357454
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Everything posted by 357454
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Nice build! I can almost hear my 617 begging for a trip to the range! How much lower on double action did the Apex hammer allow you to go?
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Pics of my pin loads
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Our local range runs a man on man match, 5 pins each at 10 yards with the pins set near the front of a 36" deep 96" wide steel table, first five pins on the floor wins. most weeks are outlaw, any handgun allowed, One week per month you are limited to iron sights only. I fire a 440 grain out of my 500 loaded to 1200 fps when I want to make a lot of noise, 240 grains SWC out of my 44, 255 SWV or 260 gr flat point out of the 45 and 240 grain in a 38 special case out of my 627s. Will submit pics after I resize them
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Your 327 will use the same moonclips as the 627, I have tried several vendors/manufacturers and have found Hearthco and TK Custom to be the best. You will have the greatest success settling on one brand of Brass then getting moonclips to match, I found out the hard way many years ago and now have two sets, one for RP brass (I started with 38 special) and a set for Starline when I converted to short colts.
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Thanks for the pics, I think this would be a great option for my 4" 627.
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Any chance I can get a picture of your comp, how does it mount to the barrel?
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Thanks very much for the link, looks like my 627 may be taking a trip to magnaport.
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My hopes are to find a load/comp design that will allow me to pick up a few extra points then I happen to shoot a C or D. As I normally shoot 160 grn bullets my hopes are that with a lighter bullet and more powder I can get some muzzle rise reduction similar to what you see with an open gun.
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Are you firing these loads thru a comp? If so is there a noticeable reduction in muzzle rise?
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The comp appears to have been modified to S&Ws Power Port Design, while I have fired a few 44s with this design I did not notice much difference in muzzle flip, however I was using heavy bullets with 2400 powder.
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Due to a dismal revolver turn out at local USPSA matches I am considering using my 627 V comp in open. I am looking for suggestions regarding major power factor load data that will make the stock comp work as well as possible. I am also interested in either modifying the comp or building a new one. Any info you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
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I inspected the 625 last week, found the cylinder stop was riding too far forward on the cylinder, installed one that was slightly longer in length which now tracks in the center of the cylinder cut. Will find out this weekend if this solved the problem. For what it's worth the cylinder involved did not have a burr on the leading edge of the notch.
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Early this spring I picked up a Model 28 6" I plan on using for local steel matches where you are limited to Six Rounds, the gun came with a Davis Leather Company Holster that appears similar to the Safariland 002, Any idea what the holster may be worth? Or should I use it for my Classic revolver?
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A local shooter is experiencing the same problems on a nearly new 625 PC. I advised him to inspect the cylinder stop spring and smooth out his trigger pull, he was pulling the trigger very hard and fast when the sites we on target rather than a smooth pull. He was able to get a few skips with an empty cylinder, hopefully a new spring and deburring will solve the problem.
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I have one of the few 6 1/2" guns and really like the extra sight radius. If the 929 barrel is long enough to fi into a 627 it would be a great option. A second option would be to find a 6" barrel from a model 27 or 28, the locking bolt would need to be modified or a yoke mounted detent installed.
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You might want to post this on the Smith @ Wesson forum, it seems no one here has any info.
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S&W offered the Model 14 with a Nickel finish, they are somewhat rare, this could be one of them. The gold washed Hammer ,Trigger and cylinder release are (something else)! Nice Buy. b
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Do you have a rod to check yoke alignment? The center pin may not be properly aligned!
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First question I would ask is; how are you closing the cylinder, I have seen this before when a shooter uses the wrist flip popular on TV and the movies rather than closing the cylinder with a hand or finger. The wrist flip closes the cylinder too fast and the center pin skips over the hole in the frame, this will also cause the Yoke to bend.
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Loading block for L frame and modified Comp 3 Speedloaders
357454 replied to 357454's topic in Revolver Forum
Thanks: I had looked at these, do you know if he sells the block only, I do not need the case. -
Loading block for L frame and modified Comp 3 Speedloaders
357454 replied to 357454's topic in Revolver Forum
The Safariland block I have is stamped L frame , when I push the top of the comp 3 down the holes are too tight and will not allow the center piece to rotate and secure the rounds. Perhaps it was mismarked and was made for the K frame? -
I am looking for recommendations for loading blocks for Safariland Comp 3 speed loaders and S&W L frame revolvers. I have a Safariland L frame loading block as well as a five star neither will load the Comp 3s as they do not allow the cartridges to spread on the bottom. Recommendations appreciated.
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I purchased a small diameter diamond cut off wheel from Harbor freight, there were three in a package for less than 15.00, they work great and create less heat then a standard cut off wheel. If you want the option to cock the hammer you could thin and shorten the hammer spur, it will reduce the weight a bit for quicker hammer fall.
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I have a 617 10 shot and love it, if the S&W is a late model it should already be drilled and tapped for an optic mount, there should be three holes in the top strap under the rear sight. They can be seen by opening the cylinder and looking at the bottom of the top strap. Several manufacturers offer mounts. While my gun is a Six inch if I were to do it again I would opt for the 4", easier to carry and just as accurate as the 6.
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I traded my 929 for another 627 the new gun allows for increased bullet weight and power factor options along with increased accuracy. Don't miss the 929 at all.
