BOOM

I want one (Space gun is right) It looks like something P-Mag would make just to get in my wallet again lol.

I've learned to preset a trigger from a draw; do I like it (NO) (1)You can have a surprise ignition; it happens I know (2) Its one more thing to think about; Stay focus on other thing (3) If you like pre-travel great; Everyone shoots different.

Well duh!! Thanks JBP55; I SEE Very cool.

Thank You DK; Would you agree with me that the bump on the trigger bar that engages the safety plunger would need to be reshaped or set back more so that it does not fully engage the plunger safety as quickly ? Doing this first would allow you to reduce the pre-travel and still have all 3 safeties working . Provided you trimmed the trigger pad safety, and added a set screw to either the trigger pad, or trigger housing.

Thanks DK I'd like to ask you is the trigger bar your selling a modified OEM Glock part.?

Thanks Rooster; Those are exactly the things I'm trying to discuss here reshaping parts along with adding set screws. I'm almost sure that the bump or (what ever its called) on the trigger bar that depresses the safety plunger needs to be reshaped so that it doesn't engage the safety plunger as quickly also the trigger pad safety need to be trimmed. To me just adding Allen screws to the trigger housing will disable the safety plunger because the trigger bar bump will end up ridding on the safety plunger as your reduce the pre-travel. I have talk with Charile several times He is a great guy he explained to me that all his parts are modified OEM Glock parts and that just doing one modification like adding his trigger housing most likely will not remove much of the pre-travel with out disengaging one or more of the safeties, and that he does not have the time to do his super trigger any longer. If you go to Vanek home page he sells every part you need (except) the trigger bar (huh ?) DK does sell a trigger bar at $65.00 plus ship, but I'm sure it will need his other parts to reduce pre-travel and have it running right. Through the experience of others here WHO post what they've learned I buy my parts, springs, connectors,safety plungers from the different vendors here who support our sport.

Just to do my part for all the help I received here in this post I gave Taran Tacticle a call I heard they sells (Trigger Spring Kits) they sent me a reduced weight Hammer Spring, and a reduced weight Trigger spring. If a 7.5 trigger ain't your thing, and would like a 4 lb. one instead, this worked for me.( Lastly) I would like to say THANK YOU to everyone who helped me out with Parts they Manufacture, mods they've done themselves, and the things they've learned, and also answered many questions. to make this one cooooool shot gun

Pre-travel in Glocks has been a long going problem. I'm trying to help solve problem with this post. Other post here have sought to reduce trigger pull with 25 cent trigger jobs, and perceived felt recoil with spring changes Everyone enjoys that information now don't you ? If you feel guilty about not paying $100 plus dollars for 2 Allen screws and removing a little material I can understand.

Decided to buy a couple of 922r compliant parts a Disconnector, and Fowller These 2 parts have laser engrave made in USA right on them. The parts were made by Tom of MOA Precission there top quality and function great. For me its cheap insurance, and peace of mind.

Exactly: I'm looking for those here who have drilled, and taped there own, and wouldn't mind explaining where and what they done. Having the OEM parts, and buying few inexpensive Allen screws.with some time can be its own reward. Charlie Vanek ; sells his trigger housing with both pre-travel, and over-travel adjustment screws shipped is $42.00 DK triggers ; sells the trigger bar alone for $75.00 shipped . All of these parts I'm sure are worth the money. But aren't these modified Factory Parts.? Maybe someone here using these parts wouldn't mind opening up there gun and share what you see different over the original OEM parts, and Pic's would be great. Thanks Up Front

Has anyone succeed in eliminating all the pre-travel of a factory Glock trigger while still keeping all 3 of the safeties functioning. With gunsmiths like Chariie Vanek, and Johnny Glock clams of that's what there selling (a modified factory trigger). I thought its possible for the do it yourself-ers to drill, tap, and install a few small Allen screws on there own trigger housing, and there trigger pads accomplishing pretty much the same thing. I would like to see what exactly you've done The key issue for me is in keeping all 3 of safeties functioning without the pre-travel

Try to Barrow, or even Buy a heaver buffer $30 it will slow down the cycling of the bolt. The spent brass is hitting the deflector hard.

Thanks johnsons 1480; for the link. I'll be needing some shells soon

Thanks for your input; I'm now to the point of trying cheap triggers with simple mods. Hence adding ( JP springs kit) to a RRA 2 stage match trigger, and was trying to put this Idea to rest with either positive, or negative results from first hand experience.

Any body have any luck running a two stage RRA trigger with JP yellow springs.

Thanks Guys; I'm new to semi auto shotguns, and the dumbest question is the one I didn't ask

Thanks Steve RA; I've played with the trigger so much I forgot what it was originally. I did the MOA Precision hammer modification to my trigger only because I installed Taran Tactical trigger springs kit , and was concerned about reliability issue on a 4 lb trigger . There is a definite spot that can be heard and seen when you resting the trigger by hand. The movement you see is the hole in the trigger hammer its over sized and probably designed that way

Would someone mind measuring the amount of travel they have in there factory trigger until it breaks, and the amount of return travel to a reset. Thanks up front

If you say so, I do like the rear XS sight

The Front Range; I'll follow your lead, and order oniine, Gun shops look at you :surprise:huh. TomPow try what Jesse suggested first, I did it works great, and doesn't cost $100. There is a new post all about XS rear sight and who can install one for you.

Went out hunting today looking for the elusive Low velocity 1300 -2 3/4 -Shotgun Slug its tough going. All I ended up with was Federal Truball low recoil 1300FPS, Remington Manage recoil 1200, Fiochi 1oz.low recoil 1150, that's it for around town. This is a challenge in and of it self. lol

How or What : do you use to Clean the inside of your shotguns magazine tube any certain liquid cleaners, or tools, type of bore brush you find useful. What lubricants do you use in your shotguns magazine tube, on your spring ,and Fowler, also the threaded area of a magazine tube extension ? I Just tried Graphite ,but read on line that its not good for aluminum, and Nordic said there Fowler are No longer Teflon coated.

caz41; Why not call Taran Tactical see if what he's saying match up with what you want. A custom gun should match up to you.

Thanks Guys; Depending on the individual Gun, It appears (1300 to 1350 FPS ) is the minimum velocity for reliable cycling. Any thing less in velocity is hit or miss on cycling, but still worth trying. Guys has any of the slugs you've recommended or have shot shown constantly good accuracy out to 100 yards I'm talking group size not POA / POI `

NickO I was trying to figure out based on the different brands of (Slugs) that others are using . Whether that's 1300, 1500, or 1600 FPS "OUCH" that would run reliably in a Stoeger M3K. Granted there are differences between shotguns, but The over GOAL would be reducing the amount of "Felt recoil"= Faster sight acquisition.