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I have also been looking into one. I am going to get a 15L size. This will allow me to clean other tools in the shop. Getting one with 6 transducers.

Thanks for the file, will be printing it tonight. Do you have a file for a spent primer funnel?

I had steel SB dies and stuck cases 2 times, me bad ( I swear I had plenty of lube on them), then went with Dillon carbide die and never looked back. They may cost more, but life is short, and you need to enjoy it.

Has anyone tried the "Match" in 124gr. or 121 Gr. Can you tell a difference between them and the non match ones?

Forgot to mention, whatever you decide to use, be sure you oil everything very well when they come out, the ultrasonic will remove all oil from the metal.

I have been using Simple Green for years. I keep it in an old glass peanut butter jar. Put the parts into the jar, hot water into the ultrasonic, and the jar into the hot water. Cleans great, even the front end of a SS cylinder from a revolver.

Thanks, I also put slots in the base for fine adjustment, they don't show in the photo.

Thanks for the information. Mine is a Supper 1050 GSI head, that is on my RL. It does have enough room (barley) to reset itself. For the Indexer Camming Block, I took some metal I had and made a base and attached a section of angle that I cut a grove into and mounted it (see pic). The reason for the grove was to reduce the thickens. This seems to be working. For the feed column, I am thinking about mounting a 1" tube in the space provided on the head. To that, mount a section of angle so that a leg goes out past the feed bushing (on the bushings side).. I will then take a section of 1/2" PVC pipe and "U" bolt it to this leg. Then make a funnel to insert in the PVC pipe bottom to reduce the inside diameter to what I need and have this align over the bushing. Might not be pretty, but I think it may work, do you see any problems with it? I do have a 2 questions, I am planning on using a pipe bending spring to supply the bullets from the feeder to the PVC pipe, what size is being used? (inside or outside dia.). What happens when a bullet is not set in a case and comes back around to the feed column, or do you not let it get that far and push it out thru the seating stem? Thanks

Just got a GSI head for my RL1050. It is missing the Indexer Camming Block. Called GSI and they do not have any. Could someone take a few pics of theirs and measurements and send them to me so I can try and figure out a substitute. Any tips I should be aware of in setting it up and using it? I plan on using a Mr. Bullet type feeder, but have to make a replacement feed column since it was also missing. Thanks Howard

Sitting for my 1050, been doing it for years, with an adjustable stool.

Thanks, He has his set up that it cycles on and off. My idea is that it would only go on when the micro switch is tripped at the lower part of the tube (no brass). Should I be looking at timing relays or ????? I do not know how to code the Arduino so it is not an option, but it does look nice. Thanks HG

I am also not an electrical engineer, but I think when a new piece of brass passes the top switch or sensor it would trip the relay. Can someone point us (me) to a variable timer (1-100? second) that can be started by a switch (mounted near the bottom of the tube) that would power the feeder. Idea is that the bottom switch trips and start the timer to run the feeder. You would set the timer for the shortest duration it takes to fill the tube. You would also bypass the top switch, so you are not cycling the motor. Thanks, HG

I also played with this. I got out my old darkroom timer, and plugged in the brass feeder instead of the enlarger. Set the timer for how many seconds you want it on, and pushed the button when the brass got to my low point. If it went to long, no problem, the micro switch on top just acted like it normally does. If time was not enough, tube was not filled up to the top, no big deal. My idea was to put a second micro switch on the feed tube at the low level to replace the push button. When I opened up the timer, the button is mounted to the circuit board, so I stopped at that point. Do they make an adjustable time relay that we could replace the timer with?

it inbedded the plastic rod in the drywall ceiling along with some primers, but none went thru, and the ceiling was only a few feet above the press. Did it with Winchester SPM and a 1050. Lesson learned was not to force a jam with more force .... go figure

If we are going to use the targets turning as the start, what are we going to do when the wind blows and the target moves? I have held up on running shooters because of the wind (trying for the same condition for all). So... the wind blows moving the target, you start your draw and then the targets start turning, it is going to be hard to call since the target was moving and that by definition is the start signal. It is going to be a fun time. ;-)

Earlier talk was about the elongated hole. There is no such thing as a perfect double... (unless it is on Far and Near). It is truly amazing how many shooters claim that they have a double. Yes the hole is slightly long, but that is because you were just a few steps from the target at the last position. More than once I have pulled the target and let someone else make the call. One year, we put white cardboard around the targets, was not considered a "No Shoot" but it made it very easy to find the round('s) that were off the target and see the targets. Even had a Grand Master claiming a double until I pointed out his round of on the white cardboard. Will be very interesting to see how many doubles we have this year considering that the turning target will create a hole bigger than the round,.... "and you know RO, I got all my shots on the target, it must be a double" wish I had a nickle for each time I have heard that over the years.

We tried pushing back but were told to work them in, every shooter will shoot the stage. It is amazing how big the squads are around the middle of the day..... but being fair to the shooters, it is hard to see with the sun coming up over the hill.

“There will be turning target arrays for Far and Near so as to eliminate the bottleneck of this stage and bring world class target systems to our match.” We have not had the “Botteneck” effect since we went to 5 up. That is left over from when we had 3 and 4 up. The big problem is that shooters do not want to shoot this stage first thing in the morning and do not show up. For the past few years, Jerry and I were done running shooters thru it and there were still stages being shot.

Not sure I want to RO that!.. Now I have to get that vision out of my head...

Cool, so when do we start talking about Far and Near?

Extreme makes a 160, but it is lead and will fill up your comp. Tried the Bayou's in 160 2 years ago, and it also filled up the comp. I called Extreme yesterday, no plans to make the 160 plated.

What we are trying to do is reduce / eliminate the impact motion the shell plate gets from the ball bearing hitting it. .. Treating the symptom and not the cause. To get rid of it, use a lighter ball... I purchased one off E-Bay (search on Dillon 1050), and it works great. The ball is made of a hardened plastic. Mark even put my writeup about it on his add. Easy fix for $6.75.

You may have to reduce the thickness of the lock ring by the thickness of the bearings (.035). Easy job if you have access to a lathe

Contact BMT at bmtmooner@rushmore.com, Paul can send price sheet. Randy has some pic's of them: http://www.apextactical.com/blog/index.php/gun-monkey-minute/check-these-puppies-out-new-moonerdemooner/

Do a search for BMT, it is a great loader Howard