mpmo

Machine is probably a year old. The powder measure was purchased new this week. It is new style. After the last time it shifted I already had about 150 rounds done. I took note of the baffle and noticed that the powder completely filled the space under the baffle. To test the theory that it was a powder compression issue, without messing with the powder in the hopper, I again set reset the charge back to 27.5. Did 20 drops to make sure it stayed consistent and then loaded another 100. Sometime around the 100 mark, it AGAIN shifted back up .3 gns. I'm at a loss. Also to note, occasionally it will throw a 28.0 even when it is otherwise consistently throwing my dialed 27.5.

Well, spoke too soon. As above, it settled at 27.5 for about 125 rounds. Then it jumped up to 27.8-27.9. I have to call it quits for the day before I throw something out the window.

I think I might have it down. I adjusted to 27.3, let it climb to 27.5 after 30 or so rounds. So far after 100 rds, it has stayed. I am cranking down on the plunger assembly lock screw pretty good. I did take my measure apart and wipe down with a dryer sheet and re-installed it on the press according to the instructions. Those things could have helped. Also, I do keep powder level in the hopper consistent. I tend to keep it between 70-85% full.

I have the shell plate retaining spring (the one that holds the rounds to the plate decently loose as demonstrated on the .223 tune video they published. Should I tighten it down a bit?

Any ideas why my new Lyman expansion die is bending in the rim in? This happens about every 10 rounds. This is on a Mark 7 EVO.

So I can get it to be consistent +/- 0.1 for about the first 30 loads. Then it jumps about .3-.5. I have the nut on the plunger assembly tightened with a wrench. Any ideas?

Any suggestions on how to know if you have actually seated a primer on a Mark 7 Evo (manual not automated)? On my Hornady LNL, since priming happened on the opposite side of the stroke as the rest of the actions, you could always tell by feel if a primer was not being seated or was having some issue being seated. But since priming takes place at the same time as all the other actions on the M7, you can't tell if you have seated a primer. A few times a primer hasn't been seated which of course causes a mess with powder. Thanks!

Brand new powder drop. Trying to get it to meter 27.5gn of CFE223. I'm OK with +/- .1 or even .2. But I'm at 27.5 for a while and then go to check and I'm at 27.9 or 27.3. Any thoughts? Press is new to me, as is rifle reloading. I've got a lot of experience loading pistol on a LNL. Die is previous station is a Lyman expanding. Using new Starline .223 brass.

I've heard from several people that the ideal bullet jump is 0.020". I have measured my OAL with the Hornady gauge and the max is 2.320. So that would make my ideal OAL around 2.300. However as @HesedTech says above, the magazines I'm using won't feed anything longer than 2.26. I have tested this in the gen 3 P-mags. I'm even cautious to load that long as it seemed like it was about the ragged edge of reliability. But am I sacrificing accuracy in making the bullet jump 0.050 farther than ideal? Can I do anything about this? Are there different mags I should be looking at?

Duplicate

I realize I'm responding to a post from 14 months ago. But just in case you are still having this issue or someone else comes across it. I have a couple suggestions. 1.The magnet the die uses is very strong. If I have my powder drop turned too close to it, the metal of the powder drop attracts the magnet and does not let it drop. 2.My basement is a bit damp and I noticed after a while the rod seemed sluggish even when the powder drop wasn't an issue. I lubricated with graphite powder and that solved the issue. One other thing I noticed is that the position of the ring that sits just below the magnet can stick in the up position which can cause a false alarm, or sometimes that small chirp and flash of a light. Lubing that with graphite fixed that. It also did not seem perfectly concentric so sometimes rotating it and testing it's up/down motion can also help. I came looking for a solution to the powder spilling at speed. I will be trying the straw trick and I also like the idea of using a washer above the plunger. Might give that a try too! If anyone has since tested that, please update!

Maybe they are re-assessing to make an optics ready version...

For my CZ S2 and TSO. 115gr RN blue bullets, N320, 105PF. (for reference, I'm not expert, 2nd year of competing, A, B, and C classes for SCSA)

I get it. It's not for you. As a small business owner, I just didn't think the Buyer beware label was fair. I can tell you that in the past 6 months, I have purchased 3 guns from different manufacturers that all recommended/required a break-in period. It's not like CWA is the only custom maker out there that does this. I'd guess (I'm not a smith so I don't know,) if Chet was willing to make his tolerances looser, it wouldn't require the break-in. It's the tightest fitting slide to frame that I own. Combine that with a teeny tiny round with very little energy...

I knew going in that my CWA might need a break in period. It would suck to find that out once it was delivered, but Chet is pretty clear on this and it states it on his paperwork. It took the full 800rds before it ran 100%. I have to be honest @revolver45. Your post bothers me. It's not buyer beware. Maybe buyer be educated. And if you are spending that kind of cash, and waiting months for a custom pistol, I do recommend knowing fully what you are getting into. If he breaks it in, as advertised, shoots HV ammo, and it still doesn't work, than I can see 'buyer beware'... If he didn't want a gun that was going to require a break-in period and prefers HV ammo, buy something else. For me, it was well worth it and I enjoyed breaking it in. I felt like I needed that amount of rounds through it before I wanted to bring it to a competition anyway. I guess by this logic, it's buyer beware on my Glock 43. I bought it and it won't fire 45acp.

I've had great luck with the RTS2. I have run the 8 and 10 MOA. Both are great.

Looking to double up on my ear pro but don't want to loose the advantages of the electronic. I've tried the Pro Ear in-ear with their passive muffs, but it is tough to hear/hold a converstion and they are uncomfortable. Is is possible to use electronic inner and outer? Would there be interference or echo? Anyone got a combo they like?

Any suggestions for a bag or case for 10/22 10rd mags? Something to bring to the range and to the line?

Got my SCI-20. REad the manual. It made reference to a loading doc on their website! Pretty cool! https://jprifles.com/document_pdfs/JP Loading Document_757.pdf

That is great to know! I haven't shot any matches in that weather with the CWA yet. But given it's performance so far, I'm not surprised. I have noticed that with my mini-mags lately in the cold, the wax has hardened to the point where more than 50% don't come out of the ammo packaging holes. When this happens, I don't use those rounds durning a match.

I have a stock black mamba and a full CWA 2011 custom (but standard) build. Both are truly awesome guns and I love to shoot them both. The CWA is my RFPO and the Black Mamba is now for RFPI. If I cared more about RFPI, I would get a second slide for the CWA. A couple observations. To note I am a mid-40's, low A class shooter just through my second season of competing in SCSA. I made A class at the Ohio state match first time shooting the CWA gun this past summer. No question I am faster and more confident with it. 1.The trigger on the CWA is crazy good and for me way better than the Black Mamba. It could just be me, but I noticed that pulling the trigger on the Black Mamba tended to pull the muzzle down. I would have to focus on pulling it straight back. I could probably work that out in training. The extra weight of the CWA, the gas petal and the way the mag well locks your grip in could be contributing factors to the IMHO supurb trigger pull. 2.Speaking of the CWA mag well. I hated the way my hands felt at first. The feel like they are squeezed in, with not enough room for my hands on the gun. But after shooting it for about a week, I found the effect it had on locking my grip in place was exceptional and preferred. 3.I run Mini-mag target and Eley Force. Both run flawless. Standard Velocity is not recommended but I have never tried any. 4.The gun was not built to run in temperatures under i believe 50 or 60 degrees. However, up here in Ohio, I run it in the 30's without any malfunctions. 5.Both guns prefer to be cleaned more than any other guns I own. No difference between the two. They both seem to want to be cleaned every 4-500rds. 6.The CWA needs a break in period (800 rds with HV ammo.). The Black Mamba does not. My CWA had malfunctions until I had at least 600 rds through it. 7.I never had to tune my mags on the Black Mamba although I've heard some people have had to do that. I do recommend either getting the Volquartzen mags or fully upgrading stock Rugers with Tandemkross parts. Both work flawlessly. 8.I do like that the comp is removable on the Black Mamba for cleaning, but I could never get it to stay tight on the gun, even when cranking on it with the provided wrench. It would come loose by the end of a match or range session. Could be something I was doing wrong. I never used loktite or anything. I do recommend their pulverizer for cleaning or whatever it's called. Either choice is a great one. Let us know what you think when you have fully tested both!

Just getting started with .223 loading. Have pretty decent experience with 9 and .45. Anything specific to recommend for loading for an SCI-20 w/Cmore C3? Nothing in my neck of the woods is past 300yds. Planning on starting with new Starline brass, CCI 400, CFE 223, Berry's 55gr, Hornady standard dies, Hornady LNL. Thanks!

So there are a few different types of connex containers. 20', 40', 40' High Cargo, 53'. They are typically priced according to condition. The prices right now are about 30% higher than what I was paying about 18 months ago just because of the current shortage. The common conditions are weather and water tight, (won't leak but may show very heavy use.) and what I would recommend which is 'one trip.' Meaning they were used once to transport goods from overseas to here. These will look like they are brand new. The floors will be perfect and the doors will be about a million times easier to open and close. The one trips typically cost about 30% more than the weather tights I think. I have a guy here in Ohio and I know another in California. The guy in California sources them all over the country and can ship there. I can get you in touch if you want, just PM me.

Starting to plan my 2022 travel schedule. I have to visit clients across the country, but the dates tend to be flexible. Background: I'm a high-B class USPSA shooter but have started getting into the rifle, PCC, 2-gun and 3-gun. I'm mostly interested in practical type matches, not long range. I would like to hit up a few where I can use my AK47. What suggestions do you all have for the best matches I shouldn't miss in 2022? Club level to majors, I'm open. Bonus points if it takes place in Jan-March. Is there anything in Vegas worth shooting around Shot Show? Was considering going this year.

How did the JP5's do at Nationals? Any issues?