Jimini

I agree. This is the best method. The WD-40 will make the primer inert.

this is an excellent choice. Better than the tri-glide.

Great looking blaster.

I'd like some information as well concerning Air Soft. I see them advertised but some are better that others. I also hear that some use more gas than others. Any body got some first hand experience?

I started off with a Colt Gold Cup .45 and was not competitive. I switched to a revolver with optics and wings and my score jumped into the 1500 range my first match. After a little practice I was shooting in the 1750 range. Then one day a IPSIC open gun came my way. Shooting full IPSIC loads (125 grain@1375fps) I streatched into the mid 1800. I am now looking for a .38 super auto set up to shoot Bianchi. I can't help but think that with a normal load and wings I will be able to get into the 1900's. One nice thing about the fast bullet is you don't have to lead the mover too much.

Thanks for the info on where to buy fiber optic. that helps to keep you in line with the front sight. If you are not lined up properly, the sight is not completely visable. Mushrooming the front of the optic rod does not help secure the rod becausee it is the rear of the rod that gets the most "hammer" from the recoil. It is best to use some superglue to secure the rod to the sight. That way you don't have to mushroom the rear or sight end of the rod. You don't want a big blob staring at you, just a dot.

Sell the dang thing and buy more guns.

yes, depending on the weight of the turkey. boiling oil should always be done out side! some of the best turkey cooked is deep fried! lynn The 3 min per pound rule is a guide. You should also watch the meat on the legs as the turkey gets close to being done the meat will start to shrink and pull away from the bone. Also the skin will tell as it starts to brown. Nothing finer than a fried bird. Jim Norman-Florida

Use the Lee Factory crimp die. Available for about 12 bucks. Does a full case crimp. For folks reloading 38 super (or any shell that is nearly full of powder), I discovered that moving the seater die to the powder check die position saved a lot of powder. With a nealy full case the powder check die is not necessary as you can look as you set the bullet and see that the case is nearly full. By moving the seater die over you get the bullet seated quicker avoiding spills that occur by the clicking of the detent ball.

I use the Precision Moly bullet in 185, loaded with 4.8 Gr of VV N-340 set at 1.139 OAL. I get a average speed of 912 for a PF of 168.7. It shoots good and functions the gun. I do like the N-320 as well which I have used with good results. The N-320 produces a snapper response from the gun and being old the slower push of the 340 kinda matches my style. These test loads are fired in a SV sight tracker and similar results were obtained with the STI Bull barrel. One other note, the Moly bullet has less smoke due to no lubrication, and requires less powder to make the same speed of lead or other type bullets. Plus Mike (Precision Bullets) is a nice guy. Jim Norman-Florida

I use the dillon dies on my 650 except for the Lee factory crip die. www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/dies-crimp.html The dillon dies are carbide, but you still have to lube. One point: Some dies are not as long as the dillon. You might have to mount the locking rings under the tool head. I have to do that with the Lee Factory crip die. Jim Norman-Florida

I switched to the Lee Factory crimp die. www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/dies-crimp.html It does not resize every Glock fired brass, but does a nice job on most. If you use a 650, one hint is to put the locking ring on the bottom of the tool head. That will allow you to lower the die all the way to the shell plate. Pull the bullet and recover the powder on the occasional brass that fails the gage. Jim Norman-Florida

I'm going to do a commercial for Bob L. at Brazos. I happened across a Brazos BCG Pro open gun and could not be more happy with the reliability, shootability, looks, accuracy, triggerpull, ect. I would not have bought one on purpose but the deal was good. Now, I would not buy anything else. My next gun will be another Brazos. Many of my fellow shooters have test fired the gun and all agree that it has a perfect trigger pull. I also use it to shoot NRA action pistol with success. 50 yard shots are not a problem. And with 1350 FPS you don't have to lead the mover by much. I have a friend who shoots the Brazos BCG Pro Sx which he also loves. The Sx is just louder than the Pro. We both shoot steel, NRA, and IPSIC with the same gun, load. It just works. Jim Norman-Florida

Me too. Took your advice and just ordered the pants for $10.00. Didn't want the camo, but for $10.00? Besides those ratty jeans I've been wearing with the holes, torn pockets and paint stains I just sold on ebay for 85.00. Thanks Jim

I want a 33 pound drum of N-350! How did you get a 33 pound drum of N-105? FM I bought mine from Henry Swarthout who shoots and vendors at matches in the SE. Also bought a 33 pound of n340. The price of the N105 got down to about 15.00/pound. Savings on the 340 was better. Question, I see a couple of posts that say people are using 10 grs +/- and filling the case. My 10.4 grs still has plenty of room in the case (38 Super). Am I missing something? Why do I still have room available? I have about 1/4 inch of space at 10. gr of N105. There is very little difference in terms of volumn to move to 10.4. About 6-8 flakes per .1. My point was that you can see the case is nearly full which eliminates the need for a powder checker. So I moved my seater die over next to the powder die to eliminate the spillage. I also "ride" the shell over with my finger on top and the bullet in my thumb/index. Once it clicks in place I set the bullet and seat it.

I havethe Brazos Pro series and my friend shoots the Brazos SX shortie. I shoot the n-105 and he shoots the IMR-4756. He prefers the IMR-4756 because it's less expensive and he can't tell the difference. I shoot the N105 because I have a 33 pound drum and I ain't changing or experimenting til it's gone! If there is something better I don't want to know about it. Beyond that, I love the gun, love the load, make major with 10.2 of N105 (started with 10 grains with a older batch but the new batch required a little more to stay on the + side of 165 pf). Double tap spreads at 15 yards about 3 inches average. Loading on the 650 without spillage requires moving the seater die next to the powder die. With 10 plus grains in the case you don't need no stink'in powder checker. You can see when you set the bullet that the case is almost full. So the case is filled in one stage and the bullet is set the very next stage.

You didn't mention if you have vents in the barrel. That will make a difference. The more holes you have the more gas you need. You may need to try 3n38 as well as N105. Both of these powders are slower than the 3n37 and produce more gas for the comp. The additional gas may tame your recoil. Once you get one that feels good, then it's time to tune the balance. At about 10 yards aim carefully at the a zone center and then do a double tap. Measure the difference between the two shots. If they spread out beyond the a zone, try a heavier spring and repeat the exercise changing the spring weight until you get one that feels good to you and the 2 shot groups don't spread out too much. That should give you some confidence.

I started off with the Safariland 12. It worked ok, but then I saw my friends with the CR Speed and liked it a lot better. So I bought two, one for revolver, and one for limited. Then came the open gun. Limcat stealth solved the need for two holster set-ups. Now I shoot either the open or limited from the same holster. You do have to make sure you lock it but once locked, the gun is secure.

Just a question about the UniqueTek Powder bar. I have the 650 about 15 years with the original powder dispenser. I have noticed lately that the powder weight will vary about .5 from high to low. Scrubbed and polished the powder tube, powder bar ect. Still it varies. I've talked to Dillon yesterday and they say it sounds like the powder bar is worn. My question is about whether the UniqueTek powder bar is a better choice than the Dillon?

I would never have bought his gun intentionally. Then one day I shot one. Then another day, one became available at a really good price. I bought it. Now, I would not have anything else. For me, he has the nicest trigger of any gun I have shot. There are other guns available, but I love my Brazos.

I agree. I had the same problem when I first got a 650. The most critical adjusment is the shell holder. Hold a allen wrench in the bolt while you function the machine. Tighten it up until it won't move. Then back off slightly while funtctioning the machine. When it just starts to function with no drag, raise the press while holding the allen wrench in that position to be sure it doesn't move. Tighten the set screw and you should be good to go. Now re-adjust all your dies as per the manual. Good luck

I have used the 185 Precision .40 SWC. What I like about them is you use less powder to acheive the same speed. Also, there is less smoke than a lubed lead bullet.