nphd2000

Aside from affecting the function of the AA, if you don't mind the slide rubbing on the dust cover, it wouldn't be a problem.

I found alot of crap about the "pig nose" dust cover (TDC) on other forums. If anyone is interested you can fix it simply and I believe it has solved my problem with the AA .22 conversion kit (another couple hunderd rounds and I'll be convinced). I used a suggestion from a different forum. A wedge between the slide and dust cover to give you the desired gap then heat with a hair dryer. I actually used a lever to pry and when the pressure was no longer needed on the lever I stopped applying the heat.

I woke up this morning and the "Pig Nose" thing hit me like a ton of bricks. Thanks though. I searched alot of things last night but "pig nose" never crossed my mind. The frame actually contacts the slide (contact marks are on the slide and frame). The AA .22 conversion that came with it had an extended barrel to "Help" with the cycling. I believe it's the frame rub thats causing the AA issue's.

I searched I swear! I bought a Glock 34 over the internet. Now that it's here I noticed it has the front frame rails that curve up. Some where is a thread about straightening them. Can anyone point me in the direction of the thread or shed some light on the how to please? Thanks

I would most likely be interested. I'm going to check out Mike DiGennaro as they have a tentatively scheduled class in Oct that is only a short drive which would save me a lot on hotels. Where is the class in October? I didn't see it listed on Mike's site.

After reading this thread I start to wonder, when we reload do we weigh every bullet and adjust our powder charge to the weight? For that matter, how accurate is our powder drop, do we weigh each drop.....what about the scale we use to weigh the bullet ...or to weigh the powder charge.....what is the variation in primers, powder variation batch to batch....Oh I have a headache. On a serious note, I have been witness to a chrono stage or two, and I have yet to hear from one of the shooters that we have seen on TV walk away from the chrono and comment about the in-accuracy. Most usually say "just where I thought it would be".

When will the final results be posted?

No conversion barrels in Production.

I'll chime in with my opinion. I thought the "Ideal" limited Glock would be a Stainless CCF frame with a lightened G35 slide, stock barrel, Fiber optic front and rear site (your choice of brand) "The" magwell (because I could make it fit the CCF), mako slide racker, Lightened striker and all springs, tungsten (Heavy) guide rod, and a scary short, light trigger with all safeties still functional. Then I thought "what about a G24 slide" but I couldn't get the 24 slide to get along with the CCF.

Fun match. Great guys. I hope to see another in the near future. Thank you.

Ah, go ahead get it cut. I was thinking the same as you when I bought a CCF and a Glock 24 slide. I couldn't get the 24 slide and the CCF to get along with each other but my 35 slide fit nicely. Too bad I don't shoot much, I would realy like to give this set-up a go. Maybe next year. Post pic's if you do take the plunge.

Are you having specific problems? Just curious because I am shooting steel this year with 9mm minor and thinking of shooting Major 9 next year for USPSA. Thanks.

This is very interesting because I shot the PSA with a 9mm 115 jhp tightgroup load in my open Glock. The load was for production (now shoot 147's w vv340) but it seemed to work well in the open gun. The dot tracked well but the spent brass just dribbled out the side of the gun so I thought I would just up the powder a bit and load more. Maybe I shouldn't reload more? Maybe the comp is more of a barrel weight with this powder? What to do?

Just wanted to add my $.02. I shot a production gun Saturday at the PSA and shot an Open gun on Sunday with a thumb rest. Thinking back I do not remember "feeling" a difference. I don't remember my thumb touching the rest but I know it did. In "practice" or dry fire I notice the thumb touching and it feels natural but when shooting I don't notice it even being there.

Damn! Where can I get one of those Caspian Glock "open" airsoft guns? It would be almost an exact replica of my 17 open steel gun.

Just be careful of the Caspian slide. I have a 17 slide and it is nice but I was getting "light strikes", turns out the firing pin hole (slot) was out of spec. Caspian said they would exchange it but I didn't want to wait for another and have the same problem so a little (precision) filing and all was good.

The comp and barrel are KKM. The comp works well but the 2 barrel ports realy made a difference. I think the length of the 35 w/the comp is a perfect combination but I also lightened the slide. Transitions are no different than with a stock 35 in my opinion. On a side note I have a 35 with the CCF SS frame and that thing is a brick when it comes to transitions, but I haven't spent alot of time shooting it either. I'm not a serious competitor but the 35 open is fun to shoot. I may dabble with a .40 / 9 conversion barrel and shoot major .9 and leave my 17 as a minor steel gun.

I built a .40 open Glock from a 35 a few years back, just before SJC offered their stealth package. I used Berry's 135 with VV 350. Loved the way it shot but I added 2 barrel ports. Built a 9mm top end for it now but the 35 .40 top end slides right back on if I want.

What Airsoft rifle are you using? I bought an electric gun that I thought would work good but the BB's were stored on top of the rifle in a fake red dot which makes it pretty much useless. For us people that don't have a practice range I think it would be useful.

I have a G35 open gun I put together years ago with a KKM barrel and comp with 2 port holes in the barrel. I run 135 bullets w/vvn350 @ 172 power factor. Shoots flat and has plenty of gas to work comp and barrel ports. The barrel ports are small though.

Read the thread, several members have posted individual pictures and some have posted links (alan and myself) where other photos can be found. I know there were a ton of pictures taken and I didn't see that many in this post.

Where can the pic's and video's be found? Great match, thanks to all the staff and supporters!

Amen to the 1 gun thing. Shoot it and learn it.

I use 9mm, I prefer .40. Hope that helps. Seriously, I've shot my best stages (not that impressive compared to others) using a G35 with minor .40, but at the time it seemed the slide was moving too slowly and I was waiting for the sites so I switched to 9mm for the snap and cost. looking back at it, I think I was seeing in slow motion (if that makes any sense) and I could actually track the sites. .40 is a better option for me but I'm getting cheaper in my old age. Thread drift, If money wasn't a factor I think .45 in Lim 10 would be a great option (for meanyway) as well. There is a cool 6" STI in .45 for sale. I think that would make an awesome Lim 10 gun but I don't want to pay for .45 brass and bullets. JMO

Good choice. I didn't like the looks of the JP Tank brake but I love shooting it. We shoot at 3" circles @ 300 yards and you can see the holes appear in the paper. The shooters on the side of me don't like my JP though.