jkrispies

Update. Yesterday I shot my first real Steel Challenge match since the accident. Lots of little issues crept up, mainly from me needing to shake off the cobwebs to ammunition issues and some other stuff. I was also shooting my RFRO for the first time in a year AND took a new chassis system out for its inaugural run. The day was going kinda lousy until I had a breakthrough moment on the last state of the day-- on my second string of Speed Option, I experienced an out of battery case head separation (yes, with a rimfire!!!) that blew a crap ton of gas in my face from a half-open bolt. After I cleared the gun and ran a quick mag through it to make sure everything still worked, something clicked in my brain and I shot the last three strings like I wished I'd shot the entire match. I ended up with a Personal Record on that stage. Woo-hoo! ?

+1. I've owned the smaller MOA FF3 and it's not worth the bother, but I've looked through several 8moa FF3's on other folks' guns, and that one looks like a solid choice.

Here's a summary of what I'm gathering fro this thread, if folks would like to chime in if I'm off-base or not: 1. 10-18x is the most commonly used powers within actual competition. 2. Greater than 18x is preferable for accuracy testing, and while it is not excluded from competition purposes, it is unlikely to be used in most competitions. 3. 34mm or 35mm body allows greater adjustment and light gathering capability. And, not in this thread, but from what I've gathered elsewhere and just on my personal want list: 4. First/Front Focal Plane 5. An excellent reticle like a Horus So, now to put this into a potential scope purchase... I've been impressed with a previous Burris XTRii 1-5x I've owned. While I'm not ruling out going a 5-25x route, since the thread topic revolves around potential use on the low end of magnification, what are PRS folks' thoughts on: Burris XTRii 4-20x50, 35mm Tube, First Focal Plane, Horus reticle https://www.opticsplanet.com/burris-201044-xtr-ii-4-20x50mm-obj-25-8-5-4ft-100yd-fov-34mm-dia-g2b-md-il.html?_iv_code=BR-RS-42050XTR2-201041

I like a 14.5” LOP. ?

One SWPL match I shot we started with about 75 shooters and only a handful, I think 8, of us finished the entire match because the wind was gusting so hard it kept blowing over the barricades so that each stage had to be reset after every shooter. On one stage I had to go prone, and luckily I was shooting a Glock because when I cleaned the gun that night, pebbles literally fell out of the lower from being blown into the gun when it was cycling. The majority of the guys quit early because they couldn’t keep thier 2011’s running in the dust. It’s the one match where I can say that I beat Taran Butler... because he’d already earned enough points to earn his SWPL cup for the year so he called it quits after the first stage and went back to his warm and comfortable home, LOL.

I’d say no in terms of bullet flight (at that range) but I’ve been in situations where the wind is strong enough to push ME around, which gets in the way of my being able to aim with stability.

Hi all! I'd like to hear if folks have input on Modular Driven Technologies chassis? I'm looking in particular at their ESS chassis, but overall impressions across their product line are appreciated. I sent them an email question about compatibility with my rifle but haven't heard back yet. I'm hoping I can get make things work with this gun if they build a quality product. Thanks, J

I recently had this discussion about using drones to record game film at high school football games. I didn’t verify it, but I was told that they’ve been banned at college games for safety reasons. That’s why cameras on cables are still so prevalent on televised sporting events.

Two no’s for me under the following conditions: 1. If the noise is loud enough to mess with electonic muffs, as in it permanently shuts them off turning them into passives. I see this as a safety issue. 2. If it’s in an anti 2A state. The last thing I need is to be even more paranoid about who the big brother is that is tracking me and my equipment. Even if it’s a fellow competitor with totally noble intentions, depending on the day I will pack my bags and go home. Many of my fellow shooters will do the same. If this seems too paranoid to the reader, then I say congratulations to you for living in a place where gun ownership and use is tantamount to civil disobedience. If the above two criteria are non-issues, then go for it.

Ironically, I’ve been building up my revolver rig. Good timing for me, lol.

So what’s the magnification range you would recommend?

Now that's an answer! ??

Glad to see the increase in competition!

So that begs the question of what folks are actually using for magnification on the very bottom end? Or maybe the more appropriate question might be: what are the closer targets looking like in terms of distance and size? I could more easily guesstimate my low end magnification with that info than far targets.

My noggin’ is on the larger side too. Don’t get Ear Pros: Their plastic bands are garbage. 3M products (including Peltor) do use metal bands. I’ve used a Peltor Tactical Sport which you might find for $100 on sale) for many years and highly recommend them. My current muffs are Sordins which are way more expensive but the Peltors are nearly as good in all respects.

So based on these couple of responses, something in theb16-18x range such as a Leupold VX-6 3-18x or Razor HD 3-18x might be ideal?

Sorry to leave topic a bit, but +1 at Level 1 matches allowing a brand new centerfire pistol shooter to do it without a draw. It's safer and lets the shooter get a feel for the sport before investing in a proper rig. Just don't let the shooter submit the times for classification (they never have a number at that point anyway) and don't worry about it-- these shooters always come in last place or thereabouts regardless, so in the end it's not like they're cheating. Advise them to buy a holster (and mags-- they never have enough mags!!!!) for next month and chances are you'll have recruited a new shooter into the sport rather than turning them away because they unknowingly didn't come prepared.

My learning curve for PRS is in its infancy, but I'm gathering that folks are gravitating towards higher magnification variable scopes. I've always been one to preach that the average shooter tends to "over-scope" their rifles when it comes to choosing their variable power range, as higher magnification means a smaller field of view. Personally, I'd love all of my scopes to start at 1x and go up from there... but I'm not shooting PRS yet!!! So, my question to those who are actually shooting it: what''s the lowest viable power range of scope that will work in PRS? 4.5-30x? 1-8x? Somewhere in between? I know that this is extremely variable depending on individual shooter preferences as well as various match designs, weather conditions, etc., etc., but I'm also curious if there's a preponderance of folks who have 25x scopes and never dial them up higher than 15x in competition because the narrowed field of view hurts them too much when transitioning from one target to the next... or maybe there's a bunch of shooters with 14x scopes who really wish they had a 25x because there's so many little targets waaaaay out there. Or maybe there's one crazy dude at everybody's club who shows up with a 1-8x on a .308 bolt, and he inexplicably kicks everybody's butt with it month in and month out. THAT is the data/advice I'm looking to gather. Thanks, J

Great choice! Congrats, Stick!

This is what we used to do 25+ years ago playing paintball and wearing goggles over glasses. Worked well enough in those days, but hopefully things have improved since then.

Reload between each string ensures you have a routine (mental reset) between each string. Also prevents the “oops I just ran out of bullets” moment common amongst newbies. And the gun weight is consistent and lighter. I also always step to the line with a minimum of six mags in case there’s a magazine related equipment failure mid-string.

I will safely guess that a laser will slow you down in SC vs. a properly practiced technique with the sights. Remember that you have to start every string with the gun shouldered and aimed on the start flag in low ready, so there's no "Oh, look, my first shot just happens to be aimed already!" type of starts. I suppose it might be an advantage for some shooters on the first shot of Smoke and Hope, but after the first shot you'll be properly shouldered and going fast using your sights. Maybe the same could be true on Accelerator's first shot if you start on the near large plate. Beyond that, you'll get left in the dust with authority if you try to use a laser for aiming, at least in my humble opinion. So, on second thought, if anybody wants to compete against me using a laser: it's a great idea!!! ??????????

1. Don’t pick up other people’s brass at the stage unless you’re given permission to do so by that shooter. I’ve seen folks get testy when they’ve gone back to pick up thier .38sup or .45acp and discover that somebody else has beat themvto it while they were shooting. 2. Get a “brass wizard” tool (it’s a little round cage on a stick) that makes it go faster. 3. Ideally do it after the match but I think when your squad is standing around doing nothing it is fine as long as you’re picking it up at the perimeter of the stage (basically the 180 line) so you’re not getting in the way of the active squad. You won’t make any friends by spending the time you’re supposed to be scoring and resetting picking up the brass of the guys who are scoring and resetting. 4. And, like others are saying, make sure it’s not a lost brass match. I don't pick up brass during matches because no matter how you do it slows down the match or at least distracts the squad on the line. Furthermore, it tires me out unnecessarily, and I want to keep my mind and body on the game and not that side stuff. Of course... there’s been times that I know I need brass to reload for an upcoming match, so at those times I’ll just keep an eye on all the stages for shooting boxes or corners where I know that everybody is going to be standing in one spot and shooting a crap ton of rounds. I’ll go back to those positions at the end of the day and basically just shovel it all in a bucket and sort it out later at home.

I think I’ll go with the latter, LOL.

Yes, and I understand that the concept is to get a feel for speed, but the above should have emphasis on “for advanced shooters” when setting that fast of a par. Too fast of a par for anyone is a recipe for sloppy technique. I’m a GM on multiple guns, and I’ve learned to keep my pars set .05 second slower than my ability, and when I’m feeling that I’m.1 faster than par with consistent technique, I shrink it by .05. In other words, if you’re an up and coming RFRO shooter who has never shot a sub 2 second run, don’t try to make the same par as a GM who has logged sub 7’s for a full stage. If your goal is 10 seconds on smoke and hope, then set a 2.4 second par and intelligently work to that end— if you’re not making your goals, analyze why and create drills which exercise those specific needed skills.