shel6977

Also forgot to ask how much of a pain is it to do this on a stainless frame versus just steel?

Well these posts sound like what I was looking for. I was looking at files at Midway and Brownell's, and was wondering if anyone had any advice if a certain brand was better than another. Also, trying to decide on how many LPI. I know 30 LPI would not be enough for me but then I'm not sure what to do. I've seen a lot of good feedback on 25LPI and also 20LPI with a little emery cloth to knock down the real sharp points.

I did a search and didn't come up with what I was looking for. There were a few older threads that had some information but some where 6-8 years old so I thought I would make a new one. I'm kicking around the idea of trying to hand checker the front strap of my Ruger SR1911 for single stack. This gun being stainless adds another wrinkle into the idea but I figure if I'm going to screw something up, I would rather it be a cheaper one than a expensive one. There really isn't anyone around me that I know of that do it hand or machine so by the time I ship it, I have quite a bit of money in it. I will definitely be doing a lot of practice on a on some flat bar stock and if that goes well, I will try to practice on some round bar stock to see if I can make it work on a round surface. I think I can make up a couple jigs to use to get started on the vertical and horizontal lines. So really I would have in expenses would be a checkering fine assuming all would go well. I guess my main questions are for anyone who has done this or thought about doing it and talked themselves out of it. How did it go? What was the finished product like? Time frame to complete? Would you do it again or pay to have someone do it, or even just buy a gun that is already checkered? I've looked around and some people say to start on the vertical lines others say to start one the horizontals.....advice?

I use Volund GearWorks 2 piece belt, Comp-Tac holster, and Kytex magazine pouches. I have also used a DSG 2 piece belt which I really liked but the sizing is a pain. The mag pouches can be had for about $18 each and they have been through a season of Production and haven't had any issues. The belt ran about $75. More than some but I can't stand buying stuff from Mexico or China when there are very good items made in the USA. I think the CR Speeds are made in South Africa but can't remember. I'm just a die hard for buying US made goods even if it cost a little more than others. About a year ago I was looking for a belt that I could use for USPSA, 3 gun, and some carry and quickly found out that you can run one belt for all but it is a big pain when the two piece belts are so much easier to use.

How did you get into your profile? Did you just do a USPSA number lookup and do it from there? I have tried to reset my password everal times but I have not got a response from USPSA to give me a temporary PIN.

I reloaded on a RCBS Rock Chucker for about 8 years. This past spring I upgraded to the Dillon 550b and honestly I don't know how/why I used a single stage for so long. I still use the single stage to deprime my brass since I wet tumble my brass. I picked mine up used with extras for $400 shipped and it is the best shooting related purchase I have ever bought. I can easily reload 400-450 rounds of pistol ammunition an hour just going a nice steady pace. I could probably get up around 500 or more a hour but I would have to push myself alittle more and I don't see that being beneficial when reloading. The 550b makes good quality, consistent ammo, as I'm sure the 650 and 1050 do but I just cant justify that kind of purchase for my needs.

I use some similar to the ready tactical. They are made of by Kytex I believe.

I've gone with my support hand like I am doing a pretty firm hand shake. My strong hand is if I caught a fly in my hand, that's how hard I'm gripping. Most importantly is to try and separate the trigger pull from the grip of your strong hand.

Congrats on the purchase. I just bought one myself last spring. I don't know how I reloaded on a single stage for so long...

Thanks for the advice. I would really like to get a Para 16-40 but it's not looking like they are ever going to hit the market. That's about the only one that I could justify in a 2011 since the price goes up quite a lot to get into the 2011 platform versus a M&P or Glock and I'm not a fan of Glocks at all.

Yeah I was more wanting to know if the slide lightening did more than look good. Are there really any mods to do to a M&P for limited other than trigger work, mag well, and sights? I know its the shooter not the gun but do the plastic guns compete with all the high dollar 2011's?

I know it is legal for limited but is the any point to it if the barrel isn't ported? I know a ported barrel is not legal in limited but is there any benefit to having the slide ported?

I did yesterday saying they had a security breech and that I need to change passwords. I have tried to change passwords twice but they haven't sent me the email with a temporary pin number so I cant even log into my own account.....pretty handy.

I have been kicking around the idea of shooting some limited next season and was looking for some opinions. I have a M&P 9 Pro 5" that I shoot in production and it pulls double duty for when I shoot 3gun. I really like the look of the new Performance Center open guns. I think the only issue I would have with that gun in Limited would be the ported barrel. So I guess my thinking is that I could buy a M&P Pro 40 5" have the slide ported, put on a mag well, and I would be set for limited in 40, then when I shoot 3gun, swap my 5" 9mm upper to the 40 lower and switch base pads from 40 to 9mm magazines and I'm set. Or I could buy one of the open guns and buy non-ported barrel and run it in limited. So I guess I am looking for anyone that is doing something along these lines for some advice. Does the slide porting to anything if the barrel isn't ported? If anyone has any input, good or bad in my thinking feel free to let me know. My only other idea for limited would be to look into a 2011 in 40 but that is more money than I think I want to invest being as I just started shooting last season and am a middle of the road to high C in production.

The pocket pro and pocket pro II is what I have used personally and they are usually what I have seen at matches. They can be had now for about $100 with the Black Friday sales going on

Are you saying to completely lock out your elbows R.Elliot?

I was looking at these on ebay and I think this might be my next buy for the press.

Don't rule out TDSA in Tulsa at the US Shooting Academy. I live near Des Moines Iowa and made the trip down to Tulsa for a 2 day class this spring. Well worth the money spent to me and the drive time.

Well thanks for the kind words. I need one more classifier for classification but I'll be about a middle to high C I think. Still need a ton of work but hopefully will make some more improvements as I go.

I just got a email about these....I kind of want to try the 147gr HP but I still have a couple thousand 147gr RN I need to use up.

Don't go to slide lock! That being said, #2 for me.

Mine shot low also when I bought it. I kept the same front sight height but went to adjustable rear and that took care of my elevation issues.

Just looked. Varget is in stock at cabelas and it looks like you can buy up to 5lbs if anyone needs some.

I just bought a used 550 myself a month or so ago. It sure beats the old rock chucker. My wife wasn't quite like yours but she does like that I can spend less time loading than I had before.

I use a pair of Oakley radar path with the g30 lenses. There was a post on here just a month or so ago where a guy posted side by side and a video of Rudy Project racing red (I think) lenses and Oakley g30 lenses with a red FO front site because I was in between on what I should get for lenses color.