nikdanja

This sounds like a good idea! I’ll triy this out.

Where did you buy that from? I’m not similar with that product.

I shoot a .401 Polly bullet and for years the bullets have always been giving me problems, Redding factory crimp die sucks so please don’t suggest this. I’ve tried it and it blows. I’m looking at a legit competition die that will seat the bullet perfectly straight more consistently. I have dillon dies now and they are doing the job but I’m tired of whistling money by having bullets be off center and therefor not case gusting properly.

We’ve all been there. Shot a great stage and here comes a guy that’s been stuck in B class for the past 2 years telling me I could save time by doing this, this and this.

I’m using xtreme bullets for plating. I just talked to Adam from Atlas where I bought the gun from and he seems to think it’s a barrel issue also if I get top quality bullets and it still tumbling. Really disappointed in the barrel but maybe I got one from a bad batch. Of course it’s gojng to happen right as the season gets going!

I use 2 different bullets and always have for the last 2 years. The first bullet is a molly Coates bullet that i use for loacal matches and practice sessions. I’ve used this bullet for years and I’ve shot at least 30k rounds and they all have flown great. Diameter is .401 the second bullet is a plated bullet that I use for major matches and the diameter is .400. Once again I’ve shot thousands of these bullets and they have always worked fine. Now all of a sudden I’m having tumbling issues. 1 out of 150 with the molly bullets will tumble and 1 out of 20 of the played bullets will tumble. WTF? I checked my crimp and it’s barley vizable. You can tell a small distinct ring around the bullet so it’s not due to over crimping. I havent changed my powder charge and everything has staged has stayed the same for years. I’m just now having this problem. Its a KKM barrel with around 30k rounds.

How high or low does the hit factor have to be to send a make up after a called Charlie?

I’m using coated bullets.

Got it all set up and it’s rough getting the case into the die but when it’s in it’s smooth, just like it should be. When I go to bring the case out of the die, I meet the same resistance that I had going into the die. I even put some case lube on some cases and still had the same problem. Is this normal?

I use ballistol and run it very wet. When I go to put it back in the safe it only had 50 rounds thru it. Temp. In the room where my safe is around 70 degrees.

I have a WOA barrel with a low mass BCG from AIM surplus. When the rifle is clean and stored away and I come back to it days/weeks later I can cycle the bolt with ease. When its dirty, the bolt sticks almost like it’s glued to the inside of the barrel until I force it open. The first couple times it happened I thought it was odd cause I only put a couple hundred rounds thru it and didn’t think it was to dirty. I did it just now after only shooting 50 rounds since the last cleaning and now it’s something internally. Once again, it doesn’t do this when the rifle is completely clean. Ive always shot my hand loads which I don’t think are any more dirty than good factory ammo. I’m using CFE 223 and 748 pushing a 55gr bullet just under 3000fps. I’ve tuned the gas system and even when cleaning nothing looks abnormal on the bolt or from what I can see from the barrel. Any thoughts?

I shoot mostly Uspsa in the Philly area. There’s lower providence uspsa new holland uspsa west shore uspsa ountelaunee Uspsa. These will keep you busy. If you you don’t want to share a cell with some guy named pookie, Stay away from old bridge like the guy mentioned in the top post. Also your guns will instantly rust once you cross the bridge.

H

Will this catapult me into GM status and uspsa glory?

i want To buy a bullet feeder and noticed that there’s a bit of a price gap between the ones that are out there. I like the hornady one cause it’s $350 bucks but don’t know if that’s better than a DAA. What’s some reviews that you guys have?

Why

5.7 of WSF 180gr xtreme hp gets me 168-170 1.185-1.190 Atlas Titan

I have an edge that has a lightened slide and I want to make it a designated steel gun. What bullet and spring weight do you guys use?

Then how do you know when you have the perfect load? How will you know if the load is to light, just right, or to over powered?

How light do you guys make your rifle ammo? Just getting into the 3 gun game and have all the bells and wissles on my gun, but didn’t know if you guys make bunny fart loads for the courses that are really close and save your match grade ammo for the longer 200+ courses? Is is there advantages for making bunny fart loads to lessen recoil as much as possible? Yes i I have an adjustable gas block, light weight bcg and a taccom buffer.

Was it just a basic hornady die?

Was it just a basic hornady die?

If I move the seating die then my OAL will be off

Im using a round nose and my seater system does match the profile of the bullet. Tomorrow I’ll try flaring more

Nope. Didn’t work. Same problems and I flared it pretty good too. Im shaving lead right above where the case ends and the bullet starts. It’s almost like if I took a file out and removed material from the one side of the bullet that’s not perfectly straight, then it would fit in the guage no problem. Which is essentially what I’m doing by working the bullet in and out of the guage. Well, I dunno if straight is the right word because I don’t know what the problem is or how to fix it. I’m assuming the problem lies in my seater die but don’t want to spend $918274782 on different dies trying to fix the problem. Hoping someone one had the same problem as me and can help out.