ExtremeShot

What will that cost?

Ryan, Somehow I missed your message above. Yep, that should work as well. You should dress it up with some brownells bake-on spray. Glad I could help. Darren

I guess it is, if drilling a hole in the slide is an issue with you. I've installed several ball spring plungers and I've also installed several rackers with the ball and spring in the racker. I still like the ball spring plunger the best. The best thing about the ball spring plunger is that it is adjustable. When you put the spring and ball in the racker, if you don't have enough meat (top to bottom), you have to make sure you don't drill too deep and go all the way through the racker, and you have to cut the spring way down. Additionally, the damn staking tool that comes with it doesn't work that well so you end up having to try to hold that little ball in there with a flat punch while trying to stake the sides of the hole with another punch and a hammer. Good luck finding the ball and spring if they go flying out. Darren

Duh...It's metric. 1cm on center.

Just an FYI...the Double Alpha mount that I've seen (a customer wants me to install one on his Tanfoglio) does NOT have the same screw spacing as the other C-More mounts (like the Allchin, Cheely, etc.). The Allchin, Cheely, etc, are spaced at .375" on center. The Double Alpha appears to be spaced at .400". Can anyone confirm this? Thanks, Darren

I made several aluminum test comps a while back. I didn't notice much with balance...if anything, the gun felt like it swung quicker, similar to a shorty. However, I did have problems with erosion around the edges of the baffles, especially when shooting 9major loads. I currently have one of my aluminum test comps on my .40 open bowling pin gun. Anodizing would add a lot of life to an aluminum comp. I've never anodized one so I can't tell you how much more life. I can tell you that I'd rather make a comp out of aluminum than steel. Aluminum cuts like butter so the work goes quicker, plus you don't eat up all your end mills. Darren

That's a pretty cool old lathe. What size is it? Regarding tools, I've bought stuff from Grizzly, Enco, MSC, ebay, Shars, etc, etc. There's a lot of Chinese made stuff that is not too bad. You can find a lot of it on ebay. A lot of Grizzlies stuff is Chinese but when they get it in they go over it with a fine tooth comb. Darren

I had tennis elbow for several years. I wore one of those forearm straps all the time to mitigate the pain, but then last year the pain got worse and wouldn't go away. It was so bad that I couldn't shake hands, couldn't pick up a glass of water, and definitely couldn't grip my gun with enough force to control recoil. My last two major matches were a joke. No way should I have been shooting. My search for relief started with my primary care provider. He looked me over and gave me a cortisone shot. I was pain free for two weeks, then it all came back. He sent me to a specialist. The specialist (orthepedic surgeon) wouldn't see me unless I absolutely needed surgery. So I had to go see his gatekeeper doc first. This doc prescribed oral steroids and sent me to physical therapy. The PT just made things worse. So then a friend told me about Plasma Rich Platlet injections. She had it done on her elbow and it fixed things up. So I went to see that doctor and they discovered that I had some micro tearing of my tendon and that I had some "holes" where I missing some collogen (the stuff that tendons are made of). They did a fat graft (filled the holes in with some fat that they took out of my side), then took out some blood, processed it, then injected it into my elbow. After 6 weeks some of the pain in my forearm went away, but the pain in my elbow was still there and as bad as ever. Next I went back to the gatekeeper doc who finally said I was a surgery candidate and refered me to the surgeon (who happens to be the St. Louis Cardinals surgeon). The surgeon looked me over, asked a bunch of questions, then sent me to another doctor to have a nerve conductivity test performed. The reason for this was that he asked if I ever had tingling in my hand, which I replied that I did on occasion. ...The results of the test showed that I also had nerve damage. He said I had radial tunnel and cubital tunnel and mild carpal tunnel. The radial and cubital tunnel would also be fixed during the surgery to repair my tendon. The mild carpal tunnel stuff would not be fixed. I had the surgery on Dec. 27. After reading the surgery report, it looks like they just removed the damaged tissue and some of the damaged bone. It doesn't appear anything was sewn up (I'll talk to the doc again in Feb). They also decompressed the radial nerve and relocated my ulner nerve. Now I'm in rehab and wearing a splint to prevent my wrist from bending. I still have some pain in the elbow and my rehab lady says that I'm doing too much with my hand. Everything I've read says it will take 4 to 6 months to heal and that assumes you don't continue to use and stress the elbow. I can tell you that all this really sucks! Darren

Yep, 9mm.

I have a small mill from Grizzly (http://www.grizzly.com/products/Vertical-Mill/G3102). I also need a bigger mill!

Just watched the youtube videos....very nice! However, I can see that a DRO is almost required. The slack in the lead screw would throw off going back to center before making the turn. Dang, that's something else that I need. D

Thanks Chris! We must have been typing at the same time..you beat me to the "post" button.

The one in Brownells, looks exactly like the one in the picture I posted. However, the description mentions cutting the "bottom lug foot height". Got a picture of the new one? D

Hmm, I'll have to take a look at it. I agree...most of the time there was still quite a bit of work after using the Wilson cutter. Have you ever seen those AGI videos where the dude uses pin gages to figure out exactly how much to cut off, but then he uses a Wilson lug cutter (which, as I mentioned, only has two cutter sizes)? What are the chances of one of those two cutters being within a thou or two of the measure amount to be removed? Yeah right. D

Is this the fixture you are talking about?: If so, I don't have one, but I believe this fixture is used more for cutting the hood length and width. Cutting the lower lug is probably best done with the Wilson cutter (however, I don't like the fact that only two cutters are available for it). D

Yep. ...probably more than a few times.

28 thou on mine.

Eric, Disregard the last dumb comment...I see what you mean. I didn't realize there was enough material there to allow me to machine back the shoulder. I'm firing up the lathe now. Thanks Bro! Darren

I have a stock plug and it's too short. See attached. D

Anyone know of a recoil plug that is longer at the front that will be flush with an EGW oversized bushing? Thanks! Darren

Not a chance. Too many things to line up with irons. With a red dot, put the dot on the target, pull the trigger.

Yeah there is a better way....ram it up there hard (with the slide locked back), like you would when you are running and gunning. Like you suggest, blue the underside of the ejector and then see if you have a transfer to the top round (or look for a witness mark on the brass). You could also use a piece of tape on the brass and see if there is a little mark or tear. Simply pushing hard may not represent real world conditions where you would ram it up there hard. D [edited for typo]

Could be that it broke because you hit it with the magazine when you did a slide-lock reload. Lock the slide back, and see if the mag or the top round will hit the bottom of the ejector when pushing hard on the bottom of the mag. D

Forgot to say yesterday, sometimes the magazine can come up and hit the bottom of the ejector and that's what could have caused it to break. This is especially possible if you do a hard reload with the slide locked back. If you do some research on why some people modify their guns to prevent the slide from locking back, one reason they cite is breaking off the ejector. A lot of people will file off a little material on the under-side of the ejector to prevent the mag from hitting..it's usually just a little bit. Just put an empty mag up in the magwell (with the slide locked back) and watch where the mag hits the ejector. I know some people just stick the ejector in the gun without using the little cross pin to hold it in place. If the magazine comes up and hits the ejector and pushes it up, it could affect your ejection path. The slide would prevent it from coming up too far...but just a little bit changes the ejection (as every 9major open shooter will tell you). D [edited for typo]

BTW, the ejector won't come with the pin. Hopefully you can use the one that's probably still in your gun. If not, you can buy an STI Pin Kit. D