johnbu

The hammer is down and the recoil spring AND the hammer spring BOTH resist the rearward slide motion. Compare the force needed to rack the slide with a 10# hammer spring and a 22# spring. The hammer spring can be used to "fine tune" the flatness, especially a SA gun where the trigger is relatively insensitive to hammer spring rate.

The old STOCK has the sights like a Match, the cone barrel of the Stock2, but the round trigger guard frame of the Match. Yeah... sort of a mutt.

I sacrifice a cleaning mop (the fuzzy one you soak with H#9). i get it full of "blue magic" polishing compound and spin it with a drill. A drill to limit any heat issues. it should fit tight to the hole. couple things. If you have 1#3oz trigger pull ... you have a very very light hammer spring. Just the trigger return spring will give that weight. Get a new set of springs ! Also, my experience is the heavier PD firing pin sets off primers much more reliably than the very light Henning design.

Reliable should be #1 priority, but chasing the best feeling DF trigger is more fun! Do give the trigger a GENEROUS amount of pre-travel and over travel. Limiting that to get a tiny travel, can really mess up timing of the gun and that causes funky stuff to happen. Usually on a stage you were just crushing. I removed the over travel screws on all mt stock 2's. Remember too that on a SA only gun, the hammer spring going up a pound only increases the trigger an ounce or two. Polishing the actual hammer spring and spring pocket and using a light grease on the spring will reduce pull by several ounces. AND those parts will move free-er and hit harder. The PD firing pin spring also robs less strike force. i also polish the firing pin channel (with the extractor out!). That also increases strike force to the primer. Adding the PD firing pin also helps as it is heavier and longer. Those things all increease reliability. If you use the PD optimized trigger and sear springs that will drop 4-5 oz off the pull, but no reduction in primer strike force. The new UNICA solid hammer is spendy, but maximizes the swing arc. That will give more strike force. AND it has teeny tiny hammer hooks and a repositioned 1/2 cock notch so the sear won't ever hang on it. BUT!!!, That extra swing arc will solid coil bind some springs. Wolff makes short and stout springs 16-22# range. My motto is that springs are cheap,buy them all and experiment. Use that 6-10 round rip. Compare splits, muzzle rise and HF. Keep in mind the recoil is affected by both recoil spring and hammer spring. So you have to fine tune one, then the other then the first again.

The extreme medium is the same. Have you verified the rounds aren't too long? Plunk test them in the bare barrel, press down hard with a finger, it should spin and drop out freely.

If you don't measure the depth... it's just a guess if it's correct or not. use the tail end of the caliper to measure depth. Hammer spring i would not go lower than the PD 15.5. And wouldn't go heavier than the EG Medium. Because you've had some issues, the EG medium. Recoil spring depends on factors with the ammo and your grip. Henning sells a 10 3/4# for 40 major. but i don't know what his loads are like. heavier bullets like 200 or 220gr can make major with less powder / lower recoil than a 165 or 180 grain. I'd recommend filming from the side, 6-10 rounds fired as fast as you can and hit a target at 7 yds. if the gun raises, you need more spring. if it dips, a lighter spring. Do it with a timer start and compare total time, splits and HF.

Probably will need the extended firing pin block to work with the 1 piece sear also.

1) primer depth - 0.006-0.008 deep 2) plunk test 3) give it more over travel. The hammer could be hitting the 1/2 cock notches. 4) put in new hammer spring. It could be weakening. Use a patriot defense firing pin return spring.

Small frame is too small for 38, 10, 45. That's why large frame was invented.

Separate companies. They import different models. Zero overlap. Eaa isn't going away

Not affiliated is my understanding

Wow! that is a total rookie move. that keeper pin is one i don't have as a spare. The barrel fitting isn't difficult, but getting it so it just "snicks" into place with near perfection is time consuming. However, the slight reduction in accuracy from a slightly loose fit is better than eating the lugs.

No.

I looked at grainger... this one may be acceptable. https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/SPEC-Metric-Compression-Spring-41ML09?breadcrumbCatId=16631

This is a "trick " i shared with Apolo. Measure a finished round to find the largest diameter. Then push it thru a Lee "bulge buster" on a single stage press with the empty lee makarov crimp die and remeasure. (this is the correct way for the tapered 9mm brass) You will find it is now 0.002 to 0.004" smaller. The smaller area will be around the base. It WILL NOT cause any feed, fire or extract problems. It will actually improve all those areas. You can run the bare brass or finished ammo. If you envision the stacked ammo in the mag, there are about 12 in a double stack (2wide by 12 tall) and the rest are funneling to the top. reducing the size will make the "reloadable" easier and in some cases will allow one more in. My TF 140mm extensions are 23+1 reloadable. Initially they were 22+1 and barely reloadable. The springs calmed down and i could get 23 NOT reloadable. Bulge busting, made them all 23+1 and easily reloadable. It's a cheap, but labor intensive operation.

The difference from 38s (no spacer) to 9mm (with spacer) is about 3/4 oz.

Sadly, no. maybe Grainger ?

Are you running with the rear sight high? (using a tall front sight) The sight keeps better against the detents with more pressure from the springs. if you can get a longer spring, or a shorter front sight post (0.150"). The epoxy may also work. It can be removed with heat from a soldering iron should the need arise. "Stroking" the slide like an open gun to 2.0 - 2.2" stroke will reduce the rear hammering.

No need to replace the rear sight. (In all probability). unscrew and remove the elevation screw. Avoid losing the 2 springs! you will find the set screws that Hold the sight to the gun are loose. Take them out, degrease and clean. Use RED locktite 271 to hold them in place. Take out the extractor and inspect. if chipped replace. You may need to adjust tension by removing metal on the square pad. Use the Wolff xtra power spring. DO NOT TRIM. it will be a itch to replace, but they work better. Add a small oring under the grip screw and use a lot of 241 (wood/plastic/g10) grips or 271 on metal grips. use a soldering iron to remove the screws in the future .

The OD of the 9, 40, 10mm, 45acp are the same. so bigger hole means less weight.

They are. the only difference is the stamped name on the side

I spoke to Joe at PD. He said the same thing. All dots are failing. Anecdotal evidence has DPP lasting the longest, but they still fail.

I have both. Difference is lack of the "k9" or "k40" roll stamp.

Been a month, ive heard ZERO from sig. I guess "lifetime " warranty is time to respond, not time how long it lasts?

I've not heard that, nor experienced it. my MATCH has 10-12,000 rounds with no issue. My 40cal stock 2 has about the same. There WAS some 10mm (and lesser degree 40) slide cracking back in the 1990's. That was corrected by design change 20 years ago. (as i understand it).