okshootist

Try a boot or luggage repair shop. It will probably cost a lot less and they should be better equipped for the job.

As Toolguy pointed out, the Bill Davis model tends to be self-adjusting. They are also more prone to breakage. Go with the Tri-Set, it's a much better system. The auto and revolver ribs are not the same.

Deburring the primer slide with very fine sandpaper on a flat surface might help. Magslick makes a good dry lube. Anything else I've tried caused problems. Sometimes, rotating the bracket on the primer tube very slightly counterclockwise will help.

Does this occur only during live fire? Does it occur during the first few shots or only after a few rounds have been fired? If it's inadequate cylinder gap, the binding will occur when the cylinder heats up and it's a pretty dramatic bind.

A good aftermarket barrel that is properly fitted will improve accuracy dramatically. That means an over-sized barrel installed by someone that knows what they doing. A drop-in barrel or new bushing won't do nearly as much, if anything. The barrel has to lock up consistently at both ends and the majority of contact points are on the back end.

It's good to have the alignment tool, crane misalignment is fairly common. I would pass on the reamer and suggest using the Power Custom bearings to correct endshake. It is much easier and more predictable than crane stretching.

I've tried several and the most precise is the Wilson. It aligns the cartridge using the case body rather than the case rim. It's slow and labor intensive but it produces consistent lengths and square case mouths. Bottle neck cartridges will require an arbor press for best results. It's available from Sinclair. Of those that hold and align using the case rim, I'd chose the Forster.

I had the same problem when using rounds with a short overall length. Metalform front ramp mags solved the problem. Extra power mag springs from Wolff made the old mags usable. I haven't had the problem with new Wilson mags.

I have no experience with the Stock II but lots with 9mm and the revolvers mentioned. The 9mm is capable of extreme accuracy in a good gun with the right load. The 9mm is the cartridge of choice for PPC semi-auto and has developed a large following in Bullseye, both of which require 50 yd. accuracy. Find a load the gun likes, practice and have fun.

UPS and Fedex require handguns, including frames, to be shipped overnight air. Long guns can go by ground.

Separate operations also make case length variations less of a factor. A long case in a combination die can cause a bulge behind the case mouth. Set up is also easier.

USPS suggests (insists at my post office) that handguns be sent registered mail. That can take a couple of weeks.

You wouldn't be able to install the barrel.

Best to decap them first, water gets trapped in the primer pockets. Wash with dish washing liquid and cream of tartar. A waterproof tumbler helps. Putting them in a strainer on top of a central air conditioning unit dries better than the oven if that is an option.

It won't clean them all that well. In my experience it isn't something to worry about.

I have used a contact lens in the dominant eye and didn't notice any problems with routine activities. It may depend on the amount of correction.

It sounds like your problem is a negative conditioned response rather than an actual deficiency in the grip. Since you haven't responded to verbal instruction, I'd suggest that you have some video taken of a practice session. Sometimes, seeing the act reaches the subconscious where verbal instruction doesn't. Then, replace the negative habit with a positive. For example, focus on applying force laterally across the gun with the support hand. Use whatever works for you. Be consistent, it took thousands of repetitions to create the bad habit and it will take thousands to replace it.

I too, have small hands (glove size medium). Covering the backstrap with anything is not an option for me on an N frame. I find that if the gun doesn't shift in my hand, recoil discomfort isn't an issure. Hogue wood grips, checkered with no finger grooves and a stippled backstrap combined with high hand and thumb placement work for me.

You can't really judge the strength of the firing pin strike on fired rounds. They all look heavy after firing. The problem could be borderline firing pin strikes or excessive cylinder endshake. With the cylinder closed it shouldn't have more than about .002" fore and aft movement. Check the mainspring strain screw to make certain it is tight and has not been excessively shortened. Also check the mainspring to see if it has been excessively bent or thinned. Make certain your moonclips are not bent. If the clip holds the round too high it absorbs firing pin energy. Primers should be seated with the anvil legs in contact with the bottom of the primer pocket.

Bullets require a certain amount of pressure to obturate enough to fill the bore. An increase in pressure or a softer bullet (copper jacket or lead)may solve the problem. You could look at powders with a faster burn rate to get more pressure with less velocity increase. Don't go too light on the crimp or the bullet will set back when it hits the feed ramp.

I know two people who have detonated federal primers in Dillon 650s with the attendant sympathetic detonation of the primer tube. Neither was injured. The problem isn't the equipment or components but technique and maintenance. Keep the priming mechanism free of debris and press the primers into place (as opposed to slamming the press to it's stopping point on the up stroke) and you won't have a problem. I've made it through about a half million without incident. Always wear safety glasses when reloading, just in case.

You can go to aristocratproducts.com to see an example. It is listed as a lockup bar.

The Lee factory crimp die works very well with wadcutters. The carbide final sizing ring helps to keep the round stable and produces a more symmetrical crimp with crooked case mouths.

Start with just enough belling to let the skirt enter the case and work up gradually. Your photo looks close but may be a bit much. Keep in mind that excessive belling can also cause shaving/swaging of the bullet. If you feel a bump of resistance as the case mouth enters the die, it's too much. If you are using Dillon dies, you may also want to try different seating plugs. Sometimes the roundnose seater squares and stabilizes the bullet better than the wadcutter seater. Make certain you hold the bullet in place until it enters the die. With new cases, you can also get galling between the bullet and case that pushes lead forward. Chamfering and tumbling help.