Good accuracy and it works real well on falling steel.