shel6977

I can't be the only one that's had this issue so I thought I would ask. I have a pair Oakley shooting glasses with g30 lenses and I have some over spray from the wind when painting steel. How do you get this off without scratching the lenses? Goo be gone with a microfiber towel?

I used RMR plated before I found xtreme plated bullets. Honestly, I will use whichever I have available between the two. Both are great for the price in my opinion.

I was in the same boat about a year ago. I'm 29 and wished I would have found the sport 15 years ago. Only downside is I think I found the only hobby more expensive than golf...

I started shooting USPSA last April and am classified C in production. Last year, I didn't really shoot outside of weekly matches. Late last fall I bought one of Ben Stoegers dry fire books and used it off and on until the weather turned cold here in Iowa and really haven't live fired to see if there are improvements. Since about Christmas I have stuck to 6 or 7 days a week 15-20 minutes a day dry fire but with out the live fire, don't know if I have gained anything yet. I plan on shooting both single stack and production this year and am hoping to at least get to B in production if not both classes. I don't know if this is realistic or not yet but those are my goals for the year.

The only time this has happened to me is when a bunch of crud from the old primers gets under the slide and it won't come all the way back to grab a primer. I just take it all apart and clean really well. I've heard of some using a powdered graphite as a lube but have never seen a need personally if you keep the primer slide clean.

I learned this practicing on some bar stock. I'm thinking it will be about 3 days when it's all said and done when I get up the nerve to do it.

I like bullseye for those 3 as well as 38 special.

I use 3.3 gr bullseye at 1.150 w/ xtreme 147gr rn out of my m&p pro 5" at 131pf.

Well I would agree on skateboard tape not belonging on a 1911 just thought I would ask. I figure if I screw it up the checkering that bad, then I would use grip tape. I will press on practicing when my practice frame gets here and then will move onto the real one.

Thanks for the pictures and I'm excited to see the video. I was talking to a gunsmith today and was advised on using grip tape as opposed to hand checkering on my own due to the silica in cast receivers that tear up checkering files. Did you have any issues with this when you did your Ruger frame?

If you think about it, I'm really interested in seeing how you do the first cut to put a wire into that acts as your vertical stop. Come to think of it, I'm interested to see it all...

Awesome...I will be ordering today and I'm sure I'll have more questions the further I go with this. Thanks.

Sorry for the delay on this thread. I will order a practice frame from caspian this week but was wondering if you got the carbon frame or the stainless frame to practice on from caspian?

I don't shoot IDPA but I use Kytex for USPSA production. I don't think you can wrong with either. I've never heard a bad thing about ready tactical pouches.

What is the discount at SC for Enos members?

Can anyone tell me how hard a investment cast stainless is versus stainless bar stock? I've been doing some practicing on aluminum square stock first then steel square stock then aluminum and steel 3/4" round stock and that went ok so I proceeded to 3/4" round stainless and boy that was miserable. I'm assuming investment cast, which I believe Ruger 1911s are, have to be softer and easier to work with than straight stainless. Is this correct or is it just as hard?

Some people swear by tite group or wsf or fill in the blank for one caliber and something else in another. I've used different powders for different calibers and what I have come up with is Bullseye for all calibers for me. I reload with Bullseye in 9mm, 38, 40, and 45. It meters great and I no longer keep multiple pistol powder around. That being said I'm sure there are better powders for different calibers but for me it's so much easier this way. Before settling on Bullseye I tinkered with universal, power pistol, unique, and titegroup in different calibers.

Hopefully these belts work for you. I emailed FBC a couple days ago and have not received a response. I'm in need to another belt and liked the look of the FBC but w/o a answer I guess I will be searching elsewhere.

If you come up with a price I'd probably be interested. Shoot me a pm when you get time.

What style of riffler file do you all recommend? Midway only sells one I think and brownells sells a couple different ones

That checkering looks great and this is exactly what I want to do. What is the point of undercutting the trigger guard like that? Also, what are you using as a block to put it in the vise? Thanks for the pictures, that is a big help. I was thinking of using some 3/4" x 4" bar stock and then maybe some 3/4" round stock to practice on the curves but if the practice frames are that cheap, it's well worth the money for some practice on the real thing.

The I-Shot lists all of their range bags as imported. I will buy US made items over anything else when given the chance. These look like nice bags but for a imported item, it would be off my list but I'm stubborn like that I suppose.

How did you go about doing the stippling on the front strap?

Thanks for all the info so far everyone. What is the group consensus on which direction to start and why? I was looking on youtube and found a few videos of people checkering the front straps on 1911s but some went horizontal first and other went vertical first. Is there a reason to start one way or the other or does going one way easier than the going the other?

Why would you need to bead blast the frame on a stainless pistol? I was thinking using a little emery cloth on the front strap before I started to kind of smooth it all out before I begin (not that it is rough or anything) but I never thought of bead blasting it. I didn't think one would have to do anything finish wise on a all stainless gun.