legion85

Genius. I have had this happen to me twice and both times it was a stage ender. First time was with freedom munitions and second time was with reloads which had imt and fm marked cases mixed in. Im going to try my best to check my ammo for stepped cases, but I really appreciate this information.

Not sure; He put what he thought was best on there. It has worked out for me.

Didn't need to, but changed them out proactively. The benelli parts appeared much more high quality. More like a remnelli now.

I got my lifter from C-rums, and then removed the edge from the extractor cut. I've been running it for 2 years and haven't had a single round caught on that edge. I also had Jeff install an XS Rear Sight on the barrel. Top Notch.

This is what I've installed in mine. I also found it necessary to take the edge off the extractor cut, and to shave the shell latch for easier loading. For Chokes, I use Remington Probores and never had an issue. C-Rums Welded Lifter C-Rums Install XS Sight Roulette Tactical +2 End Cap (+10 Total) Benelli Firing Pin Spring Benelli Firing Pin Benelli Locking Head Pin Benelli Hammer Spring Benelli Hammer

This is what I replaced on mine. Benelli Firing Pin Spring Benelli Firing Pin Benelli Locking Head Pin Benelli Hammer Spring Benelli Hammer Benelli Extractor (Not Installed)

I got DQ'd once because my pistol fell out of my holster while I was running full speed with a shotgun. I decided that it would never happen again. I went with a Bladetech WRS Level 2 Duty Holster. I have it on a tek-lok connected to a TMMS. It also came with a leg rig with TMMS.

For those who like pictures....I wouldn't have believed it unless I pulled it out myself.

FIXED!!!!! I called JP today and spoke with Dustin. I walked him through everything that I had done, and we just talked about everything it could have been. He brought up one thing that I had not considered at all (due to my lack of knowledge of what the gas does once it hits the gas key)....to check the gas key for a blockage. I checked the gas key to see if it was loose...but never considered if it was blocked. I got home and looked into the gas key and saw something in there...I couldn't tell what. I blew some air into it...and it was definitely blocked. I then filled the gas key with CLP, and stuck in a q tip. When I pulled the qtip out...the suction pulled out something that blew my mind: a PRIMER. What are the chances of that? When I think about the time it takes for the bolt to open and close during a shot....and for a primer to come out of a casing and go into the gas key....that must be less than one in a million odds. I'm assuming the rifle will function perfectly now...I'll let everyone know once I make it out to a range. Takeaways: Wasn't JP's fault. JP's Support was AWESOME. This was a crazy freak occurence. Will probably install an accuwedge and be a very happy camper.

I took the gas tube off and I was able to blow air through it I also blew air through the barrel and with the bolt in the gun, and air was going through the gas block fine as well. The gas block cannot be misaligned because of the way they installed it: with a rollpin through the gasblock and a slot in the barrel...also the rifle shot fine for the first 20 or so rounds, so I doubt it is misaligned. Gas key is fine...nothing wrong there. I didn't find an obstruction in the gas block or gas tube. The gas block is lined up correctly. I don't know what else it could be. The bolt moves back and fourth very smoothly...no difference in resistance than that in my Stag 3G. One thing I tested at the end though was air flow through my Stag 3G vs airflow through the JP gas sytem. The Stag had noticeably more air flow....but it is a wide open gas block. I opened up the adjustable gas block to wide open and the air flow was still less...but how much is up to my perception and it didn't seem like a big deal. I can't take the gas block completely off because of the way the compensator is installed....I will probably try shooting it one more time before it gets shipped back to JP. On another note...the upper and lower receiver play on the JP is very noticeable. It is more than on my Stag. I was planning on getting a JP but I don't think I will be anymore. Very disappointed. I'll let you know how customer support is...so far they respond to emails about once a day.

Bigsampson, that looks terrible. Can't believe you haven't heard back yet. Since it worked for a couple shots, I think that I'm working with an obstruction. Going to have to figure out how to take off the handguard and gasblock to see if there's debris or the bore compound causing a blockage. If the gas block isn't lined up correctly, that would be really disappointing for a new rifle that cost over 2k.

Thanks for your input Tony. This has the JP gasblock.

Hello all, looking for some help with a brand new JP rifle my brother bought that is not cycling. He took it to the range and was completing the break in process as instructed by JP which consisted of: Shoot 5 shots Swab with solvent Swab JP Bore Compound Swab with solvent Shoot 15 rounds Swab with Solvent Swab JP Bore Compound Swab with solvent *begins to fail cycling here* Shoot 15 rounds, charging every single round Swab with Solvent Swab JP Bore Compound Swab with solvent At this point, he had not touched the gas block at all. We have tried turning the gas block all the way out, and the bolt barely moves. It does not eject the round. I watched the bolt on one shot, and it moved maybe half an inch. My guess is that there is an obstruction at the gas block or in the gas tube. Any thoughts? I would like to avoid removing the hand guard and gas block. We are both pretty disappointed in the JP. Will be shooting them an email and phonecall on Monday. Thanks ahead of time for any input.

I use froglube. Cleanup has been very easy. I like that it doesn't smell bad or feel greasy.

I had something similar happen in a match once and the culprit was a long round.