Alleycatdad

...indeed you are correct. My bad, as usual.. SA

..and, you must also read ALL of the rules. Per the glossary, "Standing: The compeitior's body is fully erect with both feet planted firmly onthe ground or other designated position" So, "Standing with wrists below belt".... SA

Another vote for the LPA here. Gotta keep an eye on the mounting screws but that's true for any rear sight. SA

For 9mm and 45 acp in the revolvers I use a Lee U sizing die and less crimp. Solves the bullet pull and keeps the coating/gilding/jackets intact.

Yeah, frame mounting is specifically not allowed. Welcome back to open...but if you were closer I'd keep you company. SA

That's sweet! I've been thinking about shortening up the backup gun....you're not helping. SA

This is exactly how I got back into reloading....

No, really, I see what he's saying. If the perfs are aligned as noted in the diagram, and the area outside the perf, of course, doesn't exist, and the area up to and including the perf on the no-shoot are impenetrable, then what, exactly, is the shot that touches the perf of the overlying no-shoot scoring on? I know it's not how it's done, but I can see his point. SA

I jumped through all of these hoops and more, being terribly nearsighted and shooting irons. I tried upper corrections to my front sight distance, front sight correction strong eye, distance weak eye, all of it. My conclusion? After a lot of tests trying different things I found that my accuracy for USPSA shooting is just fine with standard progressives and blurry sight blobs--in fact, my points are consistently higher with the standard progressive lenses when I shoot identical stage setups with the various options I've had made for me over the last few years. Which was annoying, and expensive. The exception to this rule is long targets, which at my local ranges don't happen much. Beyond 25 yds I need to take a little more time to visualize the sight blurs into some sort of alignment to score As. But it's so much better for the rest of what we shoot that I'll take that extra bit of time for those rare shots. Do talk to Chris at Hunter's Gold-- he's a great guy and may have suggestions for you based on what has worked for others. SA

..and while we're at it, you should have been there too. 11 revolvers!

I was there. Gun is well within the 180, camera guy is well outside the 180. 0 degree downrange is to the left.

Large pistol magnum CCI at brownells. limit 2. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/primers/pistol-primers/pistol-primers-prod79081.aspx

Winchester Small rifle at midway. One per, of course...

Winchester small pistol at Midway, limit 1, free shipping but hazmat.

There is a TON of really good feedback and advice in this thread. What you do with it is up to you. Steve

Just….why? Reads like F1 rules. And we keep changing them based on the last years’ results to improve parity or some such? Seriously, I’m the least competitive guy out there but I too have been through the “yer revolver ain’t competitive in its own division any more” 6 to 8 shot change, and that was un-fun and expensive, but nobody really cared, because revolver. I suspect open and limited guys might carry a little more weight. Leave it be. Can we all just go have a nice day shooting now?

FWIW.. https://www.natchezss.com/cci-standard-primers-350-mag-large-pistol.html

For a variety of reasons not important to this discussion, all I've shot in my 929 is factory ammo. There is ZERO doubt that for competition, including lightening the action and accuracy reasons, it's best to handload, but if you can't, here's some observations: 1) All factory ammo is NOT the same, even batch to batch. I have several thousand rounds of pre-pandemic remington left in the safe and it shoots great in the 929, as does the newer but much more expensive post-pandemic ammunition of the same part number, but there is a significant difference in measured velocity between new and old batches. - bullet retention has varied for me also batch to batch in several brands.. I've had winchester white box pull bullets after 4 shots in the past but the batch I'm working through now is fine. -Do NOT go out and buy a bunch of federal factory to try to get the same effect as handloading federal primers; not only are the factory federal demonstrably harder than even S&B, Federals will have the bullet lying in the cylinder surrounded by powder after five shots, at least in my gun. This is exciting when it ignites. 2) As noted above, testing with available factory rounds is critical. I'm lucky that I have a shop that will hold an allotment for me while I go test a box of whatever it is, but this can be a killer these days. By FAR, the softest and easiest to fire factory rounds for me are Remington. CCI blazer brass, Winchester white box, federal (both jacketed and syntech) will all go off with the strain screw turned in another half to 3/4 of a turn. Fiocchi won't ignite reliably in my gun no matter what I do. YMMV, but I wish someone had shared this with me two years ago... 3) If you're shooting USPSA, know that Remington and CCI are currently chronoing about 155-160 fps below advertised velocities out of my 929, which makes them subminor. I chronoed 125.5 with the Remington at a local this month, and subsequent testing tells me I clearly got very lucky with that. Winchester white box and all tested federal rounds tested somewhat higher than advertised. 4) syntech is readily available here and is tempting given that it makes power factor and I've seen no bullet jump with it, however, it sucks for revolver reloads with the flat point bullet and seemingly slightly "sticky" coating. Again, federal jacketed is unusable for me due to bullet jump. Make SURE your gunsmith knows you're shooting factory rounds. My current trigger pull is right at 7 lbs for all factory ammo except for the fiocchi, but it took a ton of detail work and testing to get it there. I do all my own work so my gunsmith is an idiot.... If you're patient and careful and wiliing to replace a part or two when you take too much off, and you're willing to do the research, most revolver work is doable, but it really is best to send it out if you have doubts about any of the foregoing. If you burn gravy or get lumps of pasta because you just can't stand to stand there and stir it, send your gun out. Just sayin. Again, the BEST advice is build a good load with crushed federal primers, and (while...) tuning the gun to shoot it. It's a rabbit hole for sure to do right but is certainly worth it. FWIW Steve

I did that mod on my competition guns; only difference is I use a setscrew in both locations. That way the same allen works in both, and I have more adjustment available since there's no head on the strain screw. Plus, setscrews are much harder than the factory strain screws, so they don't mushroom against the spring. SA

In my experience, as long as you keep it low on the frame, you'll just get a dirty thumb. Up by the forcing cone? Glove's not gonna help... SA

...and a bag or jar to dump your cylinder into between strings, so you can pick out the unfired rounds later....

Depends on the gun. I have a terrible habit of pinching the middle finger of my weak hand in the crane of the 625 while closing it during a reload; the glove, somehow , solves that. the 929 gets significantly hotter than the 625, and the glove makes it easier to hold it while the RO tries to remember his revolver range commands at the end of the stage. It also protects my finger from the forcing cone if I touch it during a reload. yes, I know that a weak hand reload solves all of those issues, but I have short fingers with arthritis and cannot get the cylinder open reliably with that technique. Also, I’m old and set in my ways…..

I get pretty good life out of em, but I only wear it while I shoot. Otherwise the tape tears em up. A year is about as long as they’ll go, if I shoot revolvers consistently.

Marnie Patchett did a great job getting some round gun pix yesterday!

I got the email. Just a suggestion, but any time you make it easier for people to pay you, it's good for you... A link in the email to the preorder page, or even to the website, might help. SA