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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by emjbe

  1. no - we didn't swap out the bolts. if I get time to move triggers around again I may try a different bolt
  2. I have a bunch of this that I got from a friend who is LEO mixed in with regular brass and nickel plated brass. At first I thought it was aluminum and not reloadable. @shinnedid the cases load up for you ok? Any problems with the reloads after you washed them in soap only?
  3. I had the exact same problem with a triggertech adaptable trigger. Triggertech was extremely responsive - i sent the trigger to them and they tested it in several guns but couldn’t reproduce the behavior. I reproduced it in at least 2 lowers and ended up moving it to a lower where it didn’t exhibit the same problem. I also adjusted it to nearly the heaviest trigger weight. I couldn’t figure out why it exhibits the behavior in some lowers but works flawlessly in others. It’s currently in a very stock rifle-length buffer rifle and has been solid. Triggertech gave me all possible
  4. there's this: https://youngmanufacturing.net/staking-the-gas-key-on-the-ar-15-and-m-16-carrier/ My personal score on staking vs following Young Mfg advice: Staked keys: 1 came loose (FailZero), 1 broken screw (BCM) - both failures in the first ~2000 rounds YM method: 0 have come loose, 0 broken (including the FailZero which is now using this method and solid ever since).
  5. That’s good info - thanks! I did notice in a night match that my titegroup loads generated a LOT more smoke. Will try out the Bayou’s I have with different powder and see how it works.
  6. I’m saying your post about the USPSA rule is correct - the rules do not require that you put the weapon on safe for movement or mag changes, only that you “should” do so. I jumped in on this thread when you posted that 99.9% of shooters don’t put the weapon on safe during movement. The original post asked specifically about rifles, so I’m speaking specifically about rifles when I say that, in my observations, it’s a minority of shooters who do not put their long gun on safe during movement and reloads. However, as I re-read all the posts I think you wer
  7. following up from the match last week. On my squad 100% of the shooters I RO'ed moved the selector to "safe" during movement. It was clear to me either visually or I heard an audible click. On the 2 stages with reloads each of the people I watched moved the selector to "safe" during the reload. We had one first-time competitor, but he was obviously well trained and he operated the selector during movement also. note: @Sarge's post is correct about the rule being different than reality. the USPSA rules allow a competitor to move without the selector on "safe" as long a
  8. That’s not my experience. Of the people I RO i notice a large majority click the selector to “safe” every time the rifle is not on target (including movement on a stage and mag changes) and then move the selector to “fire” only when they are on target. I’d estimate 80% percent. We have a rifle match Saturday ... I’ll try to get some on video and try to keep track of the percentage who do it.
  9. I shot similar (Bayou) coated bullets in a PCC with Titegroup. Not only is @longbeardcorrect that they will make a mess out of the comp, but they will also require a lot more cleaning in your barrel (which I learned 2 stages into a match when the lead fouled the last inch or so of the barrel and I started shooting knuckle balls through my smooth bore).
  10. Here's Daniel Horner explaining the logic behind rifle balance:
  11. I have one of those ... wish I had bought several before they stopped making it. it's a really good balance of brake and flash hiding. At some point I'm planning to add on an Indian creek design blast forward device to my proctor and see how it does. The ICD blast forward does slightly reduce the effectiveness of the brakes that I have it on, but I regularly have people ask me if it's a suppressor because it makes the rifle so much quieter (to the people behind me). RO's tend to appreciate it very much. if you like the proctor device, there is a similar one made
  12. I used to think about weight until I heard someone (who shoots much faster than me) say his rifle is 10 pounds ... but it doesn't matter because you only use it for a few seconds at a time. For a 3gun rifle - balance is more critical than overall weight.
  13. yes ... but for a duty rifle or shooting inside the VG6 cage device is an absolute necessity if you are going to use the Epsilon.
  14. I agree with @StealthyBlagga's recommendation about starting with fewer guns being better. becoming and staying proficient in 3 guns is a LOT more time than 1 or 2. Also - equipment and ammo for 3 guns is, well, triple+ the price. And I found the shotgun equipment to be the most expensive and least used (example quad load shell holders). When you go with 3 guns you'll also need a BIG cart to carry all 3 guns and it's a LOT more weight with 6 different types of ammo (9mm, .233, bird shot, turkey loads, slugs, 00 buck). Unless he's a strapping 12 year old, you'll need a very strong back.
  15. I have the Arisaka also and mounted at 45 initially to avoid the obstruction. after 1 match I changed to 35. so I lose part of the field of view but the 35 just feels better and I don't really notice the loss on a stage with both eyes open. I see that obstruction a lot during dry fire ... but it hasn't been a problem after the buzzer goes off
  16. I had a similar problem in a maxima. It really liked 91 octane and was marginal with 87. My daughter took it to college and tried using 85 to save money. It misfired constantly with 85. She switched out the entire car (after being rear-ended) to a 4-cylinder and it runs perfectly with 85 octane. She complains occasionally about missing that “giddy up” she used to have. @kurtmseriously this is the best analogy I’ve seen about problems with cheap steel case ammo. I will be borrowing your reference many times in the future.
  17. I shoot a Calvin on my main 3gun rifle and have the KE SLT-1 on my PCC. I love both triggers. I recently acquired a new lower and ordered an SLT-2 for that one. It has a great feel to the trigger and i like that it can go on safe regardless of the hammer position. Also like that it works normally if junk gets into the trigger well. the Calvin is light. It wasn’t intended as a defensive trigger. I love it, but it’s designed for a flat range. I don’t know if it works well in PCC. I think you’d be better served by one of the timney 3-4 lb triggers for a defensive gun.
  18. The Quentin Defense ARQ-15 skelotonized fits your requirements: https://www.quentindefense.com/product/1861/ Quentin makes a lot of receivers for other sellers. I’ve been highly impressed with the quality of equipment made by Quentin.
  19. @kkant - welcome to the forums. But I can't figure out - how is it that you've been thinking about this for 11 years when you joined the forum this morning? Also: https://lmgtfy.app/?q=necroposting
  20. thanks - i'm sure you were very clear and I just have some studying to do in order to understand more of the details, so thanks for the extra details. I've ordered mag springs from both Tubbs and Sprinco just to compare them in actual use. I'll be replacing all of my oldest (approx 10 year) magpul springs. If there's any notable differences in use i'll report back here.
  21. This is great information and specific answer of a 5% difference over time is great. I have some reading to do to understand this better. thanks!
  22. i need some AR magazine springs. For action springs I have had good luck with CS springs from sprinco and flatwire springs from Tubbs. So I checked both of their sites for springs and found both make a 17-7 flatwire magazine spring. I actually like the fact that Tubbs says it *can* hold more rounds in a magazine. I'm thinking that would make it easier to load a full 30 round mag on a closed bolt - something that might be very useful in competition. Sprinco does cryogenic treatment on their flatwire magazine spring and tubbs doesn't. I can't find any definitive informa
  23. i should have mentioned SanTan as an option - they are right down the street from me and I forgot to add them to my post. Also keep in mind that balance is often much more important than overall weight. A heavier stock will counterbalance the barrel weight and the rifle will be perceived to be lighter. I did some balancing with a rifle my daughter was shooting - she said it was too heavy so I replaced the lightweight stock with a heavy stock (added about 2 lbs to the overall weight) and she was much happier with the "lighter" rifle when, in fact, it was 2 lbs heavier. In fact,
  24. I noticed that Rosco has a light 3gun barrel on sale for $120: https://www.roscomanufacturing.com/shop/kennel-bargain-bin/kennel-bin-barrels/16-in-3-gun-5-56/ I've never seen a barrel profile like that before, but at 21oz it fits your criteria of "light". And, that profile looks like most of the weight is towards the chamber so it might be perceived lighter. Since it's carbine gas you'd have to work to get the low recoil, but if you get a JP SCS or a VLTOR A5 you could probably get light and low recoil. At $120 and with Rosco's reputation I picked one of thos
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