Kaskillo

Mine does not have it....I guess PW removes it before shipping for obvious reasons. The single phase motor that PW uses for the Case Pro auto drive is too small and it overheats. That is the only flaw I see with that system......it is too slow as well. That's why I like the bigger 3ph motor that you can run for hours and control speed as you wish.

It is a micro switch that will activate and send a signal to the GS2 VFD to shut down the motor if the decapping rod is pushed up by a stubborn crimped primer, Berdan primer or a bent pin etc. I am NOT affiliated to Craig in any way.....I just like stuff that works. You can make it with a set collar and weld a steel bar to the side, then drill/tap 2x holes for the microswitch. Many ways to do it. The aluminum billet looks cool!

Here is the video

Redding is the way to go.....it is accurate and easy to adjust.

I used the traditional mecahnical counter but that aluminum actuating arm bends easy. Micro switch at the end of the sizing stroke works a LOT better. Yes you need a digital counter and power supply

9mm and 38 Super require different Case Pro sizing dies. Yes you have to full size after roll size with Case Pro 100. You reloading press will run a LOT smoother.

This is the best way to rough cut 300BLK.

Where?

Check for proper fit all the way in (yellow tip) Inspect inside of aluminum tube (small tiny dust spec) Try the jaming primer on another "working" tube setup.

You can't go wrong with Dillon's CS. As much as I love my 1050's but it is hard to get rid of my 650 because of the "NO BS" warranty.

Xtreme 124gr plated dillon light crimp. You will see a "ring" on the coating but NEVER a cut thru it.

Make sure your dies are clean and burr free, then try again and report.

I load LC Cracked necks are more common than "loose" primer pockets.

Sheridan slotted for rifle is the best 556/222 and 308, 300blk Now for pistol I use dillon. 9mm, 40 S&W, 380, 45 acp

You have to get it once you see it in stock.....if you think twice you wont get it.

.556 brass is thicker and can load hotter .223 brass is thinner Same head stamp should make more consistent ammo.

Never tried the hot glue mod but it sounds like it should work.

I use corn cob to polish my brass after final wet tumbling. My medial last a long tine sine the brass is already clean. I won't bother washing walnut/corn media, just dump it and get new media. It is NOT that expensive. Remember that once the media turns "rounded" it will take longer to do its job.

If you don't have a lathe or mill just get the Redding competition seating die. It works for me 99% of the time.

Primers are the biggest issue on the 1050. If you go pass decaping and primer seating you are good to GO!!!! I ALWAYS start with pre sized brass (Push-thru or roll sized).

2x 1050s one manual and one with auto drive. 1x 650. 1x single stage for precision loading. Here is my manual 1050 and 650. I am building a new bench for all presses and case pro.

I have used Brian and service is top of the line....happy loading!

I suggest get the whole set per caliber. Easier and quicker.

I load mixed 9mm brass and you can feel the difference when you pull the handle.....need to sort by stamp

Mitutoyo HF for a quick NON critical measurement. Always on top of my bench