357454

I purchased my 610 about a year ago, paid dearly for it, I figure I should be able to buy a second for @ $800. Great guns, mine is one of the most accurate revolvers I own.

Thanks for the tip, I will pick one up in the next few days!

I have had equally good results with the BBI 160 and the Blue 147 (which averages @ 149 grains) The Blue bullets require more powder for the same power factor (I like VV320), Both are clean burning and more accurate than I when trying to go fast. I have also heard good things about Revolver Supply's 147s, other than color and perhaps alloy they look identical to the Blue bullet.

Received word from Remington, they are not offering 38 Short Colt for sale as components. On to plan 2 !

Most of my cases have been reloaded more then ten times, some certainly exceed twenty reloads, thus my concern about mixing brass. I have contacted Remington and am waiting on a response.

I will give Remington a call on Monday, the issue of fit is somewhat overrated, when I first purchased an 8 shot I found that RP brass worked very well. After I switched to Short Colts I use a combination of Starline only and those I purchased for the RP Brass, I mix both on my holders and can not tell the difference. Yes the RP Brass will not fit in the Starline Holders however I have a sufficient quantity to complete almost any match without needing more. If Remington will not sell brass only I will have to invest some time into marking the old brass to differentiate it from a new batch. The idea of separating old and new sounds great until you inadvertently mix them.

My latest batch of 38 short colt brass from Starline is starting to split after many reloads, Does anyone know of a source for new Brass other than Starline? I am looking for something that can readily be identified as new brass which I will shoot at major matches and use up the life of my existing brass at local shoots? My process is not thorough enough to separate the cases before cleaning and reloading!

Thanks Pat: I picked up a spare

I have been firing 38 Short Colt Brass for a few years and am starting to get a few split cases, the last time this happened I purchased new brass and marked the old brass by filing a notch in the rim. I contacted Starline and inquired about having a special batch manufactured with a batch identifier on the head stamp. Was told minimum order was 100,000 pieces at @ 13.00 per hundred and a $1,000 charge for a special stamp. Am I the only one interested in a Batch identifier? If you are interested post a reply and perhaps we can put something together.

A viable option is to have your powder funnel turned down .002, I did this to mine, the increased pressure on the bullets along with a slight roll crimp keeps them in place.

Forgot to mention you might check out the Smith & Wesson Forum site, there are a lot of experienced Revolversmiths on their site who may have additional information.

I have owned a few well used guns where the trigger pin became loose in the frame, one was sent to S&W for replacement, the second is still running fine with over 20,000 rounds thru it gun, unless the grooves are interfering with your trigger pull, I would lubricate them and shoot the gun. If the wear is affecting your trigger pull, at one time S&W would sell a replacement stud that could be replaced by a competent Gunsmith, as your gun is stainless it would be fairly easy to remove the old pin , press in a new one, stake it in and refinish the outside of the frame. A call to their customer service would let you know if a replacement stud is still available.

Not sure about Smith’s I am sure you can get coffee to go at Casanlanca, there is a donut shop at the Hotel, may not be open at 6:00am though.

The Hotels have 24 hour restaurants, there is also a MC Donalds on the West side of town near the Casablance.

When you mentioned putting a shim on the Yoke, exactly where did you put it? There is one where the yoke goes into the frame, this increases headspace, thus reducing the firing pin blow, there is also one that goes into the cylinder where the yoke is inserted into it, this pushes the cylinder towards the frame, reducing headspace and increasing firing pin blow.

Here is a pic of a very old Model 23 barrel on a 627, a friend of mine found several of these on the internet, I also found a few an Numrich gun parts, the are new factory in the white. The one shown has been semi-finished and fitted to a 627. After final testing it will receive it's final finish.

I have two of the original 6 1/2" guns and would pay a premium for another barrel, the condition would dictate the selling price, Tool guy certainly seems to be in the ballpark with his recommendation.

The ratchets should not be contacting the frame, there is a boss on the end that acts as a bearing surface, do you have a tool to verify the crane alignment? If not a local gunsmith should have one and can check the alignment if a few minutes.

If your extractor rod is bent enough to cause the problems you are experiencing you should be able to see the end of the extractor rod wobble when spinning the cylinder with it open. This can be cured by straightening the extractor rod. Generally if you have higher trigger pull on a few cylinders it is because the ratchet needs to be adjusted for proper fit to the hand by thinning it, this condition normally has correct timing. If you have cylinders that do not lock up, this is because the hand is too thin and will need to be replaced and proprerly fit.

I know the early 929s had a hollow firing pin, is it possible the later models used a solid pin? The grove and profile look very similar.

The Apex firing pins I have do not have a groove around the OD! The one in pic appears to be hollow?

Interesting, the original Cylinder and slide firing pins were .510 and did not have the ring on them. Thanks for the info. I have been using APEX and was surprised when this firing pin worked better in the 617 no I am on s quest for something better. Has anyone tried the TKs?

I found a firing pin in my spare parts kit today and would like help identifying it, it is for a S&W Revolver with the new style frame mounted firing pin, this sample is .499 long has a rounder striking face than an Apex and has a ring around the hammer end. I installed this one today in a 617 and was able to lower the double action pull by about 1/2 pound with much more reliable ignition. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I have found the best way to "Test fire a gun with primers only is to hold the gun Muzzle up and test fire, this way you are striking the primer and the case has to move forward a few thousandths before the primer ignites requiring a heaver hammer strike than pointing the gun down or horizontal. I put a towel over the muzzle to soften the noise and keep the ceiling clean, IF you are doing extensive test firing with primers only you can increase the diameter of the flash hole in the brass, this will reduce the primer set back on an unloaded cartridge. Be sure to mark the cases and do not use them for loaded ammo, I drill a hole in the side of the case as a reminder. IF you do not want to waste cases a squib rod can be used to re-seat the fired primer, the gun will then function normally until you fire the next primer.