MAN - GA

Thanks to all for the comments/suggetsions I guess it is just a fluke thing and maybe the locking block pin holes are off more than the naked eye can detect or the pin is overly large in diameter. BayouSlide I am removing in proper sequence already thought this through a couple times and re-read the armorer's manual to make sure I hadn't slipped something up Thanks Again to all

I have a G24 w/ a Heavy Ice magwell - it helps me balance the gun back over my hand better and soften felt recoil by adding a little overall mass to the gun the magwell benefit speaks for itself on the reloads - really the overall opening size helps take out the conscience part of reloading with my eyes and just letting the muscle memory take over in lieu of having to focus on the reload and then find the target again

It comes out - it is just considerably harder than other Glock pistols I have. I know all the tricks to get the pins out and am using the armorers tool - I was just curious if Others are encountering the same thing or if it is just my particular pistol Everything functions just fine and there is not any excessive peening on the bottom of slide - just a slight finish wear in the black finish and it is equal on both sides. THANKS

Has anyone come across hard to remove locking block pins (smaller pin). I have several Glocks and never had any of the pins be extremely difficult to remove. I know sometimes the trigger pin is tricky trying to get the slide stop out of the groove on the trigger pin, but the reason I ask is my G24 is really hard to remove and reinsert - the pin channel across the gun appears to be straight and the pin rolls straight and flat across a glass table so I don't think it is bent. The G24 is only 6mn old and has about 1500rnds through it and the pin doesn't seem to get be getting any looser. I am curious if others are seeing this in recently manufactured guns and wonder if it is a manufacturing issue? an engineering upgrade by Glock? or just my particular gun being real tight? Comments appreciated...

I cannot tell much difference on recoil control after I begin shooting a stage, however, for me the gun balances better back into my hand and I believe has made a difference for me with sighting - I didn't really like the slug after I installed it as the radius edge on the bottom hit my hand pretty hard when I was seating mags. I have since moved up to a Dawson heavy magwell that utilizes the same principal as the seattle slug with the added benefit of the magwell - it really balances my G24 well for me and adds some weight which should make some difference in felt recoil, but everyone is their own personal judge on felt recoil.

Looking for some feedback on shooters who use a 35 as a dual purpose L-10/Limited & production gun. I am presently shooting L-10 with a G24 setup and am thinking about getting a G35 to serve the purpose as a L-10 gun with major loads and a production gun with minor loads. I have plenty of recoil springs for adjustments in power factor functioning. I am not planning on doing anything major such as magwells, etc. just looking to have one gun perform the role of two. Looking to see if there is pros & cons from shooters who have tried this or if I should keep shooting the G24 as a L-10/Limited gun and just get the G35 and shoot it in production and use it is a backup or go straight for a G34 and have it dedicated as a production gun.

What holster are you using with this setup - I have a very similar setup shooting L-10 right now and am just curious what others are using with their longslide Glock. I am using the Bladetech DOH and sometimes feel like I have to yank it way up to clear

I had the extraction problems on brand new unit and at first thought it just needed some break in time. After about 400-500 rounds the issue still existed so I pulled the barrel out and polished the feed ramp and around the inside of chamber very lightly with a dremel polishing pad and some polishing compound and problem was solved - the area around chamber mouth was left with no polishing from the machining process and was about the same smoothness as the outside of the barrel (the majority of the chamber & bore appeared very smooth) - after a little work it was shooting great and is very accurate to say the least. Can't say enough about these little conversion kits - I believe mine shoots as good as my old Ruger MKII that has tens of thousands of rounds through it Good Luck

I have just started experimenting with changing recoil springs in my G17. The first combination I chose was the Wolff 14lb recoil spring and reduced power striker spring (4lb). As I have done more research I hear that glocks were made to run on flat wire springs and using round wire springs is not a good idea and on the other hand I read info saying some of the glock team members are shooting round wire springs. Maybe all this is really trivial and both work just fine. Comments & suggestions welcome..... (The Wolff setup I chose was on the Wolff guide rod)

I am trying to find out if anyone has looked at the screw spacing between the drop/offset w/ Tek-Lok accessory from Blade-Tech to see if fit will adapt to a Blackhawk holster screw spacing.