TonyT

I called BME usimng the number on their website when I required a custom mount for my S&W 945 with a Docter sight. They made a special unit toorder and shipped within ca 6 weeks as I remember (it has been a few years).

I don't understand the problem. You simply remove teh toolhead with the powder measure and dump the powder out - what could be simpler?

I learned very quickly when I purchased my first progressive press that one has to clear all the stations and start from scratch when clearing an obstruction/jam.

Personally I prefer the Dillon 550 - I want to see the case full of powder before seating the bullet. I examine each case before sizing and discard any stray brass (AMERC or 380's mixed with 9mm), the powder drop before bullet seating and case gauge each finished cartridge. I still turn out ca 250 rounds per hour.

Check CDNN's website. Several months ago they had some PO mags on sale.

Both my S&W659 and 5906 have been totally reliable. The trigger on the 5906 feels signkificantly better in the Da mode than the one on the 659. The 659 also had a miserable method of attaching the right ambi release lever - a Phillips head screw which would frequently loosen - that was cured on the 5906.

Avoid AMERC brass like the plahue. S&B brass sometimes exhibits a bit of dificulty in repriming but otherwise is excellent brass. Recently I have seen the federal 9mm NT brass with crimpoed primer pockets and toss it into the scrap heap. Nothjing wrong with either military or NT crimped cases just not wotrth the effort to remove the crimp when other brass is plentifull.

Welcome to the forum. I shoot a Sihg 229 Sport in 40 S&W. For light loads I have used 155 to 180 gr. plated or jacketed bullest with WST or American Select. GFor full power loads , jacketed bullest with WSF. I usually use Winchester primers in my semi auto and Federal in my lightly sprung revolvers. I have also used both Remington and CCI primers in my semi autos.

The diameter of large pistol and large rifle primers is identical. However the large rifle primer is taller than the large pistol primer and will not interchange.

I uise a Dillon 550. For loading lead bullets I prefer the Dillon dies since one can remove the isnsert from the seating die for cleaning and then quickly put it back together without disturbing the seating depth. For jacketed bullets I have used Dillon, Lyman, Lee, RCBS and Hornady dies. This is all for straight walled pistol calibers.

What was the serial range of your gun? Mine is TS 5655. Tony

I have been using a 147 gr. FMJ with 3.5 gr. Bullseye for ca 910 fps. A nice accurate load in my 9mm's.

I don't have enough posts to put up the link to their site, but if you google Tripp Research, then you will find it...or just put in .com after trippresearch and you will be good to go. Simply call them and usually you will end up talking to Virgil, Shari (his wife) or Aaron. They are located in Texas...used to be in Alpine, but they have been in the process of moving to Bastrop, TX. I was lucky to get mine down there while Virgil still had everything he needed at their old facility, hence why it only was there for about 5 days and then back to me. Wait might be a little longer now that they are trying to get everything in one location, but you should call them to find out. Hope that helps. JD, Thanks, I'll contact him and get this issue resolved. Tony

I have been jusing Metalform and MecGar magazines which have functioned perfectly in my Dan Wesson. Where is V. Tripp located and how does one contact him? My best bet is to send it there to get it fixed once and for all. Thanks to all for your helpfull replies.

I don't mean to hijack your thread but after I installed the EGW extra high mag catch on my STI Trojan the slide would not close and I could not seat some mags with the action closed. Anyuone have any suggestions?

Well, I finally received the extra high mag catch from EGW and installed it - now the slide will not close where there kis a magazine in the well. Also I cannot seat some mags with the action closed. I believe a semi-high mag catch might work.

Several years ago I picked up an older S&W 586 (the blued version of the 686). Great guns which can usually be obtained for very reasonable prices.

I have both the S&W 327PC JM version with alloy frame and titanium cylinder and the all stainless S&W 627. Both shoot well and can be used with or without mooncliops. With the mild loads being used in SC and USPSA you will find that the 327 will come back on target faster than the 627 (at least that has been my experience).

I use the EGO grip on myh 1911's. It's a checkered polymer of some sort - perhaps rubber.

Wlash, I had catarcats removed and have been near sightted for many years. I could not obtain a clear picture of the front sight without awkwardly tilting my head backwards. My solution was to purchase shooting glasses with rwemoveable lenses such as thiose used by shotgun shooters. I had the right lens (im a right handed shooter) optimized for seeing the front sight and the normal left lens. Now I see both the front sight and traget with absolute clarity - somehow the brain puts it together.

I normally use Dillon case gauges in 9mm, 38 Super, 40 S&W and 45 ACP. The only exception is 9mm designed for use in my Dan Wesson PM-9 with a very tight chamber - I use the DW's barrel as a case gauge.

I would opt for a Barsto or other manufacturers barrel in 40 S&W and not worry about bulged cases or using lead bullets.

In my S&W 686 and 627 revolvers chambered for 38 Super the 130 gr. Rainier 0.356" provides ca 2" groups at 50 ft. At that same distance the 147 gr. Berry's 9mm 0.356" a provides less than 1 inch groups and both the Rainier 151 gr. o.356" and Montana Golf 124 gr. JHP 0.355" provide solid 1 inch groups.

I do not use a the undersize U die. Instead I gauge my reloaded rounds.

I have used both Bullseye and WSF with 147 gr. plated and jacketed bullets at ca 900 fps.