jejb

If you mean their RDS system, then yes, it accepts their propriety plates for different optics. And they have an iron site plate as well. Nice system. Depending on the optic you run, you may have a gap between the front of the optic and slide.

I understand, but that ship has sailed. When I added in the bushing barrel, trigger work and hand fitting, the Orange made more sense to me. And still does. Just having trouble with pulling the trigger on milling the slide. Might look for an extra slide and have CZC do the bushing mod and their RDS system. But that's a big investment compared to just doing the RDS on the Orange slide. Would give me the option of easily shooting production too, though.

I've never had to get a slide milled before. The guns I wanted have all had options from the factory that gave me the optics cut (X5, Q5 Match, Sig RX's, etc). So I find myself with an S2 Orange. I could have bought an S2 OR, but wanted the upgrades that the Orange has, figuring I'd just get the slide milled. But now I'm having a hard time bringing myself to send it to be milled. So the question. Does milling a slide impact resale value at the gun shop? I may well never sell the gun, so it's not my biggest hangup, but just trying to think it all through. It just pains me to have a new gun milled. I have a CZC steel universal dovetail mount on it for now, with an SRO. But I doubt I'll live with that long term. The optic cut I'm looking at is CZC's RDS system. They are coming out with steel adapter plates for their RDS system. I'm not a fan of alum plates for red dot mounts.

I just installed the CZC universal plate on my S2O. I was not a fan of these generally because the ones I've used in the past were alum. Makes it hard to keep the screws torqued, and they are easy to pull the threads out of if you use Trijicon specs (15in lbs). But this CZC plate is made from steel and there is no issue with torquing. The locating dowels are a very tight fit too. This is a big step above the rest for sure. Time will tell if I get the slide milled. I have an extra complete slide from a regular S2. So I may just stick the money into it with a bushing and optic mount. Hate to mill the stock slide, but at the same time, I feel like I'm leaving something on the table if I'm not shooting that slide.

Romeo's are nice, when they work. If you get a good one, they are a great optic. I've had multiple failures from them, so I'm not such a big fan. I got an SRO for my S2O instead.

CZ-Custom has a universal dovetail mount that is made out of steel, not aluminum like most. The alum mounts threads strip easily and are more problematic, in my experience. CZC is often out of stock on them, but I was only on their waiting list a few days before they had inventory to fill the order.

Message sent. Thanks.

Thanks for adding more pictures, but do you have any closer looks at the optic cut straight from the side? Be nice to see how deep it is.

I've owned guns with dovetail mounts and optic cut guns. I even bought a Boss Components mount for my new S2, which did not work well. I'm going to be sending my slide off to be milled. If you get a good DT mount and the optic stays, it works and all. But the offset difference is pretty significant. Several inches of difference from say 7 to 20 yards. And to me, the optic comes up more naturally on milled slides.

I've had bad luck with alum plates, even with carefully using the Fat Wrench to torque them, so I stay away from them. I talked to someone at CZC the other day and he said they will soon be making the RDS plates out of steel. So you could likely get that up to 20 in/lbs w/o pulling the threads.

It has been mentioned, but I agree it is one that is hard to put in after the fact. The Orange slide is not the same as the Blue either. The front sight is pinned on the blue but screwed down on the orange. I think the reason for that the pinned slides can crack when opened up enough for the orange type bushing. I bought the Orange. Enjoying shooting it. CZ customer service is not in the same zipcode of what I'm used to with Sig, but it is what it is. I'll be sending the slide off to be milled for an optic. I'm on CGW's waiting list for that.

XXXXXXXXX has Federal #100 SP primers in stock. For $280 a thousand! I called and confirmed. I get stepping on the price a little, but almost 6 times MSRP? I hope stores like this suffer through some well deserved bad karma when things get back to normal. Edited to delete company name as per guidelines.

Using up some old Unique right now. For 115gr 9mm, the powder height is pretty high in the brass. To the point I've got to be slower/smoother with pulling the handle on my 650XL. Not enjoying loading it, but I only have a pound or so left in the jug, and want to get rid of it. Shoots well, though.

I went ahead and pulled the slide apart. Glad I did. Stuff they ship them with made the firing pin spring stick a bit, and the extractor had too much grease on it. Still curious on if there is better documentation/manuals available for these.

Picked up my new S2O yesterday, my first CZ. Strictly a range/comp gun. Did a quick clean/lube on it at the gun shop/range and ran 50 rounds through it. A bit milder recoil impulses than my X5. Really nice trigger. One thing I didn't like about the trigger was the difference in trigger position between SA and DA. Had to reach up a ways to engage it on the DA pulls. I have a P229 Legion SA/DA and it is more consistent that way. I have XL/XXL hands, so it was not a big deal, just something different than I'm used to. I'm sure I'll get used to it. VERY accurate gun. Just wondering if I should take the slide apart for a good cleaning also? I see some grease oozing from the extractor a bit, which makes me think it's been factory over lubed. Is oil okay for the slide rails or is grease recommended? Came with a bunch of different springs. I'll shoot it a bit before deciding if I need to change them out. Thinking I may want to lighten up the DA pull, but time will tell. Nary a hiccup out of the 50 124gr bullets yesterday. Any recommendations on things to clean or watch for would be appreciated. I'll go through the mags and clean them up today. Is there a good armorers/repair manual for these guns? I read the owners manual, and it doesn't even talk about the springs that were included, so shows me detail is lacking. So hoping there is a better source I can download or buy. I know there are lots of YT vids, but would prefer a more all inclusive type of thing.

Ah, got it, thanks. Looks like the TSO is a limited or higher class gun, not what I'm after.

I guess I don't know the answer. Is the regular Shadow 2 Orange called a TS?

That does probably make the most sense. But in watching some YT vids on the Orange, it seems a lot more internal polishing and hand fitting takes place than the OR version has. All of those little touches might be harder/more expensive to duplicate. Another question. What are all the differences between the TSO Orange the non-TSO model? I know SA vs SA/DA, different trigger shape and no accubushing. Are there other differences? I see some say the TSO is an upgrade over the normal Orange, but it's cheaper and seems to not have as many features, so confusing. Appreciate the input so for. Thanks!

Thanks. So if those are the upgrades, can they be duplicated on the S2OR (except the hand fitting of the slide), and for what cost? And do any of them make a big difference? I've handled an blue SA and an orange SA/DA S2 in stores. Both triggers in SA mode seemed very nice. Hard to tell the difference from dry firing. But it could well be more noticeable in live fire. I don't know anyone that owns either gun, so can't range test them before buying. An additional question about the OR. Do they come with plates, or do you have to buy them separately? Looks like they are not included, but just confirming that.

I'm am in the market for my first CZ and am focused on a Shadow 2. The closest I have now is a Sig P320 X-5 (not a Legion). I really like the X5, but have read so much good about the Shadow 2, that I want to get one to see for myself. I've been researching the S2's, and it's a bit confusing with all of the models and sub-models. I think I've simplified the choices a bit as a requirement is an optic mount. So you'd think, no brainer, blue S2OR, right? And that is the way I'm leaning. But I hate to leave features on the table. I'm also interested in the SA/DA S2 orange. But then I have to pay to have an optic cut put in the slide, and I really hate to do that to a new gun anyway. I would if there is some compelling reason, though. Which brings me back to the subject question. If I get an S2OR, what are all the differences from it to the orange model (besides the optic mount, of course), and how much would it take to bring the OR up to that level? Or is that even possible? If I'm going to eventually spend as much or more upgrading the OR just to reach to orange level, I'd need to take another look at cutting the orange guns slide, I guess. Thanks for any insight.

As I mentioned, my RCBS is a progressive press, but still so much slower to load with. I think they call it the "load master". I don't think I have the patience for a single stage. Never owned one.

I only have my 650XL setup to load 9mm's. I had upgraded to it from an older progressive RCBS press. I needed to load some 40, which I don't shoot much anymore. My main reason for upgrading was to get a case feeder, which is not an option on my RCBS setup. Switching back sure reinforced what a good decision that was! Having to feed in a case and bullet on each stroke of the loader really slows things down. I loaded up 400 .40's and it was SLOW going. If I loaded a little more 40, I'd probably think about getting the 650 setup for it. But it costs me nothing but time to swap presses and these 400 rounds will last me all year probably. So not worth it. Sure was nice to get back on the 650. Cranked out 400 9's in half the time of the RCBS. That'll last me for a week.

I did not know that, thanks. I've only ever loaded copper coated bullets over the last 30 years or so of loading.

If you run the RCBS seating/crimping die, it opens up a station. Works great on my 650.