hceuterpe

USPS is the worst on tracking. Had same issue and they showed up 5 days after the expected date... Call PD they are the best if you dont get them. Oh, I know--USPS is the worst. That's why I don't use them at all, if possible! When you say 5 days, do you mean 5 USPS "business days" or 5 calendar days? Maybe I should be nice and give USPS till Monday Otherwise?

Anyone ever deal with a lost shipment order from Precision Delta? They shipped my order in 2 flat rate USPS priority boxes. Postal tracking system's info shows both (two different numbers) departing some place in MS, about 50 miles from them on the morning of the 3rd of December and then nothing. USPS shows an estimated delivery of the 5th so it's definitely past that. Thinking it's time to start making some calls...

Is Montana Gold still shipping their 4000-count (or so close) orders in one big bag and box? It's mighty tough to lift almost 70 lbs otherwise for those with limited upper body strength!

They replied back to me a while back (early 214) and said it was ok. I doubt anyone one would call you out on it. That would make a double standard, since I heard it's a readily accepted mod for Glocks.

I highly doubt that's SSP legal: Action / Trigger job (internal so should be OK) Excluded: Externally visible modifications other than those listed in the Permitted Modifications section. Pretty sure they put in that aftermarket short reach trigger New rear sight (should be OK) Drill out conversion of front sight for fiber optic insert (should be OK) Sights may be changed to another notch and post type but slides may not be machined to accept different style sights in SSP Oversize factory mag release (factory part - OK?) Guide rod (internal so should be OK) Maybe. Grips (no issue) Beretta Elite II Hammer (factory part - OK?) Conversion of hammer drop safety to "G" De-Cocker (factory parts - not sure at all if this is OK). Excluded: Aftermarket or visibly modified magazine releases, slide stops, safety levers, de-cocking levers, and hammers.

Tritium has a half-life of a little over 12 years. The sites should be marked with a year of manufacture. What is that? If you damaged them so they leaked, I would say it likely wouldn't illuminate at all, since the gas is much lighter than air. So if they illuminate at all, its likely just aging

Anyone on here ever watch the movie Tremors? There is a married couple in the film, Burt and Heather...that you would call survivalists. They have a bunch of Dillon equipment (including I think 650 and a tumbler), and it's pretty obvious in the scene in their basement "bunker".

Would that be pretty much similar results with .308? Does case neck diameter have a lot to do with it (like smaller, e.g. .223)?

Funny, I came to the realization almost at the same time as you did (late Sept)! Even with Mike's mods, it didn't work that well. I too had the issue with the crunching primers. Wasted a lot of money trying to get this LLM PoS to work properly. IMO, the major issue with the LLM is that it primes on the upstroke. That and the casefeeder is a joke, the turret had terrible issues with OAL consistency, Lee's poor QC control with parts. A progressive press must just be a pipe dream for under $300.

This is what CCI referred me to: http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/primers/primer_chart.htm Small Rifle 400 For most standard loads in cases requiring small rifle primers. 450 Mag† Magnum primer for ball propellants. No.41/5.56MM Military small rifle primer with NATO sensitivity. BR4 Benchrest small rifle primer for critical accuracy needs. As for the No41: http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/primers/primers.aspx?id=30 Mil-spec sensitivity Initiator mix optimized for ball/spherical propellants Available in large (No.34) and small (No. 41) rifle Use the same data as CCI Magnum primers So I just snagged some 450 since I use H335.

I asked my local gunsmith at my range to take a quick look at it if everything looked peachy. In the process I asked about switching the safety because the manual was so "liability heavy" on swapping the safety. It took him longer to find the tools I think than to swap it He said exactly what MarkCo said.

I'm going with the Versa Max, my mind is made up, no way to the 1301. Here's why: I wanted to give Beretta a chance with my 92A1. It has a buggered up front sight, it eventually flew off in the grass at my ourdoor range. So I figure some guns might not be 100%. Heck the sight didn't get loose for at least 3 months, and it's very hard to tell by the eye. What's the kicker is that the Italian slide needs to be replaced. While I do realize it's not a legal thing, the A1s have matching barrels, slides and frames for serial numbers. I bought it with matching numbers, they sell them with matching numbers. Now it won't match since they say Italian law says they can't legally change the number. Nor can they just send a slide with no number. So immediately the resale value of that gun is potentially lowered because they don't match. They should have done me right and just sent me a pistol, swapping out the existing BUSA purchased factory custom parts, and using my old frame as a backup frame if they must for parts. But here's what really bugs me perhaps even more, I sent it out on 6/15. Now it's August 15. Back in July they said ETA mid August. So I call them up today and I'm like and wondering where it is because the it's now mid-August Their response: Now it's overdue and they have NO idea when they will get the slide. I don't want the runaround. I'm beginning to see why Beretta is not the favorite in CS and have now experienced it for first hand. Plus I've called them twice, and they haven't actually even apologized for the delay! It might seem miniscule, but their attitude almost seemed to be "well what do you want us to do about it, we'll get around to it, when we get around to it?" You're the freaking manufacturer, I WANT you (above anyone else) to treat me right. I hope Beretta actually reads this and gets their $#!+ together, because they just lost a customer to buying their bread & butter product line, a shotgun. TBH, I'm not sure I want to buy another Beretta product now. Had they treated me right, I probably would have gone towards to the 1301. This isn't like my first Beretta either. I own a CX4, a Nano and a PX4 SC as well. In fact the only gun I own that's not a Beretta is a RRA AR-15. So now, that's about to change and no, snow balls chance in hell now for the 1301 (or front of some birdshot:))

Was that the tactical, or the souped up competition version?

No one from the VM camp? Getting a lot of Beretta love thus far

Learn the rear sight picture on the 92. Don't compensate with an adjustable sight. Adjustable sight can lose zero . Fixed won't.

Really? I own a SC so must be at least close and the 92a1 trigger(though it has some Frankenstein factory parts from other variants stil legal in all IDPA divisions assume one could that gun mdel/caliber). It could run around in circle yell taunts at it , throw mud at in his face, and SC wouldnt realize he got ridiculed.

Not so fast guys. Not all triggers on 92 are all metal. I swapped mine out with the old school steel trigger. The new factory ones at least in the are a poly steel combo .. this is all from memory but the the stock was like 89 grain and the steel is like 200 something. I posted this over in the Beretta forum. Wolf return trigger spring won't fit in the combo poly because while it is like less half the weight, it has a covered middle section so the WRTS fit. The steel has a big opening...

I own a 92A1. I did all number of mods to the gun's frame. The slide in it's entirety however, is still stock. It's a three dot. Imo, they bought the adjustable slight because they were lazy and (hopefully he not your best friend...) Possibly ignorant to learn how the sight picture works. Being a military/combat style pistols POA is different than what must be a lot of other pistols. My PX4 SC is the same way,so perhaps it's also Beretta's thing . Even the Nano seems like that. And they love 3dot. I'm glad you're doing the right thing by getting rid of that silly adjustable sight . I'd say get used to the sight picture. An adjustable sight can lose zero...

Sorry for the double post. Some more thoughts due to my smaller frame: The length of pull on my AR-15 is right around 13.25-13.5", a little closer to 13.25"; feels great overall. The next notch is 14" and personally that seems too long, and overall doesn't feel right... I also did the ruler measure trick and that matches. The manuaI could find on the VersaMax states: "The LOP may be adjusted from 14 1/4 to 15 1/4 inches. Guns and Ammo states about the 1301: "The synthetic stock is short, but has an adjustable length of pull (13 to 14 1/2 inches). They make the 1/2 inch spacer which would be about perfect. So, won't the 1301 be more ergonomic for me? Or do rifle LOP and not correlate? I figure if anything, the LOP on a rifle would be longer due to pistol grip, albeit slightly?

At, my LGS/range, the smith demonstrated the recoil force needed to operate a Benelli inertia driven shotgun by dropping it on the ground against a rubber mat from a height. Seems like I really want to go with a gas instead after watching that? It wasn't a Benelli M2, It had a walnut finish and was engraved, I think maybe an ETHOS or a Legacy after browsing their website. Also... my local shops don't have either from what I can tell. Though it might be worthwhile to give one other shop another call. Though, just about every shop from what I recall has either HD/LEO with short, short barrels or hunting shotguns, and mostly pump, or even break action, and of course handguns and rifles. The closest is probably Bass Pro Shops, about 40 miles away. I live in in the middle of Illinois, if that helps any. I know I'm about to embarrass when I say this DocMedic, but I've never actually shot a shotgun before, ever. Heck, I've had my go at a .500 S&W (man that thing kicks like a...b...I mean a mule), and of course I own an AR, but never had a go at a shotgun. Would it even matter between the two guns' if this is the case? Is it more the controls, or the physical ergonomics that differ? They seem way more similar than say an AK-47 vs. an AR-15. or SA/DA vs. striker.. EDIT: Ok, FINALLY found a video demonstrating the 1301, (can you believe they don't publish the manual online yet? ) After watching some more videos, the Beretta 1301 lacks a cartridge release, and the safety is behind the trigger guard, not in front of it??

I'm interested in purchasing a shotgun for 3-gun, and so far I've narrowed it down to these two. This is actually also my first shotgun purchase as that's the missing piece I need. What are the thoughts between the VMT and the 1301C? My LGS recommended the VMT, though admittedly I am biased towards Beretta since I already own 4 other firearms from them, and they all work great thus far. Before it gets out of control with the replies ( ) , criteria: 1) My budget is right around $1000. So an M2 is out of the question with what appears you need to do to it 2) I am female, 5'8". Though for reference, I don't find the 92 I own to be too large by any means, so I am taller than average. But is also another reason the M2 is a big no due to the inertia action for recoil. 3) I am left eye dominant, and shoot left handed. But write, eat, mouse with my computer with my right hand. In fact when I started shooting, I started right handed, until I switched to avoid cross dominance. However, at the very least, the safety especially if cross bolt, will need to be reversed... I don't mind getting the clamp and magazine tube from Nordic for the 1301, and it seems the enlarged loading port is a definite plus. The VMT of course already has the tube which means I don't have to buy, but only the more expensive VMC has the enlarged loading port. Also the VMT vaguely claims the safety can be reversed if it's sent into an authorized Remington repair center, which in my view seems to mean this is not easy, nor meant to be done by the owner? So feature wise for what might have to be done with it, it's mostly a draw, and maybe a small lead to the 1301.

I actually emailed CCI about this: Me: "For reloading .223 rounds intended for use in an AR-15, is it preferable to use CCI small rifle (400) or CCI magnum (450) primers?" Them: "it will depend on the powder used. You will want to use the right primer for the right powder. " Me: "Plan is for using H335 powder, or other ball that would meter consistently for progressive loading?" Them: "you will want to follow the load data for the bullet used. When using Speer Bullets in the 55Gr weight, the H335 does require a magnum primer and you could use the #41." Other than omitting my name in the original emails, the entire series above is verbatim when it was exchanged in late April 2014.

I throw 100 at a time (I reload in batches of 100 for obvious reasons) in the sandwich size ziploc bags, and shake the bag with a combination of Lee size lube and 91% isopropyl in a 10:1 ratio. In order to give this plenty of time to dry off, I rotate through 3-4 bags--one bag at a time. I started off with Hornady One Shot, and based on this method, I didn't find the Hornady to be more effective, but the Lee stuff seems way cheaper. However I keep the can around to lube the resizing die every so often, since I don't want to spray the mixed Lee concoction as it still contains a small amount of water and I don't want it to rust the die. As a female shooter with limited upper body strength, it's a HUGE difference. I can't speak for any other pistol caliber since I only reload 9mm, but I can only imagine 9mm benefits way more than even say .40SW and .45ACP. Without the lube, I'd probably get tired out very fast before I loaded much.

Do you still have the chrono results you're willing to share? I'd be curious to see how the velocities changed.

I'll chrono these on Saturday as I had to stay indoors today. I assume pressure really spikes when natural case level of powder and space left over is greater than the amount of bullet seated in the case causing compression? You're right, there is definitely "open" volume between the base of the bullet and the top of the powder charge, my guess is at least way more than the change in cOal. As long as it's boosted no more than 40fps I'll be happy. Shouldn't be that high right?