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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About apoc4lypse

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    Looks for Range

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    James D

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  1. For those of you who practice on regulation stages, how do you structure your practice sessions? Lately I've been setting up multiple stages (usually five per session) and shooting each one with three guns, typically six strings per gun. I don't make up my misses but try to get four perfect strings. If the first four are perfect then I'll shoot the last two pushing for speed. The stages I shoot are in arranged in the order that I'll encounter at my local match. How about you guys?
  2. I cleaned them a few days before trying the AR Tactical. But i'll probably give them another cleaning as it's been a while since then. Usually I use a patch on a slotted patch holder with solvent; I'll try sticking a bore brush in there instead. Good idea with the handwarmers though. It doesn't get super cold where I am but I'll try it out.
  3. I ordered a compensator over the weekend. It's shipping today and should be here on Friday. So maybe there is a backlog specific to what you ordered?
  4. Has anyone else had any problems running CCI AR Tactical in pistol mags? It seems not to refresh fast enough in my 22/45 magazines. I.e., if you pull down the plunger stud with a finger, the rounds will hang up and very slowly move to the top of the magazine instead of springing up immediately with other ammo.
  5. Another +1 for the shootingtargets7 set!
  6. I use a 5moa Trijicon SRO on my RFRO gun. It does triple duty as my optic for CO, RFRO, and RFPO. Whichever optic you get, try to inspect it in person first. I've noticed that some optics use a dot that flickers at a very high framerate (presumably to save battery) instead of one that is constantly on. When stationary it's hard to notice but it can be very noticeable and distracting during transitions. I've returned three optics because of this visual characteristic; I find it very hard to track a flickering dot when transitioning at high speed.
  7. I'm thinking about buying a PCC for Steel Challenge (primarily) and maybe IDPA or USPSA. I would want a pretty lightweight setup, so the two full rifles I'm considering are the Lead Star Prime PCC and the Christensen Arms CA9MM 16". My other option would be to buy a Wiland LLW upper and build my own lower, though I'd want it sprung for full power factor loads and not the 80PF ones. Do any of you have experience with either rifle, or would you build your own, or perhaps get something entirely different? I do want to shoot both irons and optics on this one as well if that should b
  8. I use a Craftbot Plus and print in ABS. I did a few prototypes for the sights on my personal printer then sent the files to be professionally printed on a MJF printer. Thanks! I did end up getting my second GM in RFRO by a hair this weekend too, but couldn't budge my RFPI times at all. Ah well, there is always next match!
  9. As a righty, 2, 1, 4, 3, S. I find that shooting the far back rectangle first and picking up the 12" immediately after while waiting for the ding is faster than taking the close plate and far plate and waiting for the ding. But if I was 100% confident in calling my shot on the far plate then it would be faster to hit that second and not bother waiting for a ding. For the second array, I always find it easier for me to shoot from the outside right to the stop.
  10. I shot my first full 8 stage Steel Challenge match and got my first GM in RFRI! I'm super stoked as I only started shooting Steel Challenge a little over a year ago. I loved it enough to buy my own practice set and have been diligently shooting in multiple divisions ever since. Hopefully I'll add GMs in RFRO and RFPI, which are sitting at 94% and 90% respectively, at my next match in two weeks. Here is my RFRI setup: a T/CR22 with a Wiland LLW Barrel, Kidd recoil rod and buffer, and TK extractor. I shortened the stock by about 1/2" to get a better length
  11. It's definitely not just carbon. Carbon doesnt get shiny when you cut into the crud. Edit: After cleaning, my barrel weighed in at 11.0 oz (I have the black barrel, not the stainless). I removed around .3 oz of lead buildup and that was after dissolving much of it with peracetic acid.
  12. For those of you who have never cleaned/scraped the inside of your barrel, try weighing if you remove it from your receiver. Per Wiland, a brand new barrel will weigh 10.5 oz; anything over that is lead/carbon buildup in your shroud. I ended up buying an 11/16 forstner bit (kind of a nuclear option, I know) and I'll let you know my results. I am presently 3d printing a coupler to hook it up to a hex rod that I'll use as my reamer shaft, and turn it by hand.
  13. Sounds like a good idea, I'll give it a shot!
  14. For those of you with Wiland LLW barrels. How do you remove the lead buildup inside the shroud just in front of the crown/muzzle face? Wire brushes don't seem strong enough so I ended up plugging the bore and filling the shroud with peracetic acid (what I use to clean my muzzle brake). It worked okay but there's still some stubborn lead buildup right in front of the crown. Any ideas?
  15. Drawing from holster I can comfortably do S&H at .80s. ACCL, RDBT, and 5TG at 1.20-1.25s, and OTLM at 1.35s. Pushing speed I can shave off 10% from the above but my hits are inconsistent.
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