1911user

That seems like a long time to me, but I'm a DIYer unless it's really serious or requires expensive machine tools like a metal lathe or mill. Did the smith say how long it would take? I'd imagine other people are also clamoring for gunsmith work to be done Right Now since the shooting season/weather is really picking up for most of the US. It'd be controversial, but interesting, to have a website or blog to keep track of how well different gunsmiths hold to promised delivery dates. I'm not volunteering to host that one BTW: Gordon rocks! and so did Ravenholm

The major difference between the ruger mk2 and buckmark is the grip angle and how they feel. Hold both at a gunshop and one will feel and point much better for you; buy that one. I say this having owned a ruger mk2 in the past and currently have had a basic buckmark for the last 5 years. Both are more accurate than I can consistently hold and the adjustable sights work fine (I recall having to locktite a pin in the ruger MK2 sight that kept wanting to "walk" out). If you disassemble the Mk2 for cleaning very much, the grip won't lock into the reciever as tight. I kept shooting mine although it could probably be tightened up with judicious peening somewhere.

He can use the same 450 powder die that was used for the 45 auto setup assuming he's still using the 450 powder measure (push-bar type). All he has to do is loosen the allen screw in the side of the die and swap powder funnels. A 550 powder die would only be needed if he has (very doubtful) upgraded to the 550 auto powder measure.

A Dillon 550 40S&W caliber conversion kit should be everything you need. The 450 and 550 presses use the same shellplates, brass buttons, and powder funnels (yes, they are caliber specific). List price is $39 for the conversion kit. You could buy it from Dillon or this website. Dillon offers several upgrades for the 450 press that ultimately make it a 550B, but I'm not sure it'd be worth the cost to for a complete upgrade to a 550B press. If you wanted a complete conversion, it might make more sense to sell the 450 on ebay and just buy a new 550B.

I've had good luck blocking all the spyware, adware, pop-up, and other useless crap that some websites want to give to every visitor. The best thing was using the Mozilla Firefox browser with pop-up blocking enabled for the last year. It works very well and I can allow selected websites to use pop-ups which are to my benefit. Over 95% of the websites I've been to work just fine with firefox. I think really hard before firing up the MS browser offering to see the other 5%; most aren't worth it and I don't go back. See www.mozilla.org for the free browser/email/newsgroup software called Firefox. I was still getting spyware and adware though especially from sites for children. I recently started using a hosts file setup to block the ad websites and haven't picked up any spyware since then. Here's a link from a mickeysoft support site of how to use a hosts file and an excellent hosts file to start with. http://www.mvps.org/winhelp2002/hosts.htm With the hosts file active, many webpages have blank holes where pictures or ads would have been shown but they couldn't get the info for some strange reason..... I also run zone-alarm (software firewall) to keep programs from accessing the internet without my explicit OK. All microsoft programs and most others have to ask "mother may I?" every time they want any internet interaction. Trusted programs are allowed free access. A hardware firewall/router is also an excellent idea and is a big help to keeping malicious things from getting into your computer especially one tied to the internet 24/7 on a high-speed connection (juicy target for spammers). Maybe this'll give an idea or two for fighting back.

I'm just getting back into USPSA and action pistol type shooting in general. I think part of the reason more people don't shoot revolvers in USPSA is that there aren't very many shooting revolvers now. There is no core social group at a USPSA match shooting revolvers regularly (unlike the 1911s, open guns, wide-body limited guns). I think a sizable part of USPSA is that it is a social gathering of pistol shooters especially at the local level. Would a newbie really want to start out as an outsider? If you show up with a common semi-auto pistol and have problems, people will probably have the experience (and spare parts, mags, ammo, mag carriers, holsters, etc.) to help out. How many people carry extra speedloaders and Safariland 333 carriers? Reloading quickly and carrying at least 6 speedloaders is another issue. Reloading every 6 shots means lots of chances for a less than perfect reload (and looking bad in a social setting). IDPA has a max of 18 shots required which greatly reduces the number of required reloads (and only 3 speedloaders may be carried) for the revolver shooter. It's been awhile since shooting any IDPA, but I recall most of the courses being 6 rounds max between a reload opportunity (revolver neutral). Also, IDPA would seem alot more inviting to someone who only had an old revolver to shoot. For someone who isn't going to get fancy and use a competition revolver, IDPA is going to look attractive. If you are shooting USPSA with a revolver and not using moonclips, then you're really behind everyone else and at even more of a disadvantage in addition to the revolver disadvantage. Most people don't keep S&W 625s or moonclip revolvers for house guns; a 6-shot K-frame S&W or similar would be alot more common IMHO. Why would someone who really wants to get into USPSA go out and buy a special revolver just for competition when they could get a semi-auto for the same (or even less) money? Without a core group of revolver shooters as kind of a nucleus, it's probably not going to happen very often. Hardcore revolver shooters are going to shoot a revolver no matter what, but most people aren't hardcore revolver shooters with multiple 625s available. Standing reloads are another roadblock. Yes, revolvers only compete against revolvers, in theory. In practice, everyone kind of mentally competes against everyone else at small, local matches. In USPSA, my experience has been that a "standing reload" is a very dirty thing and should be avoided at all costs because it kills your score. Yet, very few USPSA matches are 6-shot revolver neutral (whether this is a good thing or bad is completely seperate discussion) so only the revolver shooters have to do that dirty standing reload thing even if they don't miss and the final tally sheet drives the point home. Just looking at the roots of USPSA, it seems biased toward semi-autos from the beginning and really hasn't changed in that respect. The historical USPSA weapon is the 1911 45ACP. With higher capacity semis being the norm, there hasn't been a strong effort to keep the revolver competative; even 10 shot mags are standard in what were historically 7-8 round 1911s. Ammo capacity really is a dividing line in USPSA. Sorry to sound so negative about revolvers, but that is what the situation looks like to me. I may try to get a revolver classification this year, but it will be as a second gun; my 1911 45 comes first. I have chosen to focus on USPSA exclusively for pistol and not shoot IDPA. USPSA is just a better fit for me. MODS: if this post is not in the correct spirit for this forum, edit/delete as needed.

Ditto, although I'm getting better about switching between normal and RPN for simple calculations.

Eric, can you use an HP model 32SII for the test? It is a nice, little RPN calculator. ( http://www.voidware.com/calcs/hp32sii.htm ) I know where you could borrow one, but you aren't allowed to shoot it (RPN users can get testy without the occassional fix). I used a stoked HP41CX when enduring the EIT in 1991. In the last century, you could bring a reference book (or library) to the test and I did: one nice milk crate full of my best engineering science books (and an EIT study guide ).

I broke a decap pin/rod in a Hornady .308 FL sizing die while sizing military brass with crimped in primers. Hornady replaced the rod but suggested I buy a decapping die that was actually meant for crimped primers.

The first post at THR link (if true, looks legit) explains why AI went bankrupt. It couldn't be good having expensive new 50 cal rifles blow up. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=127455

good AR-15 link. thanks

What was the diameter of the A1 barrels? I fired a few shots through an AR-15 with an A1 barrel a decade ago and it felt like a nice, handy carbine. Recently, I picked up an HBAR A2 configured AR-15 and was amazed at how heavy it felt; my FAL or Garand wasn't that much heavier. I'm thinking about putting together an AR-15 for local 3-gun shooting, plinking, and for my kids to start learning with in a year or so. So far, the only parameters are lower cost hence iron sights, 6-position CAR stock, 20 inch barrel with 1/8-1/9 twist, a good flash suppressor, no loud muzzle brake, light overall weight preferably under 7.5 pounds, and home assembly. The only option I've seen for the barrel is having one turned down. A chrome-lined barrel and chamber would be nice. Is anyone going to be making the slimmer profile 20 inch barrels anytime soon? I've read on a ar15.com some recently and it seems like there is a demand for lighter weight AR barrels 18-20 inches long.

That stinks that they wouldn't put up a review. So, when is your version going to be out????

Eric, You could leave a review of the JARD trigger on the Midway website. Usually there are very few reviews on items so one scathing review could have a big impact. Glad you found something else that will work.

I took my sons out for the first time last year and they enjoyed it. Instead of buying them a new rifle, I bought a youth size stock for my 10/22 and changed the sights to peep sights (Williams gunsite with gold bead). Both were nice changes. Shooting from a basic rifle rest, they were having a ball with one shooting a mag while the other reloaded his mag. I did stone the hammer/trigger which reduced the trigger pull down to about 3 pounds with little creep so it was easier for them to use. They are the future; train well.

If you are in the market for Safariland C1 or C2 speedloaders to fit a K-frame S&W, here is a link to an ebayer that has a bunch and some holsters and other surplus gear for K-frames. My understanding is that this is surplus from some canadian agency. Ebay link I ordered a dozen loaders from him along with a couple of grips and a speedloader case. They arrived 2 days ago from canada (18 days transit). I'm happy with the service and he combined shipping. I paid a total of $16 for expedited groud shipping. Anyway, if you are interested in something, plan to grab it quick. The good deals were not lasting a day although he did relist a couple of items so I could buy them. I have no connection other than satisfied customer. All of the speedloaders were in good shape and worked fine. The grips were slightly used but centainly OK. The speedloader case was quite well-used, but still functional; that's OK, it was only $9 with 2 C-1 loaders. The 10 C-2 loaders for $35 is the bargain IMO. If you don't see the deal you want, email him; he was helpful to me.

Requiring use of either weak "eye" or "shoulder" seems a great way to take the fun out of a 3-gun or long-gun match. I can understand some weak-hand shooting for handguns since they only require one hand to shoot. Rifles and shotguns are 2-handed weapons and if both hands work, why switch sides other than making it artificially harder in a non-fun manner?

Employment? I was in Austin when the tech boom went bust in 2001/2002. I really miss riding my motorcycle in the Hill Country west of Austin; nice twisty roads and nice scenery. That's OK, I returned to Oklahoma and life is good again

I would start off shooting 38+P loads for minor scoring. When you get fast/accurate with that combo, then maybe move up to full .357 mag loads for major scoring if you are trying to be really competative. I'd probably just shoot minor exclusively. Another advantage to 38+P is you can use lower cost lead bullets (158 grain) at velocities where leading should not be an issue. Magnum level lead loads are going to require a harder than normal alloy and/or heavier (180 grain) bullets to prevent leading. If you are planning to shoot jacketed bullets anyway, then it comes down to recoil vs. scoring.

If TSA is working in the checked baggage area with the ticket agents, you can/will be present when TSA inspects the bags with firearms. If it has a gun, they will open it. If you are there to provide the key, they will use it and return it to you. If you can see them doing the x-ray or whatever checks, hang around until your bags are through. In that case, I don't believe you need TSA-approved locks. This was my experience with recent travel with a handgun and ammo. If they are checking the checked baggage somewhere away from the ticket counter(s), that is when TSA locks would be useful. They will cut locks to open luggage unless you are available to give them the key. I flew Southwest Airlines for 3 trips between Oklahoma City (OKC) and Los Angeles (LAX) in the past 2 months and didn't have a problem and didn't have any locks cut, but I was there for all screening. I bought a pair of cheap locks that were keyed the same. I used one lock on the hard-sided pistol case and one on the suitcase itself. Only needing 1 key made it easier. Let me know if you have further questions. My last piece of travel advice is don't buy a one-way airline ticket. That is the fast road to becoming a TSA "selectee" which means they will go through everything you pack (checked or not) thoroughly and do as much of a frisk as they can get away without obvious groping. Ladies, this is the one where they are looking for explosives in undergarments and it's damned intrusive in my opinion. If you are traveling one-way, my advice is to buy a round trip ticket and then get a refund on the unused return flight. EDIT: Another good idea is to print pages from the airlines and TSA websites that describe their firearm policies. That way if you run into someone uninformed in the process, you can show them the rules and/or ask for a supervisor's assistance.

thanks for the info. That timer has seen a bit of use. I like the electrical tape....

I like to reload sitting down, so the strong mount would raise the press too high for my use. If everything is at benchtop level, then you don't need to add brackets and bins to have components easily available. I do install presses bit differenetly than most in that I mount the 550 to a 30 inch long piece of 1x12 wood (press attaches to middle of 11.5 inch wide end). I use 2-3 small c-clamps to hold the 1x12 down onto a desk, bench, or even the kitchen table. I normally don't leave a press setup year-round. Instead, I reload in batches and setup the press when needed. The board probably does some of the force-spreading that a strong-mount would do without adding height issues.

IDPA restricts the amount of mags/ammo carriers you can carry. I'm not suggesting any such restriction. Exactly where would people in this "carry" division be allowed to carry spare mags and speedloaders?

Several months ago (before any hint of rulebook changes), I looked at the IDPA rules and decided that I did not want to play their game. If others want to play it, I wish them success and fun. IPDA revolver shooters are allowed to carry only 2 speedloaders immediately in front of the holster (no gaps) and 1 additional speedloader behind the holster or behind the centerline on the other side. Carrying 4-5 speedloaders in this manner would make for some challenging reloads and unhappy revolver shooters.

How hard/slow is it to change the par time on a Pact Club timer? I like the idea of reducing par times during dry fire sessions and would probably buy Steve Anderson's book. I know the MK4 would be easier to change, but the $100 difference is a factor and I'll probably be doing some local RO work using it at USPSA-style steel matches. It would be my only timer.