JatCarver

What’s people’s experience with the TNT Gold Match die without lube?

I forget mine is even there, not distracting at all.

Yes of coarse, and yes I agree, mandatory equipment.

I actually check all of the boxes. I bought a mk7 and 1050 (had a 550) within a few months of starting competitive shooting sports. Once I seen the rate I was burning through my ammo it took all of the fun out of loading on a 550. Mostly because I have a neck and back injury with pins in my spine and pulling a press handle really aggravates it. I like to load all my yearly ammo in a small time frame, makes me really appreciate the mk7. I case gauge while the machine runs so it saves a ton of time and makes case gauging less of a chore since it spreads it out a bit. Now someone needs to automate the case gauging process.

I have the 1050 version not 750 but it doesn’t have a gearbox, it’s direct drive from the motor. Is the 650/750 version not the same?

No cure, if the sensor is interrupted by a bullet when the downstroke begins then the press will carry on. I’ve never seen the bullet stay in place for the index but fall off on the down stroke, maybe a touch more bell/flare required?

I misread the title/first post, I thought we were talking about the case feeder tube for some reason. I’ve never felt the need to clean the powder measure hopper and I would probably just replace it with a glass one if I felt it was needed.

I downsized from my whole basement to a small room so I got the system and I like it. I have a plate for a 550, rock chucker and a Lee single stage. I also picked up a universal plate I plan to put a vise on.

Rubbing alcohol works really good.

Yes have to watch this. I actually started backing it off about 1/4 turn about 20,000 rds ago and haven’t had any primer issues at all.

As I stated earlier in the tread this isn't always a practical solution. As stated with some HP bullets the media gets stuck on the tips and then falls out inside the mags. Also I'm loading ~40k rounds over the next couple weeks, so something like throwing them in the tumbler for 10min turns into a big task with the high volume. Especially since my reloading room is in the basement and the tumbler is in the garage.

OK so I tried the Silicone spray and it works great, it takes a very small amount to stop the sticking on the crimp die and powder funnel and didn't leave any sticky residue on the loaded ammo.

Maybe I’ll try that, I have a can in the reloading room. Have you used this before?

is One Shot not sticky? I’ve never used it before.

I have done this in the past but the issue is with HPs the media gets stuck in the open tips and then can fall out in the mags under recoil. Not ideal.

I don’t use lube. Hate how the finished ammo is sticky when using lube so would like to avoid that.

I decided this season I’m going to load my match ammo with new brass so I picked up some starline 9mm brass. Right away I noticed the crimp die was sticking very hard. I looked into this and from what I read it’s common with new brass and especially starline. I’m belling very little and I only have the crimp die set to remove the flare, not actually crimping any. Its a Dillon die if that matters. Just thought I would ask if anyone has seen this and has a solution. I’m ok to just leave it as is since I’m only loading 2k and already have 500 of them done. Just thought I would ask.

Also, is there a good video that compares the 1050 and 1100 stating the upgrades? Also do you feel its a worth while upgrade?

Old tread revival here but seemed like a good place to ask. I have a 1050 on a mk7, If I buy a 1100 can I just swap everything over? I'm not sure what is different? Will my swage sense, bullet sense and everything bolt up? Thanks in advance!

I forgot about my Pal filler. Yes they work great.

That's the one thing I can say good about mine is I haven't had one upside down primer in ~9k rounds. I've been doing the silicon thing as shown by DAA with a cardboard box 1k at a time(just use a little, I over did it once and it made the problem worse). Also I clean the chute every 2k with rubbing alcohol and its been running ok. I tried cleaning the chute with silicon and it made it worse, perhaps I used too much. I haven't seen any issues with the silicon and ignition and don't expect to as its such a small amount that actually gets applied to the primers. Overall I would rate this product 3 out of 5 stars. Took lots of fiddling to get working ok(ish). The little arm that pushes the primers over on the tube sometimes deforms the primers and it wont allow the primer to drop down the tube. If almost never actually puts all the 99 primers in the tube on its own. It often leaves one or two on the bottom of the chute, not really a big deal thou.Plus have to mess around with the silicon and cleaning the machine periodically. Compared to my RF100 that took very little tuning/fiddling to get working 100% and takes practically zero effort to keep it that way it's more of a PITA for sure. The problem I've had with the RF100 has been as mentioned easier in the thread electronic breakage, however its a easy fix just kinda expensive especially to non-USA folks. Not sure if I would buy it again or just get another RF100.

I switched from 320 to “Sport Pistol” powder. I’m in Canada also, I get it from Budget Shooter Supply.

Picked up one of these and have been using the method of adding silicon to the primers via cardboard box as per DAA's video. It seemed to solve most of the issues. It's still slow however at 2min per tube, wont keep up to the press at 1800rph. What is this shim mod? I've searched most of this thread but I admit not all of it. Will it possibly cause upside down primers? That is the one positive I can say about this thing is I haven't had any upside down primer although I only ran 4k or so. Won't be selling my RF100 anytime soon, mine actually works really well and I only get about 1 in 1000 upside down with it. The problem I have had with the RF100 is the electronics failing often. Had to replace them twice in the last 30k rounds at a cost of around $90-100 cdn with shipping since Dillon likes to charge $40-50 to ship a small package to Canada when their cost is around $12. I'm hoping that between the two machines I will always have one that works... Edit: Just installed the V1 disc as I only use CCI primers. Night and day difference, filled the tube in 30seconds!

I avoid a plate whenever possible but the issue your having isn’t equipment related in my opinion.

Can you expand on that?