JLarsson

If the chute is sticking, make sure you replace the hinge pin with a piece of paperclip or safety pin or one of the other fine suggestions given here. It should move freely, with or without a weight.

550 doesn't have a place where new primers collect like the 650 does.

You need to remove the Lee powder-thru die and replace it with the Dillon powder die and powder funnel.

TROLL? Dunno. I PM'd him, though.

Lee work fine. If you have another tool that requires a particular brand of shellholder, such as Hornady's cam-lock case trimmer, then get the kind that work with that tool.

If I worried about break even points I'd have other hobbies. Guns and motorcycles are not for saving money. Nor boats....

Holy. Cow.

I realize the OP was asking about trimming 9mm. And barring cases that are too long to chamber properly, no, there isn't a need to trim them. I was trying to point out that there are SOME circumstances in which trimming of SOME handgun cases is desirable or even necessary. One I forgot to mention was when using a roll crimp with cast bullets. Cases that are too long to be crimped properly into the crimp groove will shave and/or deform the forward driving band. Not MY idea of a good thing. But that's just my opinion. You're certainly welcome to think otherwise if you wish.

Well.....I guess I'll be the voice of dissent. For taper-crimped cartridges, minor variations in case length isn't too big a deal. These cartridges DO headspace on the case mouth, so if the cases were too long for some reason, that might create an issue for chambering. On the other hand, if they are too short, it could create an issue with ignition. ROLL-CRIMPED cartridges, on the other hand, should be pretty darn close to each other for consistency of crimp, and especially so if seating and crimping in the same operation. These cartridges, .357 Mag, .44 Mag, etc. typically headspace via the rim, so chambering and ignition aren't usually a problem (though a too-long case COULD present issues of chambering). It isn't necessary that all the cases match some arbitrary measurement as much as they match each other. If new, out-of-the-box cases vary too much in length, trimming for uniformity may be necessary. One additional benefit is with a roll-crimp, more uniformity results in better long-range accuracy, if the gun and shooter are capable.

Ha! That's a good idea, too. I'm just thinking if it needs a rebuild, will it be in good enough shape to load that much ammo. For me, sure, but probably not for some.

Thanks for clarifying. I could see that being a long time without your reloading press. It makes a pretty good case for having more than one on hand so you can "get by" while waiting for the refurbished one's return.

5-6.....weeks?

For your needs, the Pact electronic scale and powder dispenser combo would do well. I have one of the original (slower) models, but they are supposed to have speeded things up a bit since then. Mine works for exactly the purpose you mention - 100 rifle rounds once or twice a month, and it would do well for more than that. They are separate units, and the electronic scale works well in standalone mode also.

I'm confused. You mean you run all your cases through once just to size and deprime, and then you run them all through again to prime, charge, seat, and crimp? It's a 550 (4 stations) not a 1050. Run through to size/deprime/trim Tumble (they were lubed for sizing) Swage on Super 600 Run through to prime/charge/seat/crimp. Guys with 650's do more or less the same. Thanks for clarifying. It wasn't originally clear to me that you were talking about two separate tool heads. I think I've got it now.

I'm confused. You mean you run all your cases through once just to size and deprime, and then you run them all through again to prime, charge, seat, and crimp?

Got a source for this? Nothing like that on their website that I can find. Called and asked them. Plus there are many posts here supporting it. Why use a lube that is known to cause stuck cases when a lanolin based lube does not? jj The reason I ask is that I've used One Shot for years and I don't know how many rifle cases and never had that problem. Thanks.

Is Dillon the only source for those springs or has someone found another?

Got a source for this? Nothing like that on their website that I can find.

I have seen them on the 1050's. I tried making my own for the SDB. Even a relatively thin guitar pick (.51 mm) was too thick. Right now, I've got 4 layers of aluminum foil with a couple folds on the end away from the tab to hold them together. It looks okay, but I haven't tried loading any rounds with it like that yet.

Glad you haven't had the problem yet, but it is much more than possible - happens quite a bit. Have to keep an eye out for it. I check my primers when I reload my mags - make sure the primer is there, not too tall, and definitely not already dimpled (fired). Maybe I'm lucky. I haven't kept records and don't load and shoot quite as much as some do. But a pretty good number of rounds have come out of my SDB. The primer problems that I've encountered have been failures to feed new primers when switching to another caliber. There was a time when I was making do with one primer slide for 3 calibers, and needed to adjust everything when switching. Also, the case needs to be pretty accurately in place at the priming station. At some stage, I decided that it is better to leave the tab off the pin that holds the case in the shell plate. My pins didn't come with tabs. Is this something you made yourself? Got pix?

Pictures, please. How do you mount one ON the press?

I don't have a case feeder or the RT1200, but I REALLY like my 550b's. I recently purchased the shell plate bearing and extended primer slide, but haven't had a chance to load anything on it yet. Should be good.

Now that you're set up, what do you think processing output speed would be?

I do hope you mean 1000, not 100.

I guess I see where that could be handy. You'll still need a light, though. dapribek - how do you plan to attach this to your SDB? No lock nut to put it under, right?