alma

I love the brown tape. Wish more clubs used it over the pasters.

Matched uppers and lowers are not important. The Wylde chamber is nice since you can still shoot most 5.56 but it's a tighter chamber for better accuracy.

I would really like to see a museum exhibit of the evolution of competition guns.

But no one would ever choose shotgun over rifle if given as choice unless you didn't need to go to the rifle at Ali on a particular stage on you had to gp out on your way to see the targets with the rifle. I agree we think Pat, let's use the right tool for the right job.

For shooting a 19 11th it is more important to have a functional slide release since your magazine capacity will limit your options for reloading. As stated above some limited and open shooters will disable to eliminate possible slide stop related malfunctions and then plan reloads to avoid empty chambers. It's not something that is as easy to do in Production, Single Stack, or IDPA where I consider slide lock reloads a necessary evil.

I think get one wherever you can find it now and send it in for work later or alternatively get into the long line. The fear is that fully adjustable sights will get knocked off sight. It isn't a problem that I have experienced and I really like the simplicity of easily adjusting that gun for different loads without having to change the height of my front sight. I honestly don't know why they aren't more popular.

I could see some cool training associated apps with Google Glass like being able to see time and splits without looking down. Round count would be interesting too. Right now it seems like it would be much more of a distraction than a help during an actual match. As far as how technology advances have been treated in USPSA, I am not sure that when someone steps on the range with something new that it is automatically daemonized as being cheating. I think usually shooters question just the usefulness of the new thingy until it proves itself. I have heard a lot of stories about shooters thinking that a dot would not benefit you until shooters started winning with them in a big way (was The Burner one of the first to compete at nationals with a dot?).

Both the Shadow Custom and Shadow Custom Target are great guns. Only real difference should be the adjustable rear on the Target. I prefer it but most who shoot at the higher levels of competition seem to like fixed or the HAJO. When I got my Target from CZC I paid a bit extra to have them to some additional trigger work done beyond what might be typical. I have been very happy with the results but I have also being going back through the gun to polish other parts that have further improved the trigger, especially the smoothness of the DA. I talked to Matt back in 2012 about his trigger work and tried his trigger and it was slightly better than mine. He seemed to indicate that AA puts a bit more time into the trigger jobs and I have heard that they are very good. One thing to consider is that depending on the year produced your Target may not have the Short Reset Trigger system in it or an extended firing pin. Both are highly recommended and are mods that you can do your self but AA, CZC, or CGW would likely do the Short Reset install and other trigger work better. There are a lot of good guides here and elsewhere about DIY trigger work depending on how comfortable you are with that sort of thing. I imagine additional trigger work would reduce a couple of pounds off of the DA and at least a pound off of the SA but someone who knows better could chime in.

Might work in a pinch but those wouldn't be as easy to attach and could be less comical. Maybe a liberal coating of grip tape on the left side of the stock. If your cheek starts bleeding then you know you mounted it wrong. I like to think of myself as a problem solver...

I think I heard that you could heat it up and essentially inflate something in the magwell to get some expansion. Better idea would be to put something on the grip itself rather than screw with opening up the frame. There are a few tutorials around here about using epoxy and some type of grit to improve 2011s or CZ grips. That is something that could be done on a Glock. Needless to say these wouldn't be Production legal mods.

Next time don't forget to smear peanut butter or something similar on the left side of your rifle and shotgun stocks before you shoot a stage like that. If you transition to your long guns and get a face full of deliciousness then you will remember that it shouldn't have happened and will transition to weak wide before the procedurals start flying. I am only half joking. If you thought it would be a problem again you could put some medical tape or something on your stock to remind you in the event that you mounted it the wrong way.

It was a fun stage. I stacked up several groups of two by two and tried grabbing for a quad load. My first quad went in great but my second quad only two went in smoothly so I just went with 6. Shot 3 steel by the time the first bird launched so I went for that and came back for the last steel and bird. I really wish I would have just ignored the bird and shot that last steel befor chasing it. I ended up #2 on the stage at around 42 seconds overall. As for gaming there was awhile when I was considering staging my guns and ammo on the previous tables so I could load on the way to the next box since the stage description didn't say which gun/ammo could be on which table. At the end I decided to shoot it as intended because it would have slowed down my exit from each area too much to clear one gun and retrieve the other and associated ammo.

might help to know what Glock and XDs you already own. Longer sight radius is nice if you have that option. You can be competitive with either platform so preference is a large component of your decision. It's easier to get parts for Glocks in general but that doesn't mean you can't set up an XD for competition.

Universally slower. I cringe every time I see someone use it.

Pick one and stick with it. It eliminates a lot of variables that can get in the way of your performance. Get that one reliable and familiar and then you can just focus on your shooting.

Whatever you do please just use your slide release rather than racking back the slide. For some reason a bunch of the Tactical Timmys have decided that you need to rack the slide instead of using the release but if introduces an additional motion that is much slower than using the slide stop and can introduce a malfunction if you follow the slide forward with your hand thereby reducing the effectiveness of the recoil spring in getting the gun back into battery. I user may strong hand thumb but weak hand thumb is also a good option if you can't reach with the other one. Slide lock reloads are just as fast for me as my standard reload. http://youtu.be/nC-HM2UqP4Q

I do like those little rubber base pads that eerw mentioned first. They came stock on my CZ Compact L and improve the grip for me significantly.

No way that weight is right. Like I said, with the big mag well, a little bit of frame removed (up to the SN) and the cast checkering gone I am at 43 oz with no mags.

Slide to frame fit doesn't have that much to do with accuracy in a Glock unless you are shooting a frame mounted optic. It can help to clean up the trigger but I don't think it will do wonders for our groups. Lock into the slide is more important but all of my factory Glocks have had some play when you push down on the hood. Find a friend with a G35 and try the part swap out to see if anything makes a difference.

Maybe these: http://shop.springerprecision.com/product.sc?productId=250&categoryId=42

They are too long for Production.

Thanks Stu. I guess that explains why I couldn't find it. I will try the loctite. I have a Dawson front that has a vertical set screw under the fiber so I will remove the fiber and try to lock it down there as well.

I was taking down my ACCU today I was surprised when my front sight fell out after removing the bushing. I didn't see any sign of my front sight pin but luckily I had a spare. The only problem is the that when the bushing is in I can't get the front sight pin in. I can put the pin in when the bushing is out and I may be able to just using the bushing wrench to crank down on the bushing until the pin takes shape but wouldn't want to use force unless I knew that was the thing to do. Anyone have experience here?

I am using the Safariland 3 Gun bag and my 28" A5 with a 12 round tube just fits.

Other than saving a bit of weight I don't think it's a big deal to have a longer barrel any more. Back when it was 8 round tubes only it was nice to have a shorter gun but now you really want a minimum of a 10 round tube. On one on my guns a 10 round tube is about flush with a 26" barrel. I justice got a new 3 gun shotgun a few months ago and a 28 inch was around $200 cheaper than any of the 26" model's that I could find so I picked up the 28". I am running a 12 round mag tube which is still a few inches past the end of the barrel and with just a fiber front and sighting down that long rib I have had no issues with having slugs find their target.