hceuterpe

Ok, so my original theory is not incorrect, as I did some sleuthing. I'm pretty sure it's the length being too short. Now everyone--please, please, please don't dock me on safety in the following pics. I have dummy rounds, but I simply could not get them jam the same way, so I used a single live round. These are the same Federal TG hulls I use in all my birdshot so I wanted to rule out variables. Please be aware the gun was on safe, pointed safely etc when I attempted this. What lead me to the final end with the carrier was the 7 jams today. It wasn't because it was dirty, it's never failed to eject a round. Instead VM jammed 7 times in 2 stages out of 4 in a single match and every time it was just like the pics below. It became disasterous as I lost faith/confidence in my equipment, built up frustration, (plus never never run one with a new fairly pistol platform!). Anyway picture one of the overall jam. In the match the gun jammed in the heat of the moment, and while I tried to clear it as fast as possible I only did see it 7 times . So I'm still highly confident this is what happened based on memory: Notice how the shell is tilted slightly at a downward angle. Even better in the next two pics: Do you see how it's actually hanging up on the lip? The feed ramp so to speak is grooved/slanted but what's straight below is flat. It catching there--otherwise it would slap home. I can only surmise the extra length of the VM carrier would prevent this from ever happening. Remember while the Tactical/Tactical Comp shotguns are rated for 2 3/4" and 3", technically the receivers are the same as the stock which can take 3 1/2. The only way to make that happen is for the VM to have a larger loading gate vs. the Benelli, hence I suspect still the need for the longer carrier. Overall, if I recall my VM jammed with this carrier the exact same way in my last match. And when I was test cycling true dummy loads, I recall getting it to happen at least 4-5 times . Now don't get me wrong. I own 2 Glock TTI mag extensions, 3 PMAG extensions, a Glock TTI kit in a 34 that has a trigger down to 4 lbs as tested on a scale with 1300 CCI primers. They are all *awesome*. I've heard good things about the carrier...but it was built for Benelli's, and those folks have been using them in Benelli's. If you take out the trigger group housing, you'll notice how ridiculously similar they are (this is part of the rumors as to why "Remington copied Benelli, and in particular the M4 gas system"). However they aren't identical and the receivers definitely aren't. It appears this is where they differ.

I've been using the TTI carrier in my VM for about 2 months, and unfortunately it's going back. I had some serious problems today with the shells hanging up with the bolt and carrier with it. Posting some pictures comparing the factory carrier, vs. TTI. It fits, but it's definitely not 100% after my experience. TTI in general is shinier, and the stock VM one is duller... Overall length comparison. Notice shape in the "lip" of both carriers, on the right side of the image/carrier. TTI has a sharp, "ridge" on top while the stock VM one fairly long and flat. The side itself on the TTI one somewhat tapers in, while the stock VM one is straight: Another length comparison, with overhead view: Inside view of this "lip" Notice the TTI one has in fact a notch. The stock VM one does not: Close up of the TTI: Close up of the Stock VM:

I think it would be worth it to go with the auto indexing on the 650. One less thing to have to operate with each pull of the handle. If you add the casefeeder, basically both hands remain repetitively occupied with just about the simplest step over and over. The bullet feeder seems nice, but if you use that, then you have a free hand that is now basically doing nothing...

You just push the handle all the way forward, according to Dillon when I asked. When I took a closer look, there's a spring below the primer pin so short stroking it wouldn't have the desired effect either.. In the end for my issue it was the station 2 retainer. The spring loaded lever that acts in place of the locator pins at 3, 4 and 5. I had to adjust it further in, and for 9mm it had some "wiggle room" when I was trying to prime. To a certain extent, it actually caused the case to raise up a bit from the shellplate when I was trying to prime.

My 650 isn't my first press. I came from the best progressive press on the market, the Loadmaster. Constant tinkering, fiddling, and it still lead to problems that caused stalls. It was modified and still no good. The Dillon 650 might be pricey but bottom line is, it just works. That's what's in the koolaid. I wish I bought this as my first progressive press!

That's not a good sign cwall64, anyone else?

Being a woman with smaller hands than I guess what you could call the average man's sized hands (I'm still taller than average), the Gen4 is helpful with the backstraps. The Gen3 felt too large. I'm also left handed. You can't swap the mag release side on the Gen3, only Gen4. Keep in mind if you run a left hand swapped Gen4, Gen3 mags don't work right since apparently I've been told they only have the notch on the right side (i.e. wrong side ) of the magazine itself (I almost made this mistake and bought an older mag!)

I have a discussion with someone else the other day. Anyone know how old the design itself is of the Dillon 650? Curious how that compares to the LnL or the Pro 2000.

What has the verdict been on this product for those of you who have used it?

I wouldn't use blue if screw is small. This is the description of purple: Typically used with small screws up to 1/4".

Before you do anything, just take a picture of one of the headstamps and post it in a reply...

When comparing strong vs. weak hand reload for shotgun, do people tend to prefer strong hand simply because they are manipulating the shells with their dominant hand, or is there some sort of inherent advantage over weak hand still? I'm technically left handed, but fairly ambidextrous and tend to prefer actions that require fine motor skills with my right hand. Manipulating shells is one of them.

Here we go, Allegheny gun works offers the following gunsmithing service: Convert "FS" Safety to "G" Type Decock $185 Only So the question remains, will that bump the 92 out of stock with that mod? Edit: Sorry nick, I read your reply wrong, I thought you meant illegal law wise, not rule wise . Are you referring to this USPSA rule clause: "Removing or disabling firing pin blocks or any other factory safety mechanism in Production division is specifically prohibited"

Wow, the WC Brigadier custom is even IDPA stock approved. That option is looking better and better. Maybe I'll just keep the A1 around as the beat up (and backup) gun and just fork over for another with the WC. It's always feels nice to buy a new firearm

Two comments found so far: Forum response: "From reading the beretta forums, you have to do have the slide milled to convert a 92fs to a 92g. Hopefully OP will post what type of beretta he has." Description for WC conversion part--Wilson Combat Beretta® 92/96 Custom Carry Lever De-Cocker for G Conversion: "NOTE: Major Gunsmithing and Slide Modification Required" From what I gather. Is it possible to convert? Yes But is it also easy to do? Not in the least...

For the Beretta 92, (FS variants), I know it's possible to modify the pistol from safety/decocker to decocker only. However, it requires irreversible modifications to the slide (I think you have to remove material from the slide around the safety levers). Does anyone know whether or not that bumps you out of the USPSA production classification? Trying to consider options for a 92 decocker only: whether going with a WC custom brigadier, or modifying my existing 92A1. The WC model is already on the USPSA production list. Oh, and no "Just get a Glock/M&P" replies, please

I locked it down with the black set screw on the ram, along with the big center bolt in the middle of the shellplate. I sort by headstamp, using Winchester white box casings right now, so definitely no crimp...

Don't all the manufacturers recommend against this due to either the ambient air being too humid or dry, and affecting the moisture content in the powder?

I bought the press itself with it configured for 9mm. I also had to send the original plate back because it made half-moon impressions on the headstamps. So I know it's the right one. I tightened the plate back when I got it just to point where anymore would have caused it to bind. The case is not popping out, just being lifted up a bit as the primer goes in. It's part of why I'm trying ot figure out why the primer doesn't seem to seat deep enough...

When priming 9mm cases on the 650, is it normal for the case to "lift up" from the shellplate as the press lever is pushed forward?

So I have a set of Lee 9mm dies. The 650 manual states the sizing die to be screwed in with the ram up until it touches and then tighten the lock ring. The Lee instructions state to screw in the sizing die until it touches the ram with it up, and then 1/4 turn. Which of the two instructions should I follow?

Anyone using Hornady lock rings on their 650? If so, would you mind posting a picture with the lock rings being used in all the stations (or at least 4)? I bought a bunch back before when I was using my Lee LM, on a recommendation stating they worked. But when I got them to try, realized that realistically they are too close together and a no-go since they touched when tightened. It was a bit of a pain sending them back, and not something I want to repeat.. Thanks.

If you try to make your own using isopropyl alcohol, make sure you go with 99%, not 91%. I figured 91% was high enough until I over-lubed a batch of brass, and it did decent job of tarnishing/rusting the brass with the added time it took to dry. Not horrible, but it seemed reminiscent of brass you find that's been sitting in the dirt for a bit, just not nearly as bad. I guess the cheaper stuff did technically have 9 times the water content

Good thing I didn't make a big stink, beyond just posting this... Looks like USPS finally found my boxes. I get several shipments a week since I order so much in the mail. This is the only one that's been a delay. So I think it was a fluke in that it might have been lost for a bit. Hopefully it's still in one piece (for both)... Out for delivery today. My postal carrier is going to love me

I guess it's possible the Pro 1000 is somehow better. But rest assured the Loadmaster is GARBAGE. I put up with that thing for almost a year before I gave up and upgraded. You go from a LM to something like a Dillon or LnL and within a minute, you'll notice why it costs more, how much better it is, and that the extra cost is justified. I think the biggest fault of the LM (other than their poor QC and tolerance in manufacturing to keep costs down) is that the LM primes on the upstroke. Though as I understand, the Pro 1000 does as well. There's way too much stuff going on with a 5-station press to also prime as well at the same time. So of course (and especially with 9mm) you don't know the primer tipped and you are about to crush it...until you hear it being crushed. Additionally, one station is completely wasted because of this, so it's not truly a 5-station. Lee dies are fine. Lee single stage is great (especially for the price). I've also heard only good things about their turret presses. But for their progressive? Look elsewhere.