BayouSlide

Bigpops, I hear ya on trigger slop. I wanted to change the Trojan trigger to something longer and I seemed to prefer a flat insert. But I was also hoping to remove some of the slop in the fit of the STI plastic trigger. Being the sort of guy who obsesses over small details, I felt the SVI base would provide a fit with less up and down and side to side movement. Due to the shape of the beginning of the upper trigger channel in my Trojan, I had to remove a fair amount of material from the SVI for clearance to insert into the channel. And by the time it was fitted and moving freely, it had a small amount of movement up and down—much more than I hoped for. Did I mention I was the sort of guy who obsesses over small details. Now that Bobby at Freedom Gunworks has finished Spanky's gun ( http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=111591 ) , work on my Edge is scheduled for next week. Then Bobby will get the Trojan for trigger work. I'm going to ask him to check my fitment and if it can be improved, start over with a new SVI base. And did I mention I was the sort of guy who obsesses over small details. Since Bobby, unlike me, actually knows what he's doing, I'll bet he wouldn't be afraid to take a file to the frame to match it better to the SVI trigger base. Me, as Clint Eastwood so wryly noted in The Unforgiven, well "A man's gotta know his limitations." Curtis Edited: 'cause I hate tipos typos!

Just to update: took a stab and fitted one successfully, but it certainly wasn't a drop-in. Took much sanding and buffing on the top and bottom and a fair bit (plus some filing) in places towards the back of the base on the sides for it to slide smoothly without any binding in my Trojan. Thanks for all the advice. Curtis Edited to add: BTW, I seemed to have guessed right. The long flat work insert works perfectly for me in a 1911. I had a medium flat on my Edge.

I've found that 3.3 grains of Titegroup with 147 gr Zero JHP will make around 136 in a G34, about 2-3 less in G17 IIRC. Curtis

...and lost in Arbitration Curtis Nope. I got exactly what I wanted. It's obvious who was the pawn and who was the king in this chess game...you've been two steps ahead of me all along. Curtis

...and lost in Arbitration Curtis

Typo or am I missing something. The competitor would be shooting a minor caliber but scored major? That would seem to be a major competitive advantage. Curtis

Thanks, guys, for all the info. Parts ordered. Shouldn't be anything beyond my abilities. I had ordered the plain aluminum pad/insert (unpainted) just for the reason Steve mentioned. Curtis

Thanks for the reminder...it's in the March/April 2010 issue for whomever is interested. Curtis

Thanks for the feedback. Been down to the frame on a 2011 no problem. So if it's minor fitment and adjustment only, I'm ready to dive in. Curtis

Looking to change out the STI 1911 trigger bow to an SVI 1911 trigger bow in my Trojan so I can use the flat SVI trigger insert. The trigger in my stock Trojan is pretty decent, and I'm a detail-oriented shadetree gun mechanic, though most of my experience up to now has been on Glocks. For those with experience with this job, how straightforward is it to match the new SVI trigger bow to the previously fit STI bow? Not scared to tackle it, unless there are some specific issues I'm unaware of. Through search, I've read that SVI has changed their trigger bows to a larger size to fit their new frames, but I'm assuming that's the 2011 trigger bow and I see a separate part for the 1911s. Appreciate the help and guidance. Curtis

Slide stops can vary in diameter. FWIW, I've found that the standard size EGW stop runs larger and will tighten up that free play. I just replaced the factory stop in my STI Trojan for that reason. IIRC the the EGW was .2000 - .2005. I measured three non-EGW slide stops from STIs and the two newer ones were .1985 and one from a well-used 2011 was .1935. How much play is too much? It would take somebody better versed in 1911s than me to explain. Curtis Edited: check the actual measurements on the STI stops and added 'em in.

Weight depends on the set up and parts used. Adjustable sights weigh a fraction more than fixed sights. For example, on my G34...with Trugrip, captive stainless rod, 13# ISMI spring, Dawson adjustable rear and FO front sight and Vanek classic trigger...if I ad a Jentra plug I am AT max weight to the exact tenth of an ounce. Drop the Jentra I have .2 oz. breathing room. Curtis Edited: 'cause I hate tipos typos!

Shouldn't have been much discussion: that rule is pretty specific : 8.2.4 A course of fire must never require the competitor to draw a handgun from the holster with the weak hand. Not drawing from the holster...no prohibition exists according to this rule. Curtis

Such a low ready start is prohibited in USPSA matches, per 8.2.3: "A course of fire must never require or allow a competitor to touch or hold a handgun, loading device or ammunition after the “Standby” command and before the “Start Signal” (except for unavoidable touching with the lower arms)." Curtis

Welcome to the most informative shooting forum on the Internet I did load a round of .380 once on my 550B without any problem...well, actually one problem:you see I was loading 9mm at the time that this .380 case slipped into the run. Slipped into the box of practice ammo, too. 3.3 grs of Titegroup and a Zero 147 gr JHP makes a heck of a .380 load through a 9mm Glock 34 I'm willing to bet you won't have any problems at all with a 550 set up properly for that caliber. Curtis

Well, it's about dang time, bud. Is that the same press you won at Double Tap...in March?? When I started reloading I tested VV powders and still have some for occasional runs of 10mm. The problem for me was sporadic availability...it was enough of a hassle to find Federal primers: sure didn't want add a hard to find powder to the components quest. So I've been using Titegroup for years. Yes, it is inversely temperature sensitive so not the best choice for those who plan to just eek by at chrono. Yes, it heats and gunks up my pistols more. But it works well enough for me for both 9mm and .40, is nearly always easy to find in 8# jugs and it simplifies my life. And a few dollars here and there adds up after 50K rounds or so. Like the old folk song says, "Just gimme something I'm used to." Curtis

Recently got a lightly used Trojan 9mm...the six Dawson mags with basepads for the Ice No Gap magwell that were included have run 100 percent. Curtis

Hopefully he has the new Classic Grandmaster Trigger. That is what I have in mine for production. Right you are, Kevin. Charlie's offerings are a little more complicated than they used to be. Thanks for the correction And I wanted to add, over time I've found that a 9mm load at around 136 PF (3.3 grs of Titegroup with 147 gr Zero JHP) and a 13# ISMI recoil springs offered better functioning and reliability than chasing loads that are too light in my G34. As always, YMMV. Curtis Edited: 'cause I hate tipos typos!

You might not be aware that the Grandmaster trigger kit has a trimmed trigger safety, which is an external modification and thus illegal for use in the Production division. Curtis

This issue also raises a pertinent issue for all you stage designers out there: as Skydiver noted, 1.1.5 is our guiding principle. In cases like this, does the desire to specify target order of engagement override the guiding principle of freestyle? If not, clarify in the WSB that targets arrays may be engaged in any order. Curtis

Same here with my 9mm STI Trojan. Curtis

Extra visible holes = external mod = not legal for Production. No wiggle room unless they've changed the product. I'm another happy Vanek user. But if you're going Vanek, get his Production-legal trigger...I believe the Super Grandmaster also has some external mods. Curtis

I wish it weighed nothing. It still weighs enough to ALMOST put me into Open with my G34 with a steel guide rod, Dawson adjustable rear sights and TruGrip. I just have to trust all the scales at all the matches match mine. Pulling it out gives me .2 oz. of breathing room from the limit. It's worthwhile to put your Production gun on the scale before a Level III if you had a number of part changes—capped of with such a seemingly innocuous piece of plastic. I considered drilling a couple of lightening holes in mine but couldn't figure out where to put 'em. Curtis Edited: 'cause I still hate tipos tiepos typos! Well, you are just living on the edge! I have the Dawson adjustables on my G34 and the Trugrip, too. I won't dare look at aftermarket guiderods for that exact reason. Yeh, the pressure was getting to me—I was afraid to add an extra drop of oil Finally broke down completely and bought a used Edge. Will move over to Limited after Bobby at Freedom Gunworks passes his magic wand over the trigger. No more gun diets for me, dang it! Curtis

I wish it weighed nothing. It still weighs enough to ALMOST put me into Open with my G34 with a steel guide rod, Dawson adjustable rear sights and TruGrip. I just have to trust all the scales at all the matches match mine. Pulling it out gives me .2 oz. of breathing room from the limit. It's worthwhile to put your Production gun on the scale before a Level III if you had a number of part changes—capped of with such a seemingly innocuous piece of plastic. I considered drilling a couple of lightening holes in mine but couldn't figure out where to put 'em. Curtis Edited: 'cause I still hate tipos tiepos typos!

Always been Jentra plugs for me. However, with it I am exactly at the max permitted weight for my G34, based on my postal scale. The Jentra weighs .2 oz. IIRC. Pulled it for Area 4 this year just to ease my mind, but the scale used there matched my postal scale exactly. Next time I'll live a little dangerously and leave it in Curtis Edited: 'cause I hate tipos typos!