Nic_USPSA_C

Thank you. Having trouble with fitting the slide and frame. Not good at the lapping process. Just replaced a frame on an STI and stoned it to fit and that turned really good. I have access to a mill but have limited skills at using it. You can see some “chatter” in the cuts. I have to setup the mill so that I can use the Vice and cutting tools I have available. This limits what I can do. I really need to learn how to properly fit a barrel, I am pretty sure this one is not right. It works but probably not up to quality standards.

I have that issue on my first built open gun. What has worked for me is putting the ammo in a ziplock back and a couple squirts of light oil. Just a really light coat on the bullets. It works in this gun and that issue went away as long as I do this.

Seems like using random sort didn’t always space the ro’s. My question was more along the lines of scoring and using the tablet. Squads like to have the correct shooting order on the tablet. Interested in how people handle placing RO’s in the shooting order on the tablet.

I was afraid of that m, it works so good I wish they would get it to work on both.

Looks good. I had feeding issues and it ended up being my Mags. There are videos in tuning mags, I doubted this myself since I had brand new MBX mags but after I measured the mags with a caliper and adjusted them my feeding issues have gone away. It was a day and night difference.

That’s what I was always worried about, that is why I placed a piece of metal banding under the hook. As long as I filed down to the banding I knew there was still a hook left. The black colored banding also lets you know when you file down to it as the paint starts to get removed. Keeping the banding under the hook has worked for me. This keeps the depth of the hook consistent across the Hammer. I just filed straight across the hammer, it creates a flat or straight area but it has worked for me numerous times. I do not do anything to the sear.

As the title says, Just curious how many people have built their own open gun. I have built 2 and my first one did not go great. I am currently running my second build and I am thinking about starting my third.

If you want to keep cost down and want to try something you could try the following: What I have done to improve trigger pull and reset on a factory hammer is to remove the hammer from the gun. I took a piece of thick black metal banding and set it against the sear hooks on the hammer. I used a file and I filed the hooks down to the banding. The banding ensured that I did not remove the hook and that I kept it consistent. Once done the hooks were half as deep, required the sear to travel half as far before the hammer drops. This results in a shorter trigger pull and a lighter trigger pull. If you screw up the hammer you will have to buy a new one and that is when you get the race hammer. If you order a race hammer the first thing you will notice is that the hammer hooks are not but as deep as the factory hammer ones are.

How do you handle this at your matches? How do you adjust the shooter order to allow adequate spacing between RO’s so that they can shoot?

Will need to check this out. I like how you can draw and drop the shooting order on an IPad but I cannot figure out how to do it with a Kindle. Anyone know how?

Thanks for all of the info.

Anyone actually have one of these?

The link works. So do I need to come to this topic, Sind this post everytime I need to check a message? I also get a message about having notifications, have no idea how to see my notices. If I want to check my profile I make a post so that I can click on my name.

I like when people shoot a falling forward popper multiple times keeping it up and they think it just will not fall.

Still cannot figure out how to get to my mail. Tried the above ideas. Using an I phone.

Nice looking gun

I will put some tape in my bag and try this out. thanks

Take the front of the optic? Have a picture of this to share?

Lacking skills and equipment I did mine my putting the comp on the barrel, installed the barrel in the slide and clamped it in the vise as one piece. I used a 45 degree carbide cutter to cut the tri-top

The plate system has its advantages, I just don’t like how it looks with the gap between the front of the dot and the slide. I realize this is necessary to make it work with all of the different dots but just doesn’t look right to me.

I have 3 open 2011 and I am a fan of CZ, have always thought about adding a Czechmate or Tanfo to my collection. I really like the look of the Domina. The thing that worries me the most are the magazines. Is there a good source for additional magazines? Do 28 round mags run in these guns?

If you are like me, you will probably end up with both. Since you will always wonder if the other option would be better.

I built a shorty and the comp sits inside the frame, I do not use any thread locker, just tighten it up and the frame keeps it from rotating. So far so good. Time will tell if this will work out.

With the shortage of 9mm ammo I changed our USPSA match to what I call an Action Match and added Rimfire Iron and Rimfire Optic as an option. Cannot buy 9mm but our local stores have .22lr and for $10 in ammo you can easily shoot the match.

Thanks for the info guys.